60ch

I am setting the ring and pinion in my 29 Dodge. I cannot find a source for the paste used to set the tooth contact pattern. I have Prussian Blue but it is dark and hard to read. Many of the articles and videos on the net show a bright yellow paste being used but do not say where it can be bought. Any ideas? Thank you, Terry

;)No disrespect intended nor implied here. You want people to perceive this car as a professional restoration . While the tires on the car may be bias ply as the originals, they are the lowest priced budget tire available for the Model A Ford. Invest in a set of Firestones or Goodyear Diamond Treads as were original equipment on these Fords. Some may question the quality of a professional restoration if they see that a major detail like tires was not addressed properly. Best of luck with your sale

Ford used the same type of enclosed driveshaft from 1928 to1948. There is an overdrive made by Mitchell that is specifically for these vehicles. You keep your original gearing gearing in the rear end. The unit comes with a new modfied driveshaft and torque tube with the overdrive unit mounted inline to those parts. Look them up on the net. I have several friends that use them and like them. Might be what you want. Good luck.

The glass can be cut from safety glass stock at pretty much any glass and mirror shop. Check the dimensions of the original seat location. The Model A Ford roadster lower seat cushion is going to be close to what you need. They are available at places like Snyders that specialize in antique Ford parts. If you call and give them the measurements they can check for you. You can get any tire that you need from Coker tire. All of this is available on line. When you get to the stuff like brake drums , specialized mechanical parts and sheet metal you would do well to join one of the clubs. Good luck with your Dodge.

I was traveling north on RT 31 just South of Ludington Michigan and saw this. I thought that someone here might like to see the photos. As it sits it is missing the radiator, starter and the drivers side hood side panel. It was converted into a camper long ago. Enjoy, Terry

Up all the way, retarded

Thanks for the reply. I have been waiting patiently for that information;)

Can anyone tell me if the overdrive equiped 1935 and 36 Chrysler Airstream cars used any other engine/transmission mounting supports besides the rear engine mounts on the crossmember? The R-1 overdrive and transmission combination seems like a lot of iron to be hanging off of the bell housing without additional support.:confused:

Jason, send me a picture of what you have. I can help you. Don't cut anything, I would rather do the fitting myself. Terry

I am trying to find information on the DA inner axle seals. These are not the steel cased leather ones the bolt on with the brake backing plate but the ones that go behind the double row axle bearings to keep the differential oil away from the axle bearings. What have people been using? Is there a cross reference? Thanks Terry :confused: DBC#1072

Check out the Dodge Brothers forum there is something there posted by 1930 that will interest you. It is on the 1st page. Good luck, Terry:)

Google Antique auto Parts Cellar. He rebuilds motor mounts. I had some done by him and was very pleased with the results. Good luck, Terry

The experiences that I have had with club technical advisors and club members have been very rewarding for me. The 1929 DA Tech Advisor Harry Reding spent a good deal of time helping me with seat spring dimensions and wheel stud information, so much so that I felt that I was imposing on him. When I finally met Harry at Kokomo he assured me that I was not a bother and introduced me to other club members that had DA models and would also be able to help me. I can't say enough good about him. The article written by Jack Carpenter in the club magazine on building a working gas gage for the DA model was outstanding. I also met him at Kokomo where he went into more detail for me. When nearchoclatetown had Da waterpump packin nut wrenches made up, I thought that that was a pretty nice gesture to make them available to us. I also met him at Kokomo. These guys are all real people and are part of a large group of very helpful individuals and I thank them all. Nuff said. Terry

The instruction book for the 1929 Dodge DA reads on page 71, "The rear shoe of each pair (of shoes) is provided with a shorter facing than the forward shoe. This is a precaution against squealing of the brakes when applied". The photo on page 68 shows both facings or linings to be the same length. Does anyone have any info on just how long the rear facing was as compared to the front facing? From the locations of the rivet holes in the shoes, it could be just a little shorter to a lot shorter. was it short on the top of the shoe or the bottom?:confused: A later service manual for 1934-36 Chryslers also states basically the same thing. It also does not give any information as to what the difference is. Any thoughts would be appreciated, Terry

The choke that you have uses current from the starter switch terminal to energize the electro magnetic solenoid in the round part of the automatic choke assembly. This operates the linkage that closes the choke butterfly on your carb. The heat from the exhaust manifold is what makes the bimetalic spring open the choke as it heats up. That is why the choke is mounted on the exhaust manifold. Over time the heat eventually destroys the insulation on the magnet wire and the electro magnet shorts out and the choke will not energize. I am playing with one of mine now attempting to rewind the electromagnet. Terry

