Mark Shaw

Rob, Welcome to the forum and congratulations on acquiring a prewar Buick! As Dave Corbin indicated, please let us know where you are located along with the data plate info so we can help.

Can't say enough good things about Sandy Olsen & company.

1915 Overland would be LHD.

Pull the nameplates and put them together in a frame you can hang on your wall (they don't gather dust that way). Then recycle the trophys at your next club car show.

Welcome to the forum. Headlight lenses should be no problem to find on Ebay or at a local swap meet. Tail light lenses may be a little harder to find. Post a complete list of your needs and see what happens....

Some have their split rims Zinc plated to eliminate paint damage when changing tires. Aluminum paint is commonly used too.

Rick, The Portland area chapter members (which includes several PWD members and officers,) are looking forward to hosting your caravan members for the BBQ Tuesday evening. Bring some good stories about your trip and BYOB.

I know some car club members who got together to transport their cars with one company. You could get a deal if you fill one big transport truck to reduce the expense for each car transported. You should also get a dedicated truck to arrive and depart the meet at the right times. I will check to see what company they used.

Send me an email request directly to durcodude@comcast.net and I will forward your request to a local guy who owns the Seabuscuit car. It is a 31 Buick with driving lights that move with the front wheels. I am sure he can take photos or copy literature he may have.

Dave, Good to hear from you. To answer your question, yes, Buick made their last commercial trucks in 1923. Perhaps you should restore the truck as a mate to your roadster....and you will have two very rare vehicles! Still planning to come to Seattle with your roadster??

Well if they are truly carriage lights, and they are only electric, (no oil founts or wick), they are most probably from an early electric car.

Do you mean a Curved Dash Olds?

As of 1/18/07, there appears to be some progress on the Turley burglary. Detectives called to say there has been a major "bust" of a drug/burglary ring which encompassed 3 counties in Kansas. It was said that this is the largest of this type in the history of this area. Apparently some of the stuff has already been identified as belonging to the Turley's. Verne Shirk Wichita, KS

As of 1/18/07, there appears to be some progress on the Turley burglary. Detectives called to say there has been a major "bust" of a drug/burglary ring which encompassed 3 counties in Kansas. It was said that this is the largest of this type in the history of this area. Apparently some of the stuff has already been identified as belonging to the Turley's. Verne Shirk Wichita, KS

As of 1/18/07, there appears to be some progress on the Turley burglary. Detectives called to say there has been a major "bust" of a drug/burglary ring which encompassed 3 counties in Kansas. It was said that this is the largest of this type in the history of this area. Apparently some of the stuff has already been identified as belonging to the Turley's. Verne Shirk Wichita, KS

Look up my buddy Terry Weigand in the BCA directory. He knows a place that does this kind of plating.

Try These: http://www.bobsautomobilia.com/cgi-local/shop.pl/page=estore.html http://www.restorationstuff.com/

Please post photos and your location and phone number. thanks,

Your squeak may be the felloe rubbing against the split rim. Double check all the lugs & lug nuts to be sure they are tight. If you do have a loose spoke, it can be loose inside the hub (rubbing against the next spoke), or on the outer end where it enters the felloe. The hub squeak can be fixed by inserting hack saw blade spacers between the spokes. Be careful to add these spacers evenly so your hub stays centered. Fixing a felloe squeak for good is relatively easy if you can get some "wood Swell" from a good hardware store or furniture restoration supply house. Drill a 1/4" hole in the end of the offending spoke and put just a couple of drops of "wood Swell" into the hole and leave it overnight. This stuff actually expands the wood fibers to make the spoke tight again. Fill the hole with linseed oil and cap it with a spent .22 shell casing. The oil will replenish the wood so it doesn't dry out and get loose.

Good question! There are several stories about RH or LH drive vehicles. Some say British influence caused early cars to be RH drive. Others say that RH drive was the same as driving horses pulling wagons and was familiar to potential customers. Others still say that watching the ditch was more important than oncoming traffic. I am no Ford expert, but I understand that Fords were about the only LH drive cars made in the US prior to 1914. Maybe it was the popularity of the Ford that caused others to change to LH drive?

Below is an updated list of what we know of that is gone. 20' Car Trailer with wood floor, red in color Pair of Solar 41 brass sidelights with magnifier lenses - restored Pair of Solar 41A brass sidelights - restored 1911-12 E&J brass head, side & taillights - complete set, new Pair of Dietz "flat-back" sidelights - restored Gray & Davis Bullet taillight - restored Small side mount acetylene generator - restored Steering Column single twist horn without bracket - restored Approx. 1 dozen "no-name" headlights 1911-13 era unrestored Model T engine/transmission - assembled - 1916 casting date - unrestored Powerglide Transmission - aluminum case unrestored Rusty front & rear axle with spindles & hub - wood spoke hubs 1910? - unknown brand "Fordeaze" (sp?) Model T shock absorbers - front & rear 1912 REO rear fenders and carburetor 6 large light blue Rubbermaid tubs full of swap meet vendor items - mostly Vintique items for brass era cars with prices written on the box with felt tip marker. New Motometers; radiator caps, patent plates, hubcaps for Model T's; round & rectangular mirrors; Model A Quail radiator caps; bulb horn set-ups; brass speedometer cables; cloisonne radiator emblems for Chevrolet, Durant, Star, & others; brass scripts for REO, Buick, Cadillac, and Chevrolet that had been cut out by water jet but not finished yet; and new 1-cyl. REO hubcaps. Castings: Neverout Tag Brackets; early Cadillac & REO step plates; fender irons for 1912 Model T rear; brake, reverse pedals for early REO & Cadillac; rear corner frame brackets for early Model T; head, side & taillight forks off of various early cars; steering wheel spiders. Most pieces have prices written on them. 2 plywood boxes - 3' square, 2' high misc. Unrestored Model T parts Swap meet plywood tables with black/yellow plastic sawhorses 5 hp vertical Craftsman air compressor - red Approx. 2 hp horizontal Craftsman air compressor - green 2 Craftsman paint guns, 1 Binks paint gun, 1 touch-up gun 3 Craftsman rolling tool chests with tools - one with a lot of taps & ties, metal lathe tools, dial indicators, micrometers up to 5", calipers Skill saw, drill motors, air staplers, air sanders, polisher/buffer, various Meguiars polishing compounds, extension cords John Deere riding lawnmower Model _x85 and weed eater Verne Shirk Wichita, KS Keep your eyes pealed...

