alsfarms

Picture 4: sad condition of original brake drum (badly pitted)

Picture 3: rear wheel with original brake drum in place

Picture 2: front side of rear wheel

This has been a very busy summer, likely for most of us. I thought I would post a few pictures of one of the new rewooded rear wheels for this Locomobile. I also had new cast iron brake drums poured and they turned out nice. I am going to be very cautious as I fit the new brake drums to the wheel spokes so that I maintain a very good degree of concentricity. Here are a few pictures. Al Picture 1: rear view of new rear wheel

Even a few pieces of such an engine would be nice to display with the racer. Who knows, maybe you could run down the original drawings/patterns or core boxes and build one. Al

I have ridden in a Locomobile "H" and several Locomobile "L" models (as well as a couple "48 and"38" models), but I have not been fortunate enough to get a ride in an "I". (Maybe someday I will be in the right place at the right time). The "H", with the progressive transmission, to me, was a handful! I am very impressed at the performance and smoothness of the "L" Models. Finally, after way to many years, I have the engine for my "L" fully rebuilt, (chronicled elsewhere in these forums). The engine does run very strong and responsive, I am impressed. I decided to run a Delco two spark distributor in place of the "Make and Break" ignition system my car would have had originally. I don't have all the parts for "Make and Break" and decided to go for a better system, hence the Delco. The engine does behave very responsively and does run smooth with the Delco. It will be nice to get my car back together and on the road. Maybe someone else, here, can make a good comparison of the "I" as compared to the "L" Locomobile from a performance point of view. I am curious about such a comparison myself. Al

Nice support information on the Dreyer Special! To bad a Duesenberg engine can't be located! Al

Hello Mike, It appears that you have your chuck loose and ready to move along. Little things like a stuck chuck can sure be a bugga boo. When I go from my three jaw to the four jaw chuck on my Southbend lathe, I do not knock it down with a striking wrench. The most common and natural rotation of the head stock keeps it snug. If I am on a "tedious" threading job and want to remove as many possible problems, I will take a cut, stop roll out the tool, shift to reverse, back the apron back, stop, reset the threading tool to the predetermined cutting depth, change gears to forward and make another cut. I have never had an issue with the chuck coming loose, even under this circumstance. Keep up the good work Mike. Joe, interesting Latin lesson!!!! Al

If you have not taken a look, on the main for sale forum here on the AACA website, take a look and you will see a later model Locomobile 38 chassis and engine for sale. It does merit a look or two as not many Locomobile projects are left in the wild. I hope this group of parts will find a buyer and a caring new owner. Al

My wheel stuff, 7 lug, is in fact the same as used by Packard on the Standard 8 series. The 8 lug wheels are used on the Super 8 series cars. I have a set of 8 lug disc wheels, from a Packard, but no 8 lug wire wheels or wheel centers, sorry... Al

Hello, I will take these parts. PM is sent. Al

I will have a search of my spare parts. I have had both 1930 big series Nash and also 1929 big series Nash. Both these cars used the 7 lug "Packard style" wire wheels. The lug pattern is the same also. I have had a couple of sets and some partial sets of wire wheels for both series of Nash. The 1929 Nash had small hub caps with the 7 lugs exposed. The 1930 Nash had large hubcaps with the 7 lugs covered. I will dig around and see if I have any spare and extra wheel pieces. Al

Does the 903 use the same 7 lug pattern as the earlier Packard, Franklin and Nash cars? Are the lugs exposed (small hubcap) or covered (large hubcap)?

(That RIker, pictured above, is the things dreams are made of!)

This may not be Riker truck but is definitely Riker and 1898 to boot! A good write-up is found on the Dragone website and on the HCCA forum "Auto's for sale". Check it out, what a piece of Americana. This car is being sold at a big west coast auction. It will be interesting to learn what it sells for, and where it will be going next. Al

Hello, I am assuming that all of the lock rings are going to be of the same design. I am curious about how the lock ring fits into and locks into the actual rim. Al

You are right, it looks lit a 'kit" to me also. However, I know the amount of work that you have invested to get to this point. Keep up the good work. I am anxious to see what the original Studebaker Indy car will bring at auction. You are lucky that you did have a car in close proximity to be a guide as you proceeded with your construction project. Al

Can anyone here share a sketch of the side view profile for a Budd disc wheel lock ring? I need to locate a set of five 25" lock rings and do not know for sure what profile I need to look for. Can someone share some advice. Also, does the Budd disc wheel share lock rings with any other wheel makes, either disc or wire ? I may even have to build a set of lock rings using smaller sized lock rings, resized, if I can't find 25" lock rings. Help if you can Al

Hello Ben, I am not sure of the year of the third member cover, but would guess pre 1920. Do you mind if I re-post the picture over on the 38-48 chat forum? Maybe one of those guys can fill in the blanks as to application and year. Do you know what material the cover is made out of? Your Locomobile light provided me the donor chimney that I needed to complete a set of Locomobile script side and tail lights for my project. Thanks again! Al

Hello Ben, Nice third member rear cover! I wonder what caused the crack damage? Maybe a gear failure? Maybe water freezing? I am surprised that this piece looks very similar to a Timken unit cover. Is this cover yours? How much are you wanting for the cover? Maybe someone is looking for this exact piece to complete a 50 year restoration. 🙂 Do you have any other loose pieces? Al

Hello Mike, Does the rod assembly simply have a hole in the bottom of the rod assemble that is dipped into the oil as it rotates? How much level is help in the crankcase? Do you have room to afix some form of a "dipper" (like an old Chevrolet 6 cylinder engine uses) to scoop up and force a slug of oil into the rod big end with each revolution? Al

Nice job Joe! I wish I had a neighbor friend that was in the Casting business! Good for you! Al

Hello Mike, I took a couple of minutes to inquire as to how both the main rod and secondary rod get the flow of lubricating oil. With the wear noted, I suspect that an oiling issue is one of the causes if not the main cause for the serious wear. How straight are your rods? Do you have any literature that calls out the RPM's this engine should run? How are the small ends of both rods? Al

Here is another offering from the same vendor in Washington State. These hubcaps really look nice! I think this hubcap would be proper for any Locomobile up to 1913 and maybe 1914. I do know, from the listed measurement, this cap will fit the front wheels but NOT the rear. So, if you are thinking of putting some nice new hubcaps on your Locomobile you would need two of these and two larger OD rear hubcaps that have the raised boss to connect with the rear axle and hold it in place. I will check with the vendor and see if he has the pattern for the correct CAST rear hubcap for the same vintage Locomobile. I was hoping the picture would be larger, check out the EBAY auction for this Locomobile hubcap. Al

If you have some beat up or missing Locomobile hubcap medallions, check these out on EBAY. Al