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Bob, I have sent you a message. You are very kind and I thank you very much. I had considered using .875"" brass tube with an .030" wall. The plan was to remove a strip .198" wide to give it the circumference of the .812" tube. It would be easier to re-roll on the .750" shaft since it would just need to be closed up. After pricing brass shim stock I found that the tube from on line metal was only $5.22 for a 10" to 12" random length. Terry

The original bushing/ bearing is a very thin brass sheet that is rolled to create the desired ID and OD. The dimensions that I took are correct. The wall thickness of the original is .031" . The bushings that are listed are cast and get weak when machined too thin. That may be the only option if originals are not available. Thank you, Terry

I am trying to replace the clutch and brake pedal bushings in a set of 35 Chrysler C-6 pedals. I believe that most of the Chrysler product used the same master cylinder/clutch and brake pedal assembly mounted to the frame if they had rubber motor mounts. I had a complete bracket assembly from a 35 Dodge that was the same. These are thin walled split bushings OD to fit .812" hole in pedal, ID to fit .750' shaft. The bushings are 1 3/4" long. I cannot find these. Does anyone know who sells these? There are a lot of these cars out there. Thanks Terry

The shape of the lights, the lenses and the broken die cast arms appear to be 1929 Dodge DA model after the switch from the earlier Two lite lenses.

I would like to buy 4 Dodge DA brake shoes for relining. Looking for good ones with no damage to the anchor pin holes or wallowed out rivet holes. Thanks, Terry

Have a new seat installed. If you don't you will not have confidence in the engine and that takes the fun out of it. You didn't spend all that money for that.

The trunk rack is not original for the 29-30 DA.

Bob, I have sent you a private message.

Bob, I can get you the pictures that you need tomorrow. I have all of the wooden tack strips. Terry

The puller that screws onto the hub is the safest to use. The 3 jaw puller can distort a pressed steel brake drum if the hub is really stuck on the tapered axle.

I have a Murray bodied Model A sedan. The brackets that you have pictured are the same as mine. They attach the rear seat backrest to the body wood.

The 29 dodge cars used a 6 cylinder engine. The photo shows a 4 cylinder VW distributor. It would take some serious machining to make that conversion and stock VW parts would be no help afterward.

Do you need a front or a rear wheel?

Commodor, Thank you for the link. Good solid information. Terry

I have two of these and I can find no information as to what cars used them. They are both Model 39A tanks. I have never seen this type of vacuum tank before. Can anyone shed some light on these for me?

Is there a number on the inside of the single clamp in the last photo?

The trunk lid support for my stock 1938 Ford coupe is missing. Does anyone have one for sale? I am not sure what it should look like. If anyone has a photo of the bracket I would appreciate a look. Thanks, Terry

These were used on my 29 Dodge DA 4 dr sedan. All of these pieces have 1/4-20 threads. The hex head bolts have the DB in a circle head stamp. I cleaned them and put them aside because of the pointed ends and the DB head stamp. Of course I figured that since they were special I would remember where they were used. That didn't work. Do these look familiar to any DA owners? Thanks Terry

JayG, I have the parts pictured. The 5 nuts are NOS. the leather washers are perfect.. The 4 covers are used but excellent with original plating. The single valve stem is 3and 3/16" long. All parts are marked Schrader. Everything shown $40.00 plus shipping. Thanks, Terry

I measured the Model A headlight conduits and they are too big in diameter to match the Dodge hardware but the horn conduit is 1/2" in diameter. My Ford is a 1930. I believe that the 1928-29 models used a longer horn conduit. I did not realize that the terminals were crimped on and not soldered. If that type of terminal is not available I will probably machine some up. That will be a while before I worry about headlights. Good luck, Terry

427v8, If you have the ends with the terminals you can rewire them. The flexible conduit is 1/2" diameter and I believe that you may get that from McMaster Carr. I was looking at mine tonight and while the conduits are bad the sockets are perfect. Reproduction Model A Ford headlight conduits are stainless steel. I don't know if they are long enough. I'll measure up a set tomorrow and get back to you. Terry

Gary, After rereading both patents it seems that the sending unit from the Wilcolator is the most appropriate. While the concept is correct in the first patent that you posted, it operates by vacuum only. No electrical current is used. The Wilcolater controls electrical current to accomplish the same end. Neither is a dead on match for what I have but if I found or fabricated a Wilcolater sending unit , it would operate the Flash semaphore gage that I have. Thanks again, Terry

OLDTINPUSHER, Did your DA have the original top material on it? I am trying to find how the top material was padded when it was stretched over the chicken wire and was the padding carried over the edges of the metal strips around the 4 sides. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Gary, I think that you have nailed it. Everything is explained well and it all relates to this gage. Even the part that explains that no power is used while the car is operating in the normal temperature range matches this gage. This is why there are two wires, one to each electromagnet. One to engage the cold side magnet the other to engage the hot side magnet. Now I need to reread this and understand how current to the cold side magnet was shut off when the engine was at operating temperature. Thank you very much for your efforts. You were a great help in solving this piece of obscure automotive history. Terry Kean

ply33 is correct, the 1943 date is the date of my Dykes encyclopedia. The gage is an aftermarket gage that was installed in the dash of my 29 Dodge. I don't know when it was installed. This appears to be some early automotive technology predating Bourdon Tube type gages and the newer type of electric temperature gages. It looks like it would be expensive to manufacture. I live near Chicago and plan on researching the Flash Semaphore Co. through the phone book archives at the downtown Chicago Public Library. Hopefully I can get a lead there as to where I might access business licenses from the 1920s. I have yet to find anyone who has even heard of this type of gage. I know that with todays technology it could be made to work, but from the technology available in the 1920s, I cant see how. Terry