60ch

ply33, I appreciate your help checking the parts books. The search continues. Thank you, Terry

Spinneyhill, The metal clamp may verywell be there to only retain the leather grease retainer. In the 1st photo I tried to show the order of assembly. 2nd photo shows asembled with ball stud and bottom race. You can see that there is a double step counter bore remaining above the bottom race. Most likely a bottom plate located there. 3rd photo shows grinding marks on the bottom of the forging where the bottom plate was removed. It appears that this was just like any other tie rod end. It has an expensive leather seal retainer clamp that was done away with. Interesting though, I have another tie rod end that has a leather boot that is swaged in place. Perhaps it was the next evolution in leather seal design. My 29 Dodge has no seals externally as these do. Things evolved rapidly in the late 20's and 30's. It is a shame that these cannot be identified. Thank you, Terry

Spinneyhill, Bolt taper--- large dia.-- .683" small dia.-.600" distance between-- .780" Threaded end---.500"-20 TPI Is this a 3° taper? The threaded bore for the tie rod is .810" ID. with 16 TPI. The only choice from the charts for the actual tie rod is .875"-16 TPI. I hope this helps and I surely do appreciate your help. Thank you,Terry

I picked up three of these years ago but never knew what car they were for. They are marked as a Chrysler product and the part number is showing in the first photo. All three are the same and although shelfworn they are NOS. I'm hoping that someone can use them. Thanks, Terry

Restoration Specialties has what you need. Terry

PFitz, Thank you for the photos and the explanation on the hidem. A hugh help for me and I"m sure others. Terry

PFitz, Did you use a material folder to form the black hidem as you did the sewing? I am trying to reproduce the hidem used on the front seat side wings of my 29 DA dodge. I have a compound feed Consew machine but I cannot fit enough fingers into the the work space to get the consistancy needed for a nice job. Thank you, Terry

Wood wheels were an aftermarket item available for model A Fords. Very scarce. Have only seen pictures of them. I suspect that the wheels on that car are not wood, but something else.

Research this model car, past sale prices, parts wanted and parts for sale. Research the brake system. Is it mechanical or hydraulic, what is available? Is the body wood framed? You usually can't see the wood framing but it is very difficult to repair unless you are a serious wood worker. Right now it looks beautful, the interior is very nice as is the outside but unless you know Grahams or know someone that does, you are flying blind. A car is only worth what someone is wiilling to pay. You will be paying for it. Due dilligence is required. I don't think that you could do a frame off restoration for $20,000 today on any car even if you learned all of the skills required. If you buy it you may become the official Graham garu on this site. Good luck.

How is the strap length determined to correctly set up these shocks on a car? I have no complete original straps but I do have all of the hardware. I had thought that with the car on flat pavement, the shock arms would be parallel to the pavement and the straps adjusted to hold them in that position. The strap material is expensive so I thought it best to ask. Thank you, Terry

Stuart, I have a bracket that looks like the one you need. If you are still looking, check these photos and let me know. Thank you, Terry

Spinneyhill, I cant find any identification of the manufacturer but you are correct about the lock ring land. I had originally intended to use the Lock ring on my 29 Dodge. I thought that they were all the same. I was surprised when I got the ring off. It is a really nice wheel and lock ring, no dents or bad rust issues. It is a heavy wheel, way heavier than the Dodge Budd wheel.

Looks like a military tail light lens and rim. At one time it was olive drab in color.

Thanks to all of you that replied. Checking the buick photos, It looks lke the rim is for a Buick. A friend had this by his barn. I noticed the lock ring and that it was a 19" wheel and thinking that the lock ring would fit my 29 Dodge, he gave me the wheel. I found that the lock ring was different than the ones used on the Dodge. I will post it in the Buick section. I hope someone can use it.

Mark, Maybe you know some other Pierce Arrow owners that have wire wheels. Keep me in mind. Thanks for your reply. Terry

Can anyone identify this wheel. 19", 6 lug holes on 6 1/2" centers, 8 1/2" hubcap opening, 40 spokes laced through the hub, welded to the rim. Lock ring mounts to the outside of the wheel. This wheel had a 6:50 X 19" tire on it. Thank you.

I need to store a restored car outside on a concrete driveway for about 4 months. Can anyone suggest a manufacturer of well made water proof custom made covers?

Thank you all for your very helpful replies. Terry

Does anybody know what the angle of taper the Chrysler corporation used on the rear axles of their cars? Was the taper the same for all of the cars? Thanks, Terry

Have any of the 29-30 DA owners ever used the Ammco model 1750 brake gage on the rear brakes of their DAs? I have used this gage effectively on the front brakes on my DA but unless the gage is modified I can't see it fitting over the threads or taper of the rear axles. If anyone has devised a way to use the tool please let me know. These are high dollar tools and I don't want to make any permanent changes. Thanks, Terry

Do you have any part numbers for the shocks you are looking for? Several cars could use the same shock hydraulic unit but may have a different supplemental bracket for attachment.

Bullfrog and Bob, Thanks for the info.The order is in

Can anybody tell me where to get reproduction dash knob labels or decals for the four dash pulls on the DA? Thanks, Terry

What is the condition of the drums and backing plates and what is the price?

Bob, I received the bushing yesterday and it fits perfectly. You did an outstanding job. Thanks again, Terry