Below is an updated list of what we know of that is gone. 20' Car Trailer with wood floor, red in color Pair of Solar 41 brass sidelights with magnifier lenses - restored Pair of Solar 41A brass sidelights - restored 1911-12 E&J brass head, side & taillights - complete set, new Pair of Dietz "flat-back" sidelights - restored Gray & Davis Bullet taillight - restored Small side mount acetylene generator - restored Steering Column single twist horn without bracket - restored Approx. 1 dozen "no-name" headlights 1911-13 era unrestored Model T engine/transmission - assembled - 1916 casting date - unrestored Powerglide Transmission - aluminum case unrestored Rusty front & rear axle with spindles & hub - wood spoke hubs 1910? - unknown brand "Fordeaze" (sp?) Model T shock absorbers - front & rear 1912 REO rear fenders and carburetor 6 large light blue Rubbermaid tubs full of swap meet vendor items - mostly Vintique items for brass era cars with prices written on the box with felt tip marker. New Motometers; radiator caps, patent plates, hubcaps for Model T's; round & rectangular mirrors; Model A Quail radiator caps; bulb horn set-ups; brass speedometer cables; cloisonne radiator emblems for Chevrolet, Durant, Star, & others; brass scripts for REO, Buick, Cadillac, and Chevrolet that had been cut out by water jet but not finished yet; and new 1-cyl. REO hubcaps. Castings: Neverout Tag Brackets; early Cadillac & REO step plates; fender irons for 1912 Model T rear; brake, reverse pedals for early REO & Cadillac; rear corner frame brackets for early Model T; head, side & taillight forks off of various early cars; steering wheel spiders. Most pieces have prices written on them. 2 plywood boxes - 3' square, 2' high misc. Unrestored Model T parts Swap meet plywood tables with black/yellow plastic sawhorses 5 hp vertical Craftsman air compressor - red Approx. 2 hp horizontal Craftsman air compressor - green 2 Craftsman paint guns, 1 Binks paint gun, 1 touch-up gun 3 Craftsman rolling tool chests with tools - one with a lot of taps & ties, metal lathe tools, dial indicators, micrometers up to 5", calipers Skill saw, drill motors, air staplers, air sanders, polisher/buffer, various Meguiars polishing compounds, extension cords John Deere riding lawnmower Model _x85 and weed eater Verne Shirk Wichita, KS Keep your eyes pealed....

Update: Below is an updated list of what we know of that is gone. 20' Car Trailer with wood floor, red in color Pair of Solar 41 brass sidelights with magnifier lenses - restored Pair of Solar 41A brass sidelights - restored 1911-12 E&J brass head, side & taillights - complete set, new Pair of Dietz "flat-back" sidelights - restored Gray & Davis Bullet taillight - restored Small side mount acetylene generator - restored Steering Column single twist horn without bracket - restored Approx. 1 dozen "no-name" headlights 1911-13 era unrestored Model T engine/transmission - assembled - 1916 casting date - unrestored Powerglide Transmission - aluminum case unrestored Rusty front & rear axle with spindles & hub - wood spoke hubs 1910? - unknown brand "Fordeaze" (sp?) Model T shock absorbers - front & rear 1912 REO rear fenders and carburetor 6 large light blue Rubbermaid tubs full of swap meet vendor items - mostly Vintique items for brass era cars with prices written on the box with felt tip marker. New Motometers; radiator caps, patent plates, hubcaps for Model T's; round & rectangular mirrors; Model A Quail radiator caps; bulb horn set-ups; brass speedometer cables; cloisonne radiator emblems for Chevrolet, Durant, Star, & others; brass scripts for REO, Buick, Cadillac, and Chevrolet that had been cut out by water jet but not finished yet; and new 1-cyl. REO hubcaps. Castings: Neverout Tag Brackets; early Cadillac & REO step plates; fender irons for 1912 Model T rear; brake, reverse pedals for early REO & Cadillac; rear corner frame brackets for early Model T; head, side & taillight forks off of various early cars; steering wheel spiders. Most pieces have prices written on them. 2 plywood boxes - 3' square, 2' high misc. Unrestored Model T parts Swap meet plywood tables with black/yellow plastic sawhorses 5 hp vertical Craftsman air compressor - red Approx. 2 hp horizontal Craftsman air compressor - green 2 Craftsman paint guns, 1 Binks paint gun, 1 touch-up gun 3 Craftsman rolling tool chests with tools - one with a lot of taps & ties, metal lathe tools, dial indicators, micrometers up to 5", calipers Skill saw, drill motors, air staplers, air sanders, polisher/buffer, various Meguiars polishing compounds, extension cords John Deere riding lawnmower Model _x85 and weed eater Verne Shirk Wichita, KS Keep your eyes pealed....

I have one from a 1912 Buick. What car is this for?

1938 was the last year for rumble seats in any Buick. Opera seats were offered in the "Opera Coupe" rather than a rumble seat roadster in 1939.