60ch

Jason, I will post some pictures of the rods Thursday evening. Thanks, Terry

The battle goes good Jason. How are things in the warmer part of the country? I am sorting out a box of rods that I have had for a long time. Eight of the rods have the number 210200 on them. That is a DA number for the forging. I also have a few that have AC 42118 on them. They look the same as the DA rods but the numbers do not match anything in the books that I have. The plan was to get a set of six rebuilt to put together a standard bore DA block that I have. Just wondering what the AC rods came out of. Terry

What are the differences between the Victory, the DA and the Standard model connecting rods? Thanks, Terry

It is sad when any antique vehicle get butchered but to destroy something totally unique like a sleeve valved Willys is never justified, no way. I hope someone was at least able to save the engine and drive train. It's just a clown car now. Terry

Are these two tooth or seven tooth steering sectors? Thanks, Terry

Thanks guys, The jack in the trunk of the Ebay Desoto is a match. Strangely the paint on the Desoto matches the paint on the jack that I have, while the jack in the trunk is black. Terry

Can anyone identify this jack? It has an I-beam style vertical piece that has a spring loaded ball detent to lock it into the base. There are traces of blue/green paint. It is very heavy duty which makes me wonder if it was intended for something other than a car. It is dimensionally like any other bumper jack. I have no other parts for it. Thanks, Terry

The tag on my die cast North East distributor reads, Model TBU 1084? . The number after the 4 is not clear. The serial number is 329. The tag on my cast iron North East distributor reads, Model TBU 1084?. The number after the 4 is also not clear. The serial number is 1029. A website that advertises North East distributor caps shows Chrysler 1930 Model CJ with North East distributor 10849. Desoto 1929-30 with North East distributor 10849. Can you make out any of the model numbers on your distributors? The serial numbers are stamped, so the are clear. The others are painted and were easily lost. Thanks, Terry

Thanks Jason, Terry

Jason, I would appreciate it if you could find out what other cars used Northeast ignition systems. Thanks Terry:)

Can anyone tell me the background on the cast iron Northeast 6 cylinder distributors that show up every so often? Were these made before the change to potmetal or were they made as a replacement for the disintegrating potmetal distibutors? I have a U2 Stromberg carb that has a cast iron top. I was told that the cast iron topped U2 carb was used on Studebaker cars. Dodge used the less expensive potmetal top. Perhaps the cast iron Northeast distributor was used on another make of auto and Dodge used the potmetal version. None of my reference literature show Northeast distibutor applications for 1929 and earlier. Any thoughts? Terry

If you are going to use the air method to push the the dent out you will not fill the tank with water. You want air under the dent and water everywhere else. The idea is to get the air to push the dent only. Do not weld to the gas tank. modify a gas cap with an air fitting and make sure the vent is sealed in the cap. Position the tank so that the air is under the dent and slowly apply pressure. Tap around the edges of the dent to unlock the stress. This can be a dangerous proceedure since you have no way of knowing how thin the metal is in the tank. In my experience they rust the most on the bottom where you are dented. Your tank may be very thin there already. Consider leaving it as is or taking it to a professional. :eek: Be Carefull

Pits can be filled by electroplating with copper to fill the pits. The plating on the unpitted surfaces is polished off leaving the pits filled. Depending on the condition of the metal it can take several applications to bring the surface back to specification. If you have any critical surfaces, mounting holes machined bosses etc., you need to tell the plater so he can make sure that those dimensions are correct when he is finished. If you don't tell him you may not be able to assemble your parts when you get them back. The picture that you are showing looks like you will have no problem with plating. Good Luck, Terry

It always makes me wonder what people were thinking when they parked the way these old pictures show. There is a picture of Michigan Ave. in Chicago that was taken in 1928. The cars are bumper to bumper on both sides of the street. No way anyone could pull out unless they literally pushed the cars out of the way. Actually I can't even imagine how they parked that close in the first place. It's no wonder that good fenders are hard to find! :eek: Terry

I was figuring the same as you. Never would have guessed it would go for over twice that. Maybe there will be a glut of light switches on ebay now.

A while back there was quite a rant about inferior quality inner tubes. Is it safe to buy now? Any suggestions as to who has good ones? Thanks, Terry:confused:

1935 Ford 2 door sedan. the year was 1947. That Ford was traded in on a new 1951 Dodge wayfarer 2 door sedan.

A couple of photos of the brass fitting on a Kingston tank. Terry

I believe that the casting numbers on the DA model parts prefixed with 210.

I am looking for a 29 Dodge DA rear end housing but will buy a complete or incomplete rear end if need be. Hopefully one is available in the Midwest so I can pick it up. Here is your chance to get rid of some of that big iron that you have. :)Thanks ,Terry

:)Antique Auto Parts Cellar Phone 781- 335 -8860 email our32@aol.com

years ago someone screwed some sheet metal onto the boards to patch them up. The matting that I found underneath was a ribbed design, 3/8" wide raised ribs and a 3/16" wide groove between them. The matting has a cloth backing. Both the ribs and grooves are solid with no other markings. There are also pieces of rubber matting that are used between the sides of the front seat and the front doors. That matting has the same groove dimensions as the running boards but is thinner and has no backing. This was an original unrestored car but who knows what was changed over the years.

I second the Antique Auto Parts Cellar. His kits are designed to handle new fuels and they work really well. Instructions are clear. Lots of alcohol in the fuel here in the Midwest. I have had diaphrams desolve. Fuel pump parts from this man handle it.

I am looking for a duplicate of the original running board matting used on the 29' DA model. If anybody has any info on this I would appreciate the help. Thank You, Terry:confused:

The Model T fellows were referring to the original clamp in style of valve hardware. Back in the day when this type of hardware was used the inner tubes had alternating layers of rubber and canvas at the hole through which the metal stem was inserted and securely clamped. Today all of the inner tubes use vucanized tire valves be they rubber or brass. The only way that you will see original clamp in hardware is if someone cut off the rubber stem off and and put in the clamp in style valve. If you are fitting out a driver, you would be best to use the rubber stemmed inner tubes and top them off with the reproduction caps as mentioned by TonyAus. Good luck