alsfarms

Good For You. That pump is certainly taking shape! Joe, here are a few pictures for a diversion for your water pump day. I need to select a finish and get on with it! The wood I chose is Red Oak. I am happy the way this coil box turned out. Now back to the pump. Are you going to test run teh pump to make sure of flow with no heat or rubs? Al

Some days are like that! But some days e3verything "clicks". A few years ago, I took an adult Ed. night class on wood working. I wanted to build a perfect fitting two cylinder wooden coil box that would fit the readily available Model T coils. No big deal huh.... We I am a metal worker, not a wood worker. I came up with my measurements, messed around with the set-up to cut finger joints and was ready to give it a try. The instructor bet me that I would mess up and end up building two, one junk and one keeper. That comment bugged me! (I am not used to planning for failure from the start. I do know that failures do happen however and I know how that goes). I ended up having lots of fun building the coil box and am very happy to say that I only built one box and it is a keeper. Now like Mike has said, I have much more confidence with my wood working skills. Boy am I off the subject of the Mitchell water pump, forgive me. I am also going to give you a small break in the action and post a picture of the two cylinder coil box I built. It is ready for the electrical fixtures, switch and mounting hardware. While you are taking a break from the Mitchell water pump, share your thoughts on the best modern finish to use on the wood before any hardware is installed. I am thinking Polyurathane. Al Pictures by and by.....

Hello Mike, Looks like you are having fun improving the Humberette engine. I actually doubt that the original engines were dead on. .005 is close. For our times and seasons, this is your opportunity to make the engine as good as we can to our 2019 standards. Like Joe, I would take a "kiss" cut to remove the .005 from the face of the flywheel. Also, I do not think I would attempt the face off your your bolt up hardware at the same time. I am sure you would end up with some uncontrollable chatter that your cutting tool simply could not tolerate. I would address the run-out only the face off the bolt heads in another specific operation. Al

Hello Mike, I have been dealing with some significant health issues of my 93 year old mother and simply have not been able to keep up with the automobile chats. I have just a few moments so I thought I would compliment you on the good variety of machine tools you have. The quick change pieces make milling machine work more pleasant for sure. I also agree that the 4 jaw chucks are much more able to repeat a very close center, (as good as the operator makes it and has the skill set). A three jaw is OK if you are just doing a one off fix and do not need to keep a dead on center for several processes, as in Joe's project. My 9" South Bend lathe I tend to keep the 3 jaw chuck in it for quick and easy projects. My 16" Lodge and Shipley, I leave in the 4 jaw chuck. Yes, I do simply plan to take a few extra moments to center up the work piece every time, but I have grown accustom to the extra time and certainly do like the end results. Keep up the good work Mike. Do you have a resolution to your connecting rod issue? Al

Nice radiator. Have you put water to it to see if it has frost damage to the core?

Nice work Joe..... Al

My 1909 Locomobile uses straight side tires in conjunction with 25" Firestone wheel hardware and as above mentioned 34 x 4.5 tires.

The 34 x 4.5 will fit on many mid sized to large cars from early on to the mid 20's. (with a 25" rim)

Hello terry, Yes, I second what John said....thanks for posting a link to some interesting historical automobile license plate trivia. Monday, I will try to visit with the Pa. State Hisotical group. I am hopeful that they may have the means to look up the Locomobile License plate number. Al

The thoughts that have been shared here are greatly appreciated. I had no thought that the car was in Pa. However, the scenery does look eastern to me, so Pa. fits! Terry, if the type of plate shown is from 1910 to 1915, was a design change for or after 1916? At least if I could, in some form, be able to search the records archives, I know the license plate number to look for in each year. The note on the back of the one picture does suggest that the pictures were likely from 1913 or 1914. Your thought further suggests a confirmation to that statement. So, If I could do a search, I would start with 1913 then go to 1914 looking for license plate number 4207. I would guess that the type of automobile and owner would be associated with the plate number? What are the thoughts on that? I may also attempt to use some high quality computer enhanced magnification to see if a year is shown under the keystone emblem. John or others who are familiar with Pa., to the left of the plate numbers (4207) in the middle is the Keystone emblem, what should I be looking for under the Keystone, the year? What should be shown on top of the Keystone, City or county? Another interesting aspect of this license plate is the fact that Aunt Nellie is likely the wife of the owner. That could be a form of confirmation if some sleuthing can take place to trace the origin of the plate number. Does Pa. have a State historical archive group? Thanks for the help, this is a fun way to shift gears for a bit away from bruised knuckles and grease under the fingernails. Al

