hddennis

You do realize without the selling NONE of these other stories would have been possible?? AND I'll bet almost all of these people also have at least one good story about selling on eBay as well. Howard Dennis

http://home.townisp.com/~alsancle/index.html

Thanks a million for posting this. I have been in love with these for years but had no idea what they sounded like or were capable of on the track. To NOT use one of these for what it was built for would be a crime! Howard Dennis This brings it to life:

A few years ago I found a pre-war tether car on eBay bid up to $143,00 and offered the seller $1000.00 to end the auction early thinking I might be able to double my money. Sold it over the phone 12 hours later for $5000.00, I LOVE eBay! After hunting for years and buying the contents of 10 rear axle for my 1917 Maxwell I'd just about given up on finding enough good parts to reassemble my rear axle. Stumbled across an auction on eBay listing a 1916 Maxwell rough basket case. I called the seller hoping he might have parts to help me out. At first he seemed annoyed and wanted to know how I found out he had a Maxwell for sale. Turns out he listed in on eBay Australia and he was from New Zealand and eBay accidently listed his car worldwide. Long story short he knew the whereabouts of N.O.S. Maxwell parts imported to New Zealand nearly 100 years earlier. He sent me a list of Model T parts he needed and we made a trade. If not for that mistake by eBay I'd still be hunting. Did I say I LOVE eBay? Howard Dennis

Yesterday I spotted a very nice hubcap at local antique mall and am wondering what it fits and should I go back and get it? These pictures were on here before and were never accurately identified before. They are like the one I found but in worse condition. Anyone know for sure what they fit? Howard Dennis

Yesterday I spotted a very nice hubcap at local antique mall and am wondering what it fits and should I go back and get it? These pictures were on here before and were never accurately identified before. They are like the one I found but in worse condition. Anyone know for sure what they fit? Howard Dennis

Do you take PayPal? Howard Dennis

I've had an awful time keeping my 1917 Maxwell running consistently and authenticly too. I started out wanting to be 100% authentic and used a KD Type B as the car was originally delivered with. Sometimes it worked fine and the next time not so good. I was told by several carb rebuilders the KD was a junk carb and not worth fooling with. Still fighting to be authentic I reasoned that Maxwell used the KD the longest and many surviving Maxwell's still were equipped thusly. The last straw came this spring when my KD was wounded by ethanol poisoning and acted up no matter how well I cleaned it. During my long restoration I had tried to gather examples of all carburetors used on the Maxwell 25. I'm currently running an Eagle carburetor and it seems to be the best choice so far. Today I just bought a Kingston carb used on some 1915 Maxwell's before the KD replaced them in production. The Kingston is also heavily advertised in period automotive books as an aftermarket replacement for Maxwell's. What are other Model 25 owners running on their cars and do any of you have experience with the Kingston carburetor? Howard Dennis

Thanks for checking John, did it take you directly to the dash or did it take you to some search site and you had to click a second link? Howard Dennis

I just posted 3 posts about a Maxwell dash. Two on here and one on another Maxwell site. The Maxwell site worked perfectly and took the viewer directly to the dashes location on the web. Both links on this site have been corrupted to take viewer to another site???? I've deleted, retested and reposted and it still ends up corrupted. Have we been hacked??? Howard Dennis

Found this dash panel for sale. I know it definitely fits a 1916 and may also fit late 1915 or early 1917. These are hard to find and have cutout/regulator that is the brain of these Model 25's electrical system. Just passing this on as I already bought a later dash she had for my late 1917 and thought maybe someone else could use this one. After clicking the link below, part way down on the right hand side click this: skip these deals & continue to etsy.com https://www.etsy.com/listing/572123629/vintage-1900s-electrial-car-panels-auto?ref=search_recently_viewed-1 Howard Dennis

