bhclark

I can attempt to measure it tomorrow morning...but I would say mine doesn't go down more than an inch before engaging...possible less. I do pump it 7 or 8 times to fill up the 2 bbl carb some idiot put on there in order to make it easier to start cold.

Don't know why it won't work...I tried again and get the same error message. Sorry.

A couple more things that do not seem "right" about this auction: -Sitting in a repo lot for 5 years and there's no rust? -Not sure of the mechanical operation of the top, yet it's down. If it had been down for 5 years the interior would be shot. -like you said....he doesn't know his nailhead engines..... -no one has bid on it yet...... could be an interesting find...but looks like trouble.

I need a 4 bbl carb for a '62 401 engine. The car currently has a 2 bbl carb on it and just doesn't seem right. The mounting bolts are awfully close together to fit the 2 bll, so I might need the intake manifold to go along with the 4 bbl? anyone got something usable laying around? The car does have the accellerator pedal starter thing if that matters.... Thanks!

My '59 Invicta has a '62 motor in it. If that's not depressing enough, apparently in '59 the engine temperature gauge was a thermocouple that screwed into the rear of the engine where it could measure the water temp. The '62 is much more like a '65 where the temp gauge appears electronic and mounts into the front of the engine. Question: Is it possible to modify this system to make the analog gauge on my dash work with this '62 engine? Or am I missing something completly? The thermocouple currently just sits on top of the engine and the gauge never moves from cold. Thanks!

Funny story. When I first got my 59 Invicta, I sat in the drivers seat for over 5 minutes trying to figure out where the starter was! I kept turning the key on and off and wondering what I was doing wrong! Finally, I figured well, I'll give her some gas and Whallah! It took another week to figure out that I didn't even need the key.....anyone got an ignition lock and key for a 59 buick lying around? This thing looks great with a giant truck sized "club" on it!

i've never done engine work, but I'm not above trying anything. I just know these nailheads are a little tricky. Obviously if necessary I would have to farm out the machine shop work, but my dad is a millwright and very good with "gaps" and "tolerances" so he should be able to help. It's a convertible...it'll be hard to get me to stop driving it as long as it's warm... thanks for the advice...

Is it possible I caused this myself? I do know that I had a lot of grease and oil under the car, did a degreasing to clean it up to diagnose where it was coming from and found a bad gasket with a pretty good leak on the oil pump. I cannot recall if I first noticed the smoke before or after this engine cleaning. Is it possible that water entered from this gasket leak and has caused a problem? If so, what is the cause/effect and possible solutions other than a complete rebuild? The engine is spitting out a LOT of black particles from the exhaust. Thanks!

I know how much you love these cars...here's a pic of one at the local flea market. It is listed as having been a national champ for years. Sorry the pic is so small....it's from a cell phone. Sure is an ugly brown though. covered with about an inch of dust right now it's been sitting so long.

Well, Got the new PCV valve installed, switched out the fuel filter for good measure and checked all the vacuum hoses. Everything seems to be in good shape.....well, except for the engine, that is. Drove her all night tonight, strong as a beast...can't decide whether to drive her until she breaks or put her up on blocks and go ahead and look for an engine rebuilder..... i don't want to risk catastrophic damage. That's what happened to my last wildcat, threw a rod and piston went right through the side wall of the engine! any other advice?

I too would love to see a 59buick.org website, but have no experience with HTML, etc. I would be happy to try to track down info and provide to a poster.

Thanks. It does look like the ST400. I suspect the amount of rust on the under side of the car is hindering my search for the stampings on the axle but I will search again. My main goal in ordering the kit ahead of time was to reduce down time, since it's summmer and it's a convertible. . Maybe I'll let this one wait until it's not so much convertible weather and take my time on it this fall/winter. Thanks for the info....I will check Napa. I'm trying to decide on whether I want to tackle the rear end myself. It looks a bit easier than a tranny or engine, but I dont want to screw it up!!!!

Great information! The Carburetor shop is where I did my research. I was afraid that the wrong carb might be causing the problem. I will test the theories and do some shopping for a replacement/correct carb. Any idea on where to get a carb other than Ebay? In this era, do I have to worry about the linkage lining up or will any carb designed for a 401 work just fine? Thanks!