Phil, Welding cast iron is not really difficult you just need to understand what is going on. Welding an ear onto and exhaust flange is easy because the ear is able to shrink as the weld cools. If you are welding welding in any area that is not free to shrink on cooling you will get cracks unless you preheat, then weld while maintaining the preheat and slow cool the part. Some people slow cool by wrapping the part in a fireproof blanket or by burying it in sand. Those that can put the part in the oven and turn the heat down gradually over a period of hours. The part is then left to cool down in the oven with the oven shut off. I have brazed engine blocks and head castings successfully but once built up an ear on a small block exhaust manifold. After a few years I could see that the cast iron was deteriorating at the braze joint. I am not really sure why. It was as if the high heat at the exhaust flange was contributing to electrolisis. Just be careful. When in doubt, preheat . Terry

This is very interesting to read about. I hope it works out for you. The laws differ greatly from state to state . To hear a success story would be a pleasant surprise. Please do keep us posted. Terry

I had never heard of John Dillinger's Model A before this. Was'nt one of his claims to fame a letter to Henry Ford complimenting Ford on the virtues of the V8 ? Why would Dillinger, public enemy #1, drive out of state in a Model A when he already had full knowledge and first hand experience with the performance advantages of the V8 Ford ? Terry

When I restored my 1930 sedan I bought reproduction sockets for the headlights. They were a waste of money. I restored a set of original sockets and have had no trouble since. That was 21 years ago. The original sockets fit correctly and properly restored work like they were designed to. What more could anyone ask for? Terry

I am trying to find 4 wire wheel lug nuts for my 1929 DA Dodge. These are 9/16-18 left hand thread as indicated by the "L" on the top of the nut as shown in the picture. They use a 3/4" wrench on the flats. If you only have 1 or 2 that will help. Thank you, Terry

I took some pictures of a foot rest that I have. This is what you are looking for. I think that you can look for the original screw holes in the floor to get the original length that you need. I was not aware that there were three lengths. This one is from a 1929 DA 4 dr. deluxe sedan. Hope this helps you out. Terry

There are a lot of Model A experts out there. I am not one of them. The 1928 Model A Roadster is much lighter in weight than a 1930 wood framed Murray Town Sedan. They will not have the same top end, period. Using a dyno to figure your top end is theoretical at best unless it can adjust for the aerodynamics of the car at speed in real world conditions. Spinning your wheels in place means nothing. The Model A driven at speeds in excess of 60 mph for extended periods is destroying its center main. While the brakes properly tuned will lock up the wheels with no problem, they will not take many hard stops before showing signs of brake fade. That is the nature of pressed steel drums. The point that I am trying to make here is not that they are not great cars. It is that people should not tell others that they can run at todays highway speeds and expect brakes to perform at todays standards. Someone with no mechanical ability or common sense may believe you and get killed. I have owned my Model A since 1963, I do know a little about them but like I said , I'm not an expert.

Jason, I have never been able to find a photo of a DA with disc wheels. Where did you see one? Terry

Were you able to get exact reproductions of the spokes? About three years ago when I started to work on my wheels I called around and nobody had replacements that were heavier gage on the ends and thinner along the center of the spoke as are my originals. I would really be interested in replacing mine, even the "good ones". Lacing and truing wheels is not that difficult if you have good spokes and nipples. A decent rim also helps. In my opinion the 60 spoke Budd with the outside lock ring is the best looking wheel out there. You will have a real sense of accomplisment when you are done. Good luck. Terry

I have laced and trued many motorcycle wheels successfully. My experiences with the 1929, 60 spoke Budd wheel have not been encouraging. I am not going to say that you can or cannot do the job because it will depend on how good the wheel is that you are starting with. I wll list the problems that I encountered, you can get an idea what you might encounter. If the spoke threads and nipples are badly rusted you may not be able to get the nipple to unscrew from the spoke. The spokes have no bend angle at the hub so they are free to rotate in the hub. Using heat to break the rust bond at he nipple may weaken the threaded part of the spoke causing it to twist instead of unscrew. This happened to me after I heated the nipple and held the spoke with vise grips to keep it from rotating. Some spokes came apart, some did not. Even if the spokes did come apart and I removed the rust from the outside threads of the spokes and the inside of the nipples I was left with rough surfaces that were inconsistant from spoke to spoke. This made the assembly and trueing a challenge. I used a nipple wrench because they have the most bearing surface on the nipple and will not round off the corners. You may lose a few spokes in the process. If you have spares then it is not a problem. If you don't, you may want to make sure that you have access to some before you start. Did your wheels came from the dry California desert or were they sunk to the axles in a flooded valley in Minnesota is what is going to determine your success rate. The torque specification in inch pounds or foot pounds will be the least of you concerns. Hope that you can get something from this ramble.. Terry