hddennis

Just spotted this for sale: https://www.enginads.com/classifieds/showproduct.php/product/157307/cat/42 Howard Dennis

Greg, how about some info on your Chrysler museum? Since Fiat closed down their museum we Chrysler fans are feeling a bit like orphan make owners. Howard Dennis

For about the last 3 days every time I click on my bookmarked AACA Forum it says "This community not available" When I was able to gain access I deleted the old bookmark and used the new one only to have it fail again multiple times. What is going on? Howard Dennis

Bjornv, spotted this on eBay : https://www.ebay.com/itm/1917-1918-1919-DYNETO-Generator-and-Starter-Parts-List-Manual/381680787775?hash=item58ddf2a13f:g:b~sAAOSw3mpXI3F4&vxp=mtr Is this similar to what you need? Howard Dennis

Bjornv, you will probably have better luck finding out who made the starter and or engine because it most likely was used on other makes with more survivors than the extremely rare Dixie Flyer. Do you have any pictures? That would be a big help as well. Howard Dennis

It's happening to us all But it sure beats the alternative! Howard Dennis P.S. If you end up with a modern replacement for the oddball condenser could you post it here so we can all see what to use?

https://forums.aaca.org/topic/315121-points-for-maxwell/ Howard Dennis

Ivan, I'm confused and believe we are talking about two different gauges?? My gauge has a copper tube full of ether that expands a flat tube inside the gauge which moves the needle. I think they call this a Bourdon tube gauge. Howard Dennis

Thanks Gary, appreciate the response. Any idea of approximate turn around time? Howard Dennis

Anyone had one these capillary tubes replaced in the recent past? Trying to find out the approximate cost to have this done. Howard Dennis

Emile, I don't know if they can help or not but when I was at the end of my rope on my 1917 Maxwell's dash regulator cutout and coil problem they rebuilt both for me. It would be worth a try to see if they could custom make something for you. http://www.mykmlifestyle.com/Ignition_Coils_Antique_.html

Found these in my files, hope they add to this? Howard Dennis

23hack, thanks for posting this and helping us out. Answer this for me. If he wires his car according to the Maxwell diagram isn't he just running HT to the cap on the magneto which the magneto then distributes to the 4 cylinders until engine starts and not actually running HT to the magneto's internals? Howard Dennis

Emile, while trying to find an answer to your questions I realized my suggestion to use any 6 volt coil was wrong and shows my lack of electrical knowledge. If I understand the problem correctly most 6 volt coils were used with a distributor whose points and condenser helped to control the coil's spark and using the coil by itself wouldn't work in your case. I was wondering if you could use a vibrating or trembler coil instead? that being said I STILL don't understand how your Maxwell's original coil functioned. I'm hoping someone with better knowledge will chime in and educate us both. Howard Dennis

Just ran across these diagrams from a 1915 owners manual if they help: Howard Dennis

Emile, I'll try to see if I can help you with my limited knowledge based on researching ignition systems for my 1917 Maxwell. My first question would be do you have an original Simms-Huff magneto on your car? If not you probably don't need the intensifying coil as Simms-Huff magnetos are the only ones I've ever seen incapable of generating sufficient spark at low rpm's to start the motor. In the 1915 wiring diagrams the coil is there to increase the spark from the dry cell batteries until the engine starts and the magneto reaches sufficient rpm to generate enough spark to run the engine at which point the starter pedal is released and the dry cells are disconnected from the ignition circuit. Electrical systems have always been my weak point so please don't take my statements as being expert advice I'm just trying to pass on what little I've learned. I would think you could use almost any 6 volt coil to intensify the spark from your dry cells or battery you currently have in your Maxwell. Howard Dennis

I can't find it in my heart to give any credit when the car is touted to be a restoration by a top firm and the add states NO rust. Clearly this is NOT the work of a top firm and it has serious rust issues in the doors and sills and I'd bet elsewhere as well. Howard Dennis

I'm afraid I have to agree with Keiser31 on the quality of this restoration. I find it VERY hard to believe the White Post that I read about years ago did this car. Take the photo of the door bottom and enlarge it and you will see that not only was this door full of rust cancer but the repair was so poorly done that it STILL has holes in it that were NOT covered in the repair. The peeling paint under the cowl exposing shiny bare metal makes me wonder if this car was acid dipped and then improperly neutralized and now the entire paint job is loosing it's adhesion because this is more than normal aging causing this deterioration of this finish. Whenever I see shortcomings like this in a restoration I have to ask myself what other things were not correctly repaired or replaced. Howard Dennis

Paul, I guess I've always been lucky in having all the ones I've assembled line up with very little effort and never needed this tool but in rethinking it from your explanation I see where it might make alignment easier. Howard Dennis

Thanks, I have this in my files and thought if this tool was required why didn't I find it listed on this document from the manufacturer? Howard Dennis

Just ran across this tool and since my Maxwell has this ignition system I'd like to understand how it works. The coil nut and screwdrivers make sense to me but the contact aligner has me baffled. Anyone have any ideas? Howard Dennis

Can only add my personal experience to this problem. Having worked on many antique cars over the years I thought I was a pretty good judge on what was a serviceable part when I finished up my 6 year long restoration of my 1965 Shelby GT350. When I fired up the brand new motor for the first time I expected the overheating to disappear rapidly as the motor broke in but it didn't and I knew it couldn't have anything to do with the radiator as it was a low mileage original with all the correct numbers that I had found in a junkyard on a Mustang wrecked very early in it's life and besides I had taken it to a radiator shop who declared it completely usable after flow and leak testing. After checking hoses and water pump I was stumped until a friend told me to try his radiator shop of choice. Long story short he found that although my radiator appeared and tested as new the years of non use in the junkyard had allowed corrosion to separate the copper fins from the tubes so very little heat dissipation was actually occurring. Replaced the core and instant success and yet before this experience I never would have believed it possible. Live and learn. Howard Dennis

Just Acquired this flyer, based on price shown and windshield bottom style I'd say this shows a 1918 Maxwell. Howard Dennis

Here's pictures of the only one I've ever seen, sent to me by the owner of a 1915 Maxwell: Howard Dennis

In case anyone else is looking for these, Tioga just sent this response to my email inquiry: We do carry some 10-32 threaded rivets, no 10-24 threads (we call them unslotted screws). We have them in round and truss head. They are as follows: 10-32 x 5/8" unslotted round and unslotted truss head - $.35/each We also have a 10-32 x 1" unslotted truss that has a #6 size head (2 sizes smaller than a #10 head). They are $.50/each. These are the only lengths we carry. Howard Dennis