I'm getting a good amount of smoke coming out of the oil filler cap on my 65 wildcat. I just noticed it yesterday, it must have gotten considerably worse in a short period. my question is....is this major? Rings? Complete Engine Overhaul? Can of stop smoke additive? The engine runs as strong as ever...... Help! What is my first step in diagnosing the cause? Thanks.

It hit $3.09 here in Cincinnati today. Up 50 cents overnight.

I cannot positively identify the rear axle in my 65 wildcat Convertible. According to my Detroit Iron book, the axle should be stamped with the axle code. I have cleaned off the bottom of the differential pretty good and the only thing I can find is the number 40 stamped on 1 side of the bottom of the case and what appears to be 131N near the front of the case on the bottom. There is also a stray 3 near the center, but nothing that looks like the PA or PB I was expecting. Ican post pics if that might help? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated as I need to purchase a Rebuild Kit and want to make sure I get the right one. (Can anyone tell me what the difference is with the "Timken" bearing set versus the regular one on Year One's Website....or should I get the entire Ring and Bearing kit?) Also, I am trying to identify the tranny and the only thing I can find is a plate with 493 along the top and below it BJ-65-125533. This also does not match my Detroit Iron exactly, but looks like it might be an ST400? Thanks!

Well, I've done a little more research. The carb appears to be freshly rebuilt, as it is spotless. It is a model 2980S. Here is where it gets interesting. The Invicta is a 1959. According to my research the Engine is a 1962 401 (based on the I in the engine number) The carb, according to "the carburetur shop" belongs to a 1960 364 and is a WGD vs a AFB(What does that mean?). (which explains the 364 etched in the air cleaner). So, does the carb being designed for a 364 instead of the 401 it's attached to have anything to do with my problem? My 65 wildcat wants to run away at idle.....where the 59 Invicta has to be convinced to go.....is this the 2bbl vs the 4bbl or does this have more to do with the different transmissions. (I have not crawled underneath to identify the transmissions yet)

My power steering gear reservoir in my 65 Wildcat covertible seems to be leaking.....can this be rebuilt and if so what is the process? I can't find any details in my Detroit Iron Manual. Also, oil is coming out through the oil filler cap. It doesn't seem to be fitting tightly. I tried to bend the fingers back down to hold tighter, but it seems to be spring steel and doesn't want to move. any ideas? Thanks!

I've got a 401 with a 2 bbl carter carb. The carb has what I call a flat spot. If you give it a little gas, it's okay, if you give it just a little more, it starts to stall(and frequently does under load), if you give it enough gas to hop over the flat spot, the car moves just fine.....albeit with a bit of a jerk. The carb operates the same whether the car is being driven or operated manualy. any assistance would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

Yes, Please either post pics or send us a link!

I've got a '59 Invicta that needs bumper repair as well. Are these Stainless like the rest of my trim, or are the Chrome? They are very dull, with 45 years of shopping cart damage! Any advice on an Ohio Valley/MidWestern chrome shop would be appreciated (I also need a little work done on my '65 Wildcat)! Thanks!

I am also shopping for upholstery and love the samples I received from SMS. I agree, they seem a bit pricey at $79 a yard for the Balfour cloth, but where else am I going to find it? My question is, what is a reasonable price to pay for someone to recover the seats? I need both front and rear bench seats recovered, possibly with some padding replacement due to rot. Also, is there any way to add tension back into the springs if they are sagging a bit in the drivers seat? Thanks!

I have always loved the 65 wildcats, thinking they were the most beautiful car I had ever seen. (coincidentally, my first car was a 65 wildcat, given to me by my grandfather) However, while shopping for a 65 Wildcat convertible, I ran across a 59 invicta 4dr ht and fell in love with the delta wings and that incredibly menacing grill. Well, what can I say, I bought both, and continue to look for more! a '38 is currently on my list! I do agree that the 60 buicks seem to be "muted" versions of the 59s and I could not even think about comparing the styling of the 2. Viva Buick!

I've got a '59 Invicta, but unless someone is willing to replace the engine when blows, I'm not willing to run it at anything near 140, as much as I would love too. I blew a rod that threw a piston clear through the engine wall at only 75 in my old '65 wildcat. I would agree that the car is extremely "silky" and solidly built. BTW, does anyone know a good place to find replacement interior cloth? A search on google for "cordaveen" and "balfour cloth" come up with practically nothing.