hddennis

Thanks for checking John, did it take you directly to the dash or did it take you to some search site and you had to click a second link? Howard Dennis

I just posted 3 posts about a Maxwell dash. Two on here and one on another Maxwell site. The Maxwell site worked perfectly and took the viewer directly to the dashes location on the web. Both links on this site have been corrupted to take viewer to another site???? I've deleted, retested and reposted and it still ends up corrupted. Have we been hacked??? Howard Dennis

Found this dash panel for sale. I know it definitely fits a 1916 and may also fit late 1915 or early 1917. These are hard to find and have cutout/regulator that is the brain of these Model 25's electrical system. Just passing this on as I already bought a later dash she had for my late 1917 and thought maybe someone else could use this one. After clicking the link below, part way down on the right hand side click this: skip these deals & continue to etsy.com https://www.etsy.com/listing/572123629/vintage-1900s-electrial-car-panels-auto?ref=search_recently_viewed-1 Howard Dennis

Found this dash panel for sale. I know it definitely fits a 1916 and may also fit late 1915 or early 1917. These are hard to find and have cutout/regulator that is the brain of these Model 25's electrical system. Just passing this on as I already bought a later dash she had for my late 1917 and thought maybe someone else could use this one. After clicking the link below, part way down on the right hand side click this: skip these deals & continue to etsy.com https://www.etsy.com/listing/572123629/vintage-1900s-electrial-car-panels-auto?ref=listing-shop-header-1 Howard Dennis

I'm confused?? The HCCA library is located in Pennsylvania? I thought it was in California. Howard Dennis

I know they have their own forum but I posted this over there and got crickets???????????? Anyone here know anything? Does this library exist anymore online? I'm near the end of a 3 year membership I purchased to be able to research antique cars online in period magazines. For several months I have been unable to access the site. I've been told the problem is being worked on for months now. My last email asking for updates has gone unanswered. Anyone know what is going on? I really miss this resource but am wondering if it is worth renewing if I can't get what I paid for. Howard Dennis

Frank, I'd love to but I was so happy I solved my problem I quickly reassembled it without taking any pictures. Howard Dennis

Serial numbers 337101 to 388539 are 1922 Maxwell's. Serial numbers 388530 to 444231 are 1923 Maxwell's. Howard Dennis

Thanks guys, Since I found out this float is available from several suppliers I decided to give it a try even though I haven't done a lot of soldering in the past. I clamped the new float in the vise and put a little pressure on the hinge while heating the end and it popped right off. I then tinned the whole area between the 2 solder spots on the float and the old hinge off my cork float. I put the old hinge on the new float and heated the hinge center with my Weller 325 watt gun and it just melted onto the float in an instant! I wished I had been filming it because it seemed like I really knew what I was doing and turned out perfect! Thanks for all your suggestions, Howard Dennis

Just found something interesting in the parts that came with my Maxwell from it's 1960's unfinished restoration. It was a N.O.S. Carter float in a box marked #21-29S and an online search shows it fits late 20's and 30's brass bowl Carter carburetors. It's an almost perfect match for the cork float in my Maxwell K D Type B on my Maxwell except for the float hinge. Anyone done soldering on these type brass floats? I need to unsolder the original hinge and re-solder my cork float hinge to it. I have a dual heat range older Weller electric soldering gun and wonder if this will work? I'm worried about overheating and opening up a seam and also what type solder do I use. Any ideas or suggestions or tips greatly appreciated. Thanks, Howard Dennis

Just found something interesting in the parts that came with my Maxwell from it's 1960's unfinished restoration. It was a N.O.S. Carter float in a box marked #21-29S and an online search shows it fits late 20's and 30's brass bowl Carter carburetors. It's an almost perfect match for the cork float in my Maxwell K D Type B on my Maxwell except for the float hinge. Anyone done soldering on these type brass floats? I need to unsolder the original hinge and re-solder my cork float hinge to it. I have a dual heat range older Weller electric soldering gun and wonder if this will work? I'm worried about overheating and opening up a seam and also what type solder do I use. Any ideas or suggestions or tips greatly appreciated. Thanks, Howard Dennis

Does anyone know if it is possible to buy wood screws with a larger head diameter? Say like 8's with a 10 diameter head? Howard Dennis

MRCVS, notice the flattened nose on the fitting I sent you, it should be tapered to (I believe) 37 degrees? so it will seal against the inner cone of the copper lines flare as shown in the illustration. You need to get an internal seal because I believe your leak is going through the threads of that barrel fitting you have in between the fuel line and my fitting I sent you. Howard Dennis

Get those clearer pictures yet? I'm still interested in this gauge but worried about it's serviceability as is. Howard Dennis

Gary, Thanks for the offer. I just this afternoon mailed it to a welder who promised he could repair it. I can't prove it by period part numbers or books but by going through all my photo files it appears 1917-1922 used the same wheel at least visually. Does your 1920 and 1922 seem alike? Howard Dennis

Thanks Dave, after failing to generate any responses on a replacement, I just mailed it off to a fellow who offered to weld it so I can't give you any measurements. I may get back to you when I have it in hand again. Howard Dennis

Check post #14, it shows the piano wire and clip that attaches to the bottom of the choke arm on the KD. Howard Dennis

Thanks Gary, appreciate the thoughts and concern. Judging by the lack of response so far I may end up welding it but would really rather not. Howard Dennis

Great week so far! Yesterday diagnosed with bladder cancer and this morning I break my steering wheel spider on my 1917 Maxwell. Anyone know where I can get another? Howard Dennis

Great week so far! Yesterday diagnosed with bladder cancer and this morning I break my steering wheel spider on my 1917 Maxwell. Anyone know where I can get another? Howard Dennis

Any chance of a clearer picture? Howard Dennis

Sent private message but you never read it so I deleted it. Is the needle on the Stewart gauge resting on the peg or is it reading numbers without any vacuum possibly indicating it has been overstressed and might need recalibration? Howard Dennis

Gunsmoke, Thanks a million for taking the time to post this. Sometimes I hesitate to post because I think it's a stupid question or it's already been discussed before. When an answer such as you posted appears it makes it all worthwhile. Thanks, this clears up all the speculation. Since there are examples marked Jarvis and ones like mine with the DPCD 314761A does this number show up in a Chrysler parts book? Howard Dennis

Thanks John, I know you told me this but others were listed with many confusing models letters and I still don't understand is the Jarvis also a factory cap or aftermarket? So if this is 6 cylinder only is the 8 cylinder a bigger cap or just a different style? Howard Dennis

Just picked this up and the more I look online the more confused I get. Can anyone tell me exactly what it does and does not fit? Also what is the difference between mine which is marked DPCD 314761A and the same cap that has none of those markings but appears the same but is marked Jarvis? Howard Dennis