This request for help from those of your who have a good working handle on early automobile license plates and know how to search state license information/records. This story starts with my long term restoration of a 1909 Locomobile. (That is another long long story!) A few weeks ago, I noticed a couple of pictures for sale on EBAY with the subject automobile being a 1911 -1912 Locomobile Model L Toy tonneau. (My 1909 Locomobile is very similar but being a 1909 does not have the front doors). I decided to purchase those pictures to keep in my :Locomobile photo file. On the back of one of the pictures is found a couple of comments, probably from a family member who is familiar with the car, the time frame and the lady in the car. The hand written note suggests that the pictures were taken in 1913 or 1914 with Aunt Nellie sitting in the passenger seat. The time frame is probably quite accurate as the car, which should have carbide lights, appears to have been converted to have electric headlamps. These headlights sure look like the early Gray and Davis electrics that came out in that same time frame. The last bit of good information is the one picture shows very clearly a State License plate with the number of 4207. I can't quite make out the state of origin. So..... let me ask, can any of the Sherlock Holmes types here evaluate the pictures and potentially identify the State this Locomobile was licensed in and then maybe even scout out the records to determine who the car was registered to. I hope I am not dreaming, but it would be nice to have a bit of correct history to keep with these two pictures. Help me if you can. Al PS: the third photograph is a factory picture of 1909 Locomobile toy tonneau

Nice sketch

Note: With the photographs enlarged, I notice that the headlamps appear to have been replaced with an early electric and look very similar to Gray and Davis. Probably to improve the lighting while driving a speed after dark? These cars are not true speed cars but they are very capable cars back in the day and also in our current times. It also looks like the right front fender has had a little kiss with a fence or something as it is not riding in the correct position. Can any Sherlock Holmes, among us, determine the state this car was licensed in and potentially who this Locomobile was licensed to back in the day? Maybe more history is available to make these photographs even more interesting! Al

1911 or 1912 Locomobile Model L Toy Tonneau #2

!911 or 1912 Locomobile Model L Toy Tonneau (after a couple of years use by Aunt Nellie and family) #1

1909 Locomobile Model L Toy Tonneau, from the factory

While exploring our favorite shopping area, EBAY, I noticed two original photographs that depict a very similar Locomobile to what I am restoring. My car is a 1909 Locomobile Model L which does not have front doors. These new purchased pictures are of a 1911 or 1912 Model Locomobile Modle L which has the front doors. This are nice old original pictures with writing that suggest the lady in the pictures is likely Aunt Nellie and from 1913 or 1914. Does anyone have an Aunt Nellie who originally had a 1911 or 1912 Locomobile Baby Tonneau. I will repost a picture of a 1909 Locomobile Toy Tonneau, as it left the factory, and then follow with the two pictures I just purchased. Al

Nice mock up of you design.... Al

Joe, The heating/cooling of an old car can almost be like watching a dog chase it's own tail. I also suspect that we are much more interested in controlling the heating/cooling of our antique automobiles than our great-grand-dads did back in the day. Al

Hello Joe, I am also sure that flow is good but too much flow will not overwhelm the radiator but move the water so fast that the water/coolant does not have time, in the radiator, to shed the heat through the fins of the radiator. I have seen several original "fixes" on old cars that had continual heating issues where an orifice plate was installed to "slow the flow" through the radiator thus eliminating the heating issue. (No flow is not good either!) I agree with your choice of material and impeller design. Al

I am curious about the maximum pressure that can be developed in an exhaust pressure supplied fuel delivery system. Would someone who has built this type system make a comment. Is it possible to get 2 or 3 PSI or not. Al

Joe, I might have missed something, but I am curious, what type aluminum are you using for the water pump? What configuration will you impeller be? You certainly have a good start on the water pump. Al

Hello Mike, It appears that you have a good and solid modern engineered update for your stock riveted flywheel connection. You should, by all accounts, end up with a solid connection that should not flex or move. Have you contacted anyone, in the Harley Davidson world, to get some information on the V twin connecting rods used. You should be able to get the dimensions you require to see if a retrofit is possible and if the eye to eye measurement will work depending upon your chosen CR and pistons available, (even if you have to go with custom pistons). The Indian enthusiasts might also be a second good source for information on pistons and rods. The fork and blade style rods may allow you to have a bit more room for the bolt up connection that is currently an issue for you. Al

Ben, Thanks for the ideas on the Mason "C". Al

hmmmm, get out and get under. That is a fun tune for sure. Al