AlfaTazio

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About AlfaTazio

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  • Birthday 08/23/1955

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  1. Thanks kbeach, they do rotate a bit and then pull out. I did have to use a older, thin bladed knife from the kitchen to insert between the bezel and the bucket, working it around the circumference, and then could twist the bezel off, with the button depressed... of course. Hmm, my wife informed me later that the knife is called a *spreader*, a flat knife with rounded end, not v. sharp....just don't get caught using one.....
  2. As silly as it sounds, I am trying to remove the headlight bezels from a 1918 Scripps Booth Roadster, Model G. There are no clips or screws or tensioning devices, but, there is a small button that one can press, as much as they like. Now, would the bezel rotate a bit and be released, or just slide one edge forward? The bezels have been on a long, long time and may be corroded in place. I am trying not to do any unnecessary damage to the buckets themselves. These headlight buckets may be identical to some Chevy 490, but I don't really know. This particular car is a true ex-Barney Pollard car, and Barney must have had a taste for yellow and green, as the body is yellow, and green is seemingly everywhere else, save the seats. So, Barney must have added the headlight lenses I am trying to remove......MacBeth-Evans lens, here, take a look: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-MacBeth-Evans-Pittsburg-Glass-Co-Green-Eyebrow-Automobile-Headlight-Len/222945468906?hash=item33e895e1ea:g:yhEAAOSwtuBa1rzy I have a great respect for Mr. Pollard, but not for his taste in antique headlight lenses....
  3. Thanks for all the replies and suggestions, they are very much appreciated. Okay, the bloody tranny is fixed......I pulled up the floorboards and large metal tranny cover, then removed the shift tower, only to have the intermediate piece surrounding the ends of the shift rods to move around....then I saw it, there is a bolt hole right through the center of the large frame/tranny bracket and a 1/2 inch bolt passes through and helps secure this intermediate piece. Once I installed a new threaded bolt and aligned the shift rods, then re-inserted the shift tower, I could access the gears again and yes, the car is now moving in reverse as well as the forward gears....without that bolt, there must have been some flexing. When i work on my cars, I believe, I always put the bolts and nuts back..... Which brings to mind another car I have been working on, a 1925 Pierce Series 80 I acquired this past summer. There were problems with shifting, grinding gears, etc. The seller, whom is a very decent collector, talked about some specialist working on the engine, and other things, etc.... well, upon removing those floorboards to attempt to adjust up the clutch, I could see perhaps 4 nuts missing around the bell housing, no washers on the others, nasty old rusty nuts being the ones used....and its a Pierce Arrow? Did the guy have zero respect for what he was working on.... must happen all the time
  4. Thanks for the replies. I have had several cars with failing input shaft bearings over the years, and know the sound well. This PB has a quiet smooth tranny, in this case, I don't think its the bearings. In regards to the rubber tranny mount, that's a very good suggestion as well, so I inspected it and it must have been replaced the last time the car had restoration work done, its in okay shape. I checked by placing a floor jack with a bit of wood under that tranny and gently jacking it, there was no movement upwards of the tranny. In reference to my suspicion of the free-wheeling device, I had a 31 Plymouth PA, and had removed the freewheeling cable to do some dash repair. When I first re-installed the cable, I didn't have it in the right spot, and the car would not engage reverse gear....finally, I postioned the cable correctly, and reverse began working again..... So, I will remove the floorboards, etc...and then detach the shift tower and try and see whats doing. I have the feeling a small rap on a shift fork might help....especially with the free-wheeling device locked out now.... Jay
