buick5563

Dude, You need to hurry up. Payton is growing before our eyes! For real though, did you make your fuel lines, or if not, where did you get them?

Didn't get too much done today, but I did cut out the frame number stencil. Couldn't wait to see it: Yes, it's supposed to be upside down.

Mechanically, there is no reason why your (future?) car can't be driven everyday or over long distances if it is checked out/ rebuilt/ maintained well. All of the maintenance parts and many rebuild parts are available. You keep mentioning convertible vs. sedan. Just so you know, technically, a sedan has a pillar going up the middle of the car between the doors. A HARDTOP has a hard roof but no pillar. In other words, when the front and rear windows are down, you can wave your hand from windshield to back glass. Why do I tell you this? Because it is an important distinction to make when asking about parts. A two door hardtop shares many parts with a convertible. A sedan has a different windshield, doors, and most likely floors than a convertible. Also, you need to know whether you have a large or small series car. Other than mechanical parts, with very few exceptions, there is NO similarity in body panels, glass, etc. Sorry if it seems basic, I just wanted to make sure you knew the difference. Good luck

:eek: is right !!!

+1

Yep. Check your insurance on everything. Cars, TRAILERS, house. We need to be prepared. Take it from me.

Or barbecue if he heads WAY south

Sid, I meant to ask you this in person last week: What do truckers call it when you flash lights for "all clear, c'mon over"? I imagine flashing means something different.

Here: http://forums.aaca.org/f115/texas-road-warriors-taking-aim-ames-285783.html I had this problem, too... BUT Willie rebuilt my original fuel pump, maybe that is the problem.

I just went on YouTube and searched for classic-windshield-installation. There are plenty available. I just watched one with Dennis Gage and the owner of Steele Rubber. They didn't use any pookie at all. I know mine leaks even after using it...take that as you will

I should have stated that differently. I haven't seen a video on YouTube, I just figured there had to be one. Every time I have needed to do something new, I always check there first. At a glass (windshield) place, they have a sealer meant specifically for this purpose. When I did my 55, I helped the body guy who also did glass for a living so we used their stock. The last time I did it in a 1947 Spartan travel trailer, I borrowed a can (from a different friendly glass shop) with the "gun" attached. This gun looks like an old timey oil squirt gun with a trigger. You may get lucky and not have to leave a deposit since they rarely use these anymore. If I'm not mistaken, the new rubber is thicker, meaning you don't need the spacers. I know I didn't use any. Taking the windshield out is fast, like under an hour. Installing takes longer scratching your head, fretting about it than it does to do it...maybe a couple of hours? Just for a bit of clarification, you install the rubber around the glass with the pookie first, then use soapy water to lube the outer channel, along with aforementioned string, THEN once it is in, pookie the pinch weld side. Sorry for neglecting that in my previous post. Somebody please jump in here if I am leading Jim astray.

This!

Cut the gasket around the pinchweld all the way around. The windshield comes out easily with two people. When installing, you may need to install the header stainless first before installing the windshield/ gasket. I assisted with the installation on mine. Make sure they (or you) liberally coat the windshield and pinchweld grooves with gasket sealer (not silicone) or it will leak. If you decide to do it yourself, watch a video on YouTube to see how other people have done it. It honestly isn't that hard to do if you have patience and assistance. Good luck

Rich, Between you and Mudbone, I'm just trying to keep up. Welcome back.

Joe, First a hybrid. Then this suggestion? Go ahead young one! Great idea btw

You might have shaken something loose. Maybe you should have that checked out

No coverage from homeowners, USAA, or Hagerty. Basically, I'm out $3k. So what this should tell all of you reading this, is check your coverage on everything. I blew it, lesson learned.

Welcome back Rich, we've missed you around here

Man, that hogs! Sorry Iowa brethren

Dave, The frame crossmember you are talking about, is that the one the trans bolts to? I think I removed mine to change the angle of the entire driveline. If you are hitting the back, I'm not sure what to do. Great looking Invicta BTW

Why? They have alternators that look original if that is the concern, but if you bagged the suspension anyway, it is already altered.

In my experience (granted, in earlier year models) you have to pull the rear end WAY back. The springs will not need to be removed but everything else will from the diff. Shocks, sway bar, etc. You may need a come-along strapped to a heavy (immovable) object like a truck bumper, frame, etc. Keep tryin', it's nice to have a dry Dynaflow, and it IS possible!

Scrap metal trailer- $250 or $500 trade-in. Tahoe- TBD as yet.

Then Buke will get it again!

Willie beats me by 60 miles every year! Stupid 60 miles!