AlfaTazio

Members
  • Content Count

    21
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

12 Good

About AlfaTazio

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 08/23/1955

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Well, at least I will not have Ed, Rusty and Matt, et al., bidding against me at this auction, what a relief. Fellas, please spread the word that this car really stinks, and maybe I can snag it for a great price. Ciao, Jay
  2. I'm considering bidding on Lot 433 at Bonham's Tupelo auction, but...its more than a 12 hour drive to check it out. and I am wondering just how much I can check, assuming : The engine crankcase is empty, as well as the gas tank, so, the car will not be able to start to demonstrate the engine running, nor whether the piston rings, or tranny gears are stuck, nor any serious leaks once the engine would run and come up to temperature. Bonham's themselves must have great experience with these issues, and disclaim any potential or real problems. So, aside from judging the exterior and interior bodywork, just how am I expected to evaluate spending between 25-40 K? Anyway, if any forum members have seen this car, i would appreciate a quick note on its more obvious condition. Thanks, Jay
  3. We are closing on a home in the Lakes Region of NH, near Wolfeboro, and I am going to want to register some antique cars, 1918 up to 1932. I have looked up the DMV info, much as it may be, and they seem to want to restrict me to only shows, parades, special events...nothing about occasional driving....that's not going to do it. If NH resident would chime in, would I be better attempting to get a full registration in lieu of a antique tag..? Just a side note, today is the first day that I finally adjusted the clutch linkage on my 1918 Scripps Model G, to shift into all gears smoothly, without torturing the tranny....I did not think I would ever get this to work so well...I am not the most experienced cone clutch guy.
  4. Thanks kbeach, they do rotate a bit and then pull out. I did have to use a older, thin bladed knife from the kitchen to insert between the bezel and the bucket, working it around the circumference, and then could twist the bezel off, with the button depressed... of course. Hmm, my wife informed me later that the knife is called a *spreader*, a flat knife with rounded end, not v. sharp....just don't get caught using one.....
  5. As silly as it sounds, I am trying to remove the headlight bezels from a 1918 Scripps Booth Roadster, Model G. There are no clips or screws or tensioning devices, but, there is a small button that one can press, as much as they like. Now, would the bezel rotate a bit and be released, or just slide one edge forward? The bezels have been on a long, long time and may be corroded in place. I am trying not to do any unnecessary damage to the buckets themselves. These headlight buckets may be identical to some Chevy 490, but I don't really know. This particular car is a true ex-Barney Pollard car, and Barney must have had a taste for yellow and green, as the body is yellow, and green is seemingly everywhere else, save the seats. So, Barney must have added the headlight lenses I am trying to remove......MacBeth-Evans lens, here, take a look: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-MacBeth-Evans-Pittsburg-Glass-Co-Green-Eyebrow-Automobile-Headlight-Len/222945468906?hash=item33e895e1ea:g:yhEAAOSwtuBa1rzy I have a great respect for Mr. Pollard, but not for his taste in antique headlight lenses....
  6. Thanks for all the replies and suggestions, they are very much appreciated. Okay, the bloody tranny is fixed......I pulled up the floorboards and large metal tranny cover, then removed the shift tower, only to have the intermediate piece surrounding the ends of the shift rods to move around....then I saw it, there is a bolt hole right through the center of the large frame/tranny bracket and a 1/2 inch bolt passes through and helps secure this intermediate piece. Once I installed a new threaded bolt and aligned the shift rods, then re-inserted the shift tower, I could access the gears again and yes, the car is now moving in reverse as well as the forward gears....without that bolt, there must have been some flexing. When i work on my cars, I believe, I always put the bolts and nuts back..... Which brings to mind another car I have been working on, a 1925 Pierce Series 80 I acquired this past summer. There were problems with shifting, grinding gears, etc. The seller, whom is a very decent collector, talked about some specialist working on the engine, and other things, etc.... well, upon removing those floorboards to attempt to adjust up the clutch, I could see perhaps 4 nuts missing around the bell housing, no washers on the others, nasty old rusty nuts being the ones used....and its a Pierce Arrow? Did the guy have zero respect for what he was working on.... must happen all the time