  5. I have a 32 Plymouth PB and lately, it decided to have the tranny become stuck in 1st gear.....the clutch works fine, the gearbox has plenty of oit, etc.....and it had been shifting very well but.....the free wheeling knob was all the way in, and I believe that allows the lever to actually be *in* freewheeling, even though it did not drive that way. This car also has the optional *clutchless* system from the factory that assists shifts due to throttle pressure and a vacuum system. On the intake manifold, I had inserted a brass threaded plug to dis-able the system, and it has worked fine for some time. Though, lately, I was hearing a bit of gearbox noise, as if the gear was not sliding correctly into position. Anyway, its stuck in first gear, and I have moved the freewheeling lever into the position to dis-able the device, but with no luck. Would it be possible for the free-wheeling mechansim to allow a gear to become stuck, or am I pulling the tranny to have a look at the shifter forks and rods....
  6. Fellas, I thought I would weigh in a bit, to my eyes, this is a 1925-26 Chevy Superior roadster, and it does not have a Mercury body. A Mercury Sportabout body would have had a single passenger door, fittings for a canvas top, a different windshield frame and tell-tale air vents on at least the side for ventilation. In this case, someone has altered the stock windscreen and made up different panels from the original cowl back. I think its a 1925 due to the early thin round headlamp bar I think i am seeing, and then, there are what look like Model T headlamps....eeekkkk... Still, a very sporting looking car. Hats off to Don above, he really has taken the two best photos of Pinky Randall's restored Mercury bodied car on a Superior Chassis, circa 1926, along with a 1928 center dash assembly....GM now owns this particular car. But Don's photos show the car at its best. I had people in my office reacting v. positively to them. Ciao, Jay
  7. Thanks Shannon, I see the Myers each year at Hershey, and expect to again this Oct. Thanks for the info on TCP Global. I will be very pleased to access the wealth of knowledge here, as I am starting out at ground zero for the Dodges. Oh, will be going to the Old Car Festival in Dearborn MI next weekend, should you happen to be there... Jay
  8. Thanks Ron and gundog, My car would be a relatively early 1928, with the recessed, or tray headliner....I think the car would then be Brunswick Blue......now, if I could just find out that shade of blue....I had been looking through eBay ads for 1928 Dodge Victory six, and can find all the cars in color illustrations, with the exception of the Coupe, naturally.
  9. Fellas, Looks like I might be able to acquire a 1928 Coupe. Its been poorly repainted all black...I am going to change the body color to something else. Now, would the cab section be the same body color, or a fender black color? I am unsure of the original colors this car had... Thanks for the help, Jay
  10. Actually, I am aware of the two different body sizes, but....what is the wheel bolt hole dimension on the wooden spoked wheels? Bill - sorry, no photos yet... Jay
  11. Hi, at the suggestion of another member, I am reposting this query to this forum.... I am currently looking at two 1928 Dodge Victory Coupes, and noticing differences between them... One Coupe has 19 inch wooden wheels, with a recessed, or, tray ceiling headliner. The other Coupe has 21 inch wooden wheels, smooth headliner, and a slightly larger body overall...yet both appear to be distinctly 1928 models. What other differences or benefits would someone know off... Would v. much like to locate a set of wire wheels for either car.. Thanks, Jay
  12. Fellas, I am currently looking at two 1928 Victory Coupes, and am noticing differences between the two.... One Coupe has 19 inch wooden wheels, with a recessed, or, tray ceiling headliner. The other Coupe has 21 inch wooden wheels, smooth headliner, and a slightly larger body overall...yet both appear to be distinctly 1928 models. What other differences or benefits would someone know off... Would v. much like to locate a set of wire wheels for either car.... Thanks, Jay
  13. Hi, I sent you a PM, am in the area and would like to see your Dodge... Jay
  14. Route 50 traveling West from Keyser, WV. to Parkersburg, WV, turning left on Market St., and stopping for the night at the Blennerhassett Hotel. Could also start at Cumberland, Md, heading south along Rt 220.... The Blennerhassett - Historic Hotel in Parkersburg, West Virginia Blennerhassett Island Historical State Park Approx 168 mi. from Keyser to Parkersburg
  15. Fellas, I have my heart set on a 1928 Chrysler Series 72 Sport Roadster, but,,,I can't locate one for sale. I have driven a 1927 Roadster, which was fine, but that one got away... So, I have located a 1926 Series 70 Roadster, but just in the photos, this car seems to have a higher ride height, etc... Would someone spell out the differences between 1926 and 1928....I realize the engine produced more power, the interior dash bezel was v. art deco, but its the driveline/chassis differences that interest me most. Thanks, Jay