Found this dash panel for sale. I know it definitely fits a 1916 and may also fit late 1915 or early 1917. These are hard to find and have cutout/regulator that is the brain of these Model 25's electrical system. Just passing this on as I already bought a later dash she had for my late 1917 and thought maybe someone else could use this one. After clicking the link below, part way down on the right hand side click this: skip these deals & continue to etsy.com https://www.etsy.com/listing/572123629/vintage-1900s-electrial-car-panels-auto?ref=listing-shop-header-1 Howard Dennis

I'm confused?? The HCCA library is located in Pennsylvania? I thought it was in California. Howard Dennis

I know they have their own forum but I posted this over there and got crickets???????????? Anyone here know anything? Does this library exist anymore online? I'm near the end of a 3 year membership I purchased to be able to research antique cars online in period magazines. For several months I have been unable to access the site. I've been told the problem is being worked on for months now. My last email asking for updates has gone unanswered. Anyone know what is going on? I really miss this resource but am wondering if it is worth renewing if I can't get what I paid for. Howard Dennis

Frank, I'd love to but I was so happy I solved my problem I quickly reassembled it without taking any pictures. Howard Dennis

Serial numbers 337101 to 388539 are 1922 Maxwell's. Serial numbers 388530 to 444231 are 1923 Maxwell's. Howard Dennis

Thanks guys, Since I found out this float is available from several suppliers I decided to give it a try even though I haven't done a lot of soldering in the past. I clamped the new float in the vise and put a little pressure on the hinge while heating the end and it popped right off. I then tinned the whole area between the 2 solder spots on the float and the old hinge off my cork float. I put the old hinge on the new float and heated the hinge center with my Weller 325 watt gun and it just melted onto the float in an instant! I wished I had been filming it because it seemed like I really knew what I was doing and turned out perfect! Thanks for all your suggestions, Howard Dennis

Just found something interesting in the parts that came with my Maxwell from it's 1960's unfinished restoration. It was a N.O.S. Carter float in a box marked #21-29S and an online search shows it fits late 20's and 30's brass bowl Carter carburetors. It's an almost perfect match for the cork float in my Maxwell K D Type B on my Maxwell except for the float hinge. Anyone done soldering on these type brass floats? I need to unsolder the original hinge and re-solder my cork float hinge to it. I have a dual heat range older Weller electric soldering gun and wonder if this will work? I'm worried about overheating and opening up a seam and also what type solder do I use. Any ideas or suggestions or tips greatly appreciated. Thanks, Howard Dennis

Just found something interesting in the parts that came with my Maxwell from it's 1960's unfinished restoration. It was a N.O.S. Carter float in a box marked #21-29S and an online search shows it fits late 20's and 30's brass bowl Carter carburetors. It's an almost perfect match for the cork float in my Maxwell K D Type B on my Maxwell except for the float hinge. Anyone done soldering on these type brass floats? I need to unsolder the original hinge and re-solder my cork float hinge to it. I have a dual heat range older Weller electric soldering gun and wonder if this will work? I'm worried about overheating and opening up a seam and also what type solder do I use. Any ideas or suggestions or tips greatly appreciated. Thanks, Howard Dennis

Does anyone know if it is possible to buy wood screws with a larger head diameter? Say like 8's with a 10 diameter head? Howard Dennis

MRCVS, notice the flattened nose on the fitting I sent you, it should be tapered to (I believe) 37 degrees? so it will seal against the inner cone of the copper lines flare as shown in the illustration. You need to get an internal seal because I believe your leak is going through the threads of that barrel fitting you have in between the fuel line and my fitting I sent you. Howard Dennis

Get those clearer pictures yet? I'm still interested in this gauge but worried about it's serviceability as is. Howard Dennis

Gary, Thanks for the offer. I just this afternoon mailed it to a welder who promised he could repair it. I can't prove it by period part numbers or books but by going through all my photo files it appears 1917-1922 used the same wheel at least visually. Does your 1920 and 1922 seem alike? Howard Dennis

Thanks Dave, after failing to generate any responses on a replacement, I just mailed it off to a fellow who offered to weld it so I can't give you any measurements. I may get back to you when I have it in hand again. Howard Dennis