  7. Thanks for the replies. I have had several cars with failing input shaft bearings over the years, and know the sound well. This PB has a quiet smooth tranny, in this case, I don't think its the bearings. In regards to the rubber tranny mount, that's a very good suggestion as well, so I inspected it and it must have been replaced the last time the car had restoration work done, its in okay shape. I checked by placing a floor jack with a bit of wood under that tranny and gently jacking it, there was no movement upwards of the tranny. In reference to my suspicion of the free-wheeling device, I had a 31 Plymouth PA, and had removed the freewheeling cable to do some dash repair. When I first re-installed the cable, I didn't have it in the right spot, and the car would not engage reverse gear....finally, I postioned the cable correctly, and reverse began working again..... So, I will remove the floorboards, etc...and then detach the shift tower and try and see whats doing. I have the feeling a small rap on a shift fork might help....especially with the free-wheeling device locked out now.... Jay
  8. I have a 32 Plymouth PB and lately, it decided to have the tranny become stuck in 1st gear.....the clutch works fine, the gearbox has plenty of oit, etc.....and it had been shifting very well but.....the free wheeling knob was all the way in, and I believe that allows the lever to actually be *in* freewheeling, even though it did not drive that way. This car also has the optional *clutchless* system from the factory that assists shifts due to throttle pressure and a vacuum system. On the intake manifold, I had inserted a brass threaded plug to dis-able the system, and it has worked fine for some time. Though, lately, I was hearing a bit of gearbox noise, as if the gear was not sliding correctly into position. Anyway, its stuck in first gear, and I have moved the freewheeling lever into the position to dis-able the device, but with no luck. Would it be possible for the free-wheeling mechansim to allow a gear to become stuck, or am I pulling the tranny to have a look at the shifter forks and rods....
  9. Fellas, I thought I would weigh in a bit, to my eyes, this is a 1925-26 Chevy Superior roadster, and it does not have a Mercury body. A Mercury Sportabout body would have had a single passenger door, fittings for a canvas top, a different windshield frame and tell-tale air vents on at least the side for ventilation. In this case, someone has altered the stock windscreen and made up different panels from the original cowl back. I think its a 1925 due to the early thin round headlamp bar I think i am seeing, and then, there are what look like Model T headlamps....eeekkkk... Still, a very sporting looking car. Hats off to Don above, he really has taken the two best photos of Pinky Randall's restored Mercury bodied car on a Superior Chassis, circa 1926, along with a 1928 center dash assembly....GM now owns this particular car. But Don's photos show the car at its best. I had people in my office reacting v. positively to them. Ciao, Jay
  10. Thanks Shannon, I see the Myers each year at Hershey, and expect to again this Oct. Thanks for the info on TCP Global. I will be very pleased to access the wealth of knowledge here, as I am starting out at ground zero for the Dodges. Oh, will be going to the Old Car Festival in Dearborn MI next weekend, should you happen to be there... Jay
  11. Thanks Ron and gundog, My car would be a relatively early 1928, with the recessed, or tray headliner....I think the car would then be Brunswick Blue......now, if I could just find out that shade of blue....I had been looking through eBay ads for 1928 Dodge Victory six, and can find all the cars in color illustrations, with the exception of the Coupe, naturally.
  12. Fellas, Looks like I might be able to acquire a 1928 Coupe. Its been poorly repainted all black...I am going to change the body color to something else. Now, would the cab section be the same body color, or a fender black color? I am unsure of the original colors this car had... Thanks for the help, Jay
  13. Actually, I am aware of the two different body sizes, but....what is the wheel bolt hole dimension on the wooden spoked wheels? Bill - sorry, no photos yet... Jay
  14. Hi, at the suggestion of another member, I am reposting this query to this forum.... I am currently looking at two 1928 Dodge Victory Coupes, and noticing differences between them... One Coupe has 19 inch wooden wheels, with a recessed, or, tray ceiling headliner. The other Coupe has 21 inch wooden wheels, smooth headliner, and a slightly larger body overall...yet both appear to be distinctly 1928 models. What other differences or benefits would someone know off... Would v. much like to locate a set of wire wheels for either car.. Thanks, Jay
  15. Fellas, I am currently looking at two 1928 Victory Coupes, and am noticing differences between the two.... One Coupe has 19 inch wooden wheels, with a recessed, or, tray ceiling headliner. The other Coupe has 21 inch wooden wheels, smooth headliner, and a slightly larger body overall...yet both appear to be distinctly 1928 models. What other differences or benefits would someone know off... Would v. much like to locate a set of wire wheels for either car.... Thanks, Jay