hddennis

First, check to see where your serial number falls on this chart. Maxwell didn't have a factory installed Atwater Kent Type CC distributor until late 1917 but since the Type CC was designed to directly replace a magneto it would not be unusual to find one retrofitted on an earlier car. It would be impossible for an ignition system to function if the points never closed. Howard Dennis

Thanks Grimy, maybe he's still on the road. I'll keep checking back. Howard Dennis

I've responded to this on private email and to the email address listed and requested a price on the N.O.S. AK condensors, twice?? Howard Dennis

Want to buy Large Rotor for Atwater-Kent Type CC distributor. Must fit a shaft diameter of .405. I can find the smaller rotors but would like the large rotor as pictured. Thanks, Howard Dennis

Check here:http://annebobroffhajal.com/category/mysteries-of-my-grandfather/my-grandfathers-all-american-inventions/ Howard Dennis

Check out this new forum startup about Maxwell Automobiles: http://maxwellautomobiles.proboards.com/ Howard Dennis

I've never seen an engine number list as such. My late 1917 Maxwell's engine number is about 900 numbers later than my frame number. I assume it is close enough together that it probably is the original engine. It would be awful lucky if the original was damaged and a replacement this close was found. Hope this list helps you find what you are looking for. Howard Dennis

Have you read my private message? Howard Dennis

Thanks Terry, I appreciate the expert help in getting me to understand this. Do you think it might have something to do with Atwater-Kent's previous involvement with radio which was a more sensitive electronics field. I say that because even though I stated electronics was my weak spot I did spend 13 of my early years selling auto parts as a NAPA counterman and I can't remember a single time I sold a coil marked for cylinder usage. Howard Dennis

Auto electronics have always been my weak point but I thought I had a basic understanding. A coil just came on eBay that I normally would be interested in for my 4 cylinder Maxwell EXCEPT this one is marked 8 cylinder use only. Is this just marketing or could there actually be a difference? Howard Dennis

Thanks, I just checked and I need 1 1/8 inch throat and the bolt holes need to be 2 3/8 inches center to center. Howard Dennis

What is the diameter of the throat and distance from center to center on the bolt holes? If it is the size I need I might be interested in purchasing it. Thanks, Howard Dennis

Saved this off eBay a while back hoping it might help someone. Wished it was a better copy but all I have. Howard Dennis

The very first picture shows a hole at each end of the S identical to the horn button on my 31 Chevrolet. A spring steel wire bent into an S sunk into the rubber and each end of the wire went through those holes and into the steering wheel. It was all capped off and hidden by a thin steel cap that snapped over it all. Howard Dennis

Having owned a non-brass Maxwell for a while now I'm sure you're as frustrated as I am about the lack of information on our cars, it's almost nonexistent ! I checked my copy of Maxwell Illustrated Price List of Parts 1916-17 Sixth Edition June 1919 and came up with BA6037 as a part number for the rear lamp assembly for 1916-17 Maxwell's. My only other source is my copy of Maxwell Master Price list of Parts January 1921 which lists BA6037 as an obsolete part to be replaced with A6622 which is listed in this book as rear lamp assembly for 1915-1921 Maxwell's. So that is the only information I have and my guess is the lamps in this post are from 1922-25 Maxwell's Howard Dennis

You didn't read the third line where I state my lights are off a 1920's Maxwell. I have the tiny Model T like light that belongs on mine I just choose to use later lights for better brand recognition. Howard Dennis

Does anyone have the long half of a model 1913 Stewart speedometer swivel they would sell? Apparently there are two versions. One uses a pin that passes through both halves and has a cap pressed on the pin to hold it all together. I need the second style that has a bolt passing through one side, threaded into the other side and having a lock or jam nut on the outside. Howard Dennis

16Max38Ply, Check these pictures. Do you need BA193? I'm pretty sure I have a spare. Howard Dennis

For bearings try George Bachleda Olcar Bearing Company 135 James Creek. Southern Pines, NC. 28387 910-693-3324 George is great to deal with and has found me many bearings no one else could. Howard Dennis

Junk17, If your clutch is the same as my 1917 Maxwell it is being held onto the clutch spider by three large nuts accessible through the access panel on the upper part of the transmission bellhousing. Once the 3 nuts, washers and springs are removed the cone clutch and the transmission can be removed as a complete unit. I had problems adjusting my clutch after rebuilding and tore up my spider by backing the nuts off too much and then starting the car. If I were you I would count how many turns each nut takes until it comes off the stud. If your car was functioning fine when last used this will be a reference point for reassembly. Howard Dennis

I bet a picture would increase your number of possible buyers. Howard Dennis

Linus, I sent you a private message.

My 1936 Dodge years ago used a curved regulator like that mounted on top of the generator. Howard Dennis

I may be totally off base here but my first antique car was a PB sedan over 50 years ago and I remember something about a rubber and steel transmission mount and if I recall correctly the gearshift lever was mounted on a frame cross member and floated above the transmission shifting rails so if your mounts rubber is shot like mine was it may be allowing the lever and rails to go out of alignment and could be causing the gears to jam or hang up. Howard Dennis Took awhile but I finally found the link: http://then-now-auto.com/plymouth-motor-mounts/ I'd be willing to bet your transmission has dropped down due to a decayed mount like this.