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About buick4547

  • Birthday 07/20/1945

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  1. I'm going to take a shot here. Does anyone have a line on the where abouts of a new old stock oil gauge for my 1939 special. It is giving me some whacky readings. It reads at just a hair above zero when the engine is running at optimum temperature. I have tested the actual oil pressure by hooking up an auxiliary gauge to it and it shows the engine running at about 45 pounds at normal use, which according to the shop manual, is about right. I know that I could take the gauge out to have it reconditioned, and I may, but I thought I'd look for a NOS first. Thanks.
  2. Thanks to everyone for their response to my original post. The bias ply tires I have now really haven't given me many problems, and other than catching them in a crack in the road from time to time, I haven't had much in the way of handling problems. And as some have said, a prewar car like my '39 really does have to be driven with some care and alertness. I don't drive it much faster than 55-60 MPH, and I'm always conscious of who and what is around me. Rarely am I on an interstate highway, and I would be avoiding interstates whether I had bias ply or radials. I think 61Polara, Daves 1940 Buick 56, and West Peterson have convinced me to stay with bias ply. And as a final thought, I never thought about the radial bulge that results from using radials. I don't like that aesthetic problem.
  3. Well, this is the spring I replace my 15 year old tires on my '39 special.. I'm debating bias ply versus radials. I have bias ply now. Which do others prefer, and what are the pitfalls in switching to radials?
  4. Does anyone know of a portable power bank and jump starter for a six volt system? There are plenty on the market for 12 volt systems, but I have yet to see one for a six volt system or 6/12 volt combined.
  5. Thanks to all for their reply. Dot 3 and a good flushing it will be!
  6. My stop light switch quits working every three years or so. I install a new one and it works fine for a few years than stops working and then the cycle continues. I think I once saw a post that stated that the failure had to do with the switch not compatible with modern brake fluids. Is this true or did i just dream it? Thanks
  7. Nope, a whole lot further north of that.
  8. Okay, thanks for the info, fins, and I'm glad I could provide some entertainment. I had read in other forums where some guys were not to thrilled with Dynaflows, but maybe they were folks that just got stuck with a lemon or tired transmissions. Wikipedia, (for what they know), says that Dynaflow was an option on 1949 Buick Supers as an all encompassing statement. I guess that means convertibles too. While we are on the subject, where is the serial number located on this car-firewall? frame? door post? I'm assuming it was used to register the title. I don't think VIN numbers appeared until the 60's. Its kind of important information for me to know. Thanks
  9. Good answers is right. I feel much better now. Pictures will be forth coming as soon as I get it. Thank you all for the responses. Jim
  10. I'm currently looking to purchase a 1949 Super Convertible which has had an older restoration but appears to be in good condition. I'd say between a number 3 and 2 condition. The car does have Dynaflow and I prefer it did not. According to the seller, he has not done any overhaul of the transmission because he has not had a problem with it and did not feel an overhaul was warranted. The car has 72000 miles. I have read in forums where Dynaflows do not, to say the least, have a good reputation. What are you guy's opinion on this, and what can I expect, and also what is the going rate to have a Dynaflow overhauled now a days? Also, the gas gauge does not work. This is a problem I had with my '39, but I was able to fix by repairing a bad ground. The seller did replace the sending unit a few years ago and it did work for some years. But, I'd assume that the sending unit is the culprit, if not a ground problem, or possibly the gauge itself is defective. Any thoughts on this, and how hard is it to get to the gauge, I already know that I'll have to drop the tank if it requires a new sending unit. Other than these two items, I don't see any other problems with the car, although obviously 64 year old cars can have their issues - just like people! thanks, Jim
  11. If I remember correctly, I bought some of those knobs from Al Bell of Sarasota, Fla. I think he passed on, but his company still exists at the following site: 1955 Buick Gas Gauge Dash Unit, Works items in Bell Buick Parts store on eBay! Worth a try. Jim
  12. This would be great to use working under my '39.......................!! An electric driven hydraulic chair.
  13. Grant thanks, but now a follow-up Question: Is there a diaphram type of starter switch, and is there a Bakelite type of starter switch, (2 different types of switches possible on a '39 )? Because I think mine is the Bakelite type without a diaphram . Or have I confused you by the question? I visit the state of confusion quite often myself.
  14. Whoa, that's a good looking plate, not to mention the fine Buick attached to it! I'd leave it as it is. Jim
  15. Well with the help of a good friend Tom, who also has a '39 as well as a "54 Super, we were able to install a new Temp gauge in my '39 Special. I replaced the one I mentioned on this forum a couple of weeks ago. The original gauge had "retired" for no apparent reason, except for old age. It was somewhat of a hassel to install the new gauge requiring Tom to wedge himself between the front seat and firewall while trying look up and behind the dash to unscrew the old pod which contains the temp and oil gauges, and then returning them to the backside of the dash after we had installed the new temp gauge in the pod. Tom was chosen for this annoying task because he is somewhat thinner than me - ample girth has its advantages at times! The new gauge works in a stellar fashion. I do have another problem, however. At times the starter refuses to do anything at all. Then, at other times it performs well and as intended by Buick. There are those times when you flip the ignition switch on, press the accelorator and nothing happens. Then all of a sudden on the third or fourth try it works fine. And then some days I have no problem at all, each start is perfect. I suspect the starter switch at the carbureator may be the culprit because when it doesn't start, as a last resort, I can place a jumper wire via alligator clips from the positive side of the battery to the left side of the switch, (driver's side), and the starter turns over as it should and the car starts. So, what do you think? I'm sure Grant or Danny will be able to diagnose this situation easily. As always, thanks for your help, Jim
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