Joseph P. Indusi

See photos that show correct installation of coil spring. When hot box is cold and you push weight on firewall side down to open valve the coil spring will resist your movement. When hot the coil spring will relax and the weight will drop by gravity and open valve. In first photo exhaust pipe would bolt to right side and left side on second photo. Joe, BCA 33493

You need to follow up on this. When hot, the weight on the arm on the firewall side should be down toward the block and the anti rattle spring should be free and extended so that the valve is fully open. If the anti rattle spring does not allow the valve to fully open, then you can stretch it a little. Joe

With the engine hot, the themostatic coil spring on the front side of the hot box will unwind a little allow the weight to drop by gravity opening the valve. I say opening because the exhaust gases are then routed straight out to the exhaust pipe and not through the intake manifold plenum under the base of the carburetor. Just be sure the valve can open all the way when hot; this is most important. When cold the anti-rattle spring never really exerts any tension and it commonly just sits there to prevent the valve from rattling open and partially shut. Keep us posted. Joe, BCA 33493

I have a Handy Spot for my 53 Special that is 6 volt and made by Guide. Not sure on the exterior mounted Safety Light. Joe, BCA 33493

From my experience this measurement is not critical. You could probably use any steel corner brace from a hardware store by just enlarging the hole for the manifold to exhaust pipe bolt. Think of an "L" shaped bracket with 1 inch along each side. You can stretch of compress the anti-rattle spring to where the valve is full open when hot. Joe, BCA 33493

Beautiful oil filter canister. All you need now is to affix the correct decal. Looks great! Joe, BCA 33493

Some will have the slots for the hubcap clips and some wheels have the clips already on. The ones with the clips are likely to be wheels from older models. The wheel size should be 6X15. Joe, BCA 33493

The "J" bars on the back bumper look pretty nice in this photo. Thanks for posting. Joe

For the housing I used Plasti-kote Engine Enamel GM Corporate Blue, No. 221, probably what Ben is referring to. For the top I found a color very close to the Chevy engine color; Krylon Pumpkin Orange Gloss No. 2411. Joe, BCA 33493

This problem can also occur on the straight eight engines. I had to discard an intake manifold off of a 248 cubic inch straight eight from the late 1940's. There is a plenum at the base of the manifold under the carburetor where exhaust gas circulates to heat the carburetor base to help warm the carburetor during startup in cold weather. In this particular manifold the wall in the casting separating the exhaust plenum and the intake section had rusted through so exhaust gases could enter the intake manifold: as Willie says, it created it's own EGR system. This could be very hard to diagnose as the cause of poor performance. To test a manifold for this defect, on a level table turn the manifold upside down so the carburetor opening is facing the table. Now pour water into the exhaust plenum and see if water runs out of any of the four intake tubes or the carburetor opening. If it does then the portion of the casting separating the exhaust plenum from the intake section is defective. The manifold could still be used by fabricating a steel plate to block off the exhaust plenum from the valve body (hot box). However, there may be other defects in the casting given this defect. Joe, BCA 33493

The Buick convertible does look like a 1948 model, possibly a 1947 model as they are nearly identical in outward appearance. However, this car could not be a Special as there were no Special convertibles in 1947 and 48. It is a Super as the script on the right side front fender indicates it is a Super. Great looking car. Thanks for posting. Joe, BCA 33493

I asked about the water pump lube because I heard a squeaking sound that turned out to be the fan belt. Rubbed the side of the belt with a candle and it quieted down. So now not sure if I need the water pump lube... Does it really lube the pump? I always thought so but why do none of the parts stores carry it in stock anymore? Joe, BCA 33493

In the past, whenever I flushed the cooling system and renewed the antifreeze mixture, I always added a can of water pump lubricant. Major parts suppliers do not stock it any longer. Is there anything like this available today or are the new antifreeze formulations such that it is no longer needed? I know GM used to sell a water pump lubricant in a can to add to the radiator. Joe, BCA 33493

In my experience with straight eights, it is better to leave it "open" allowing exhaust gases to go directly out exhaust pipe if you cannot free it up. This will be fine in most instances unless the temperature goes lower than 50 F in which case there may some icing on throttle plate and a little longer warmup will be needed. Joe, BCA 33493

Many automatic transmissions had a carburetor linkage, such as on the Hydramatic equipped Oldsmobiles and Cadillacs but this Buick only has the shift linkage to contend with. I have had mine for 15 years or so and it always attracts attention wherever I take it. Mine has Dynaflow and Power Steering. Joe

Thanks for answering that question Ben. I never saw one like that before! And yes, I remember push starting cars was common back then. Joe, BCA 33493

Now I see why I used to use the old style stuff on thermostat gaskets and elsewhere. Thanks for all the advice. Joe

I used to use the old Indian Head shellac type gasket sealer, but what is the best of the newer ones, the black or blue or other? Joe, BCA 33493

I will check my jack for my 1953 Special to see if looks like the photos you posted. Joe, BCA 33493

Lamar: I checked both of my old parts books and here is what I found. Group 8.820 Part 1391228, Jack, Auto (Complete), 1953/All This number is 1953 only. There is also listed in same Group: Load Member - Auto Jack, Part 1163365 for Walker, 1953/All Load Member - Auto Jack, Part 1163356 for Auto Specialties, 1953/All Any idea what a "Load Member" is? Possibly the straight steel upright member that supports the weight? Hope this helps. Joe, BCA 33493

If you have a signal tracer, see if you are getting a signal at all on a strong AM station. If so, try to move forward toward the audio and output section. This may not be easy without a schematic. If somebody monkeyed with the speaker wires or power input, the problem may be in the transistors in the output stage. Also cannot rule out faulty capacitors. Good luck. Joe, BCA 33493

One of the best collector car magazines I know of. Pete and Lamar and the other contributors are making the Bugle what it is; a great source of information for all Buick owners. My hat is off to Pete and his collaborators for consistently providing a great product. Joe , BCA 33493

I used to push with my car and then hit the brakes while blowing my horn. The car in front being pushed would put the car in Low or Drive upon hearing my horn blow and hopefully start the engine. I avoided damage to my front by this procedure. Joe

When the vehicle achieves a suitable speed, with the gear sector moved to D, the rear pump can supply enough fluid pressure to engage the clutch pack and this , now being connnected to the input shaft can drive the turbine of the torque converter and the engine so that as noted above the car can be push started. If the car is pushed to a suitable speed and the gear selector is then placed in L or Low, then the fluid pressure will apply the Low band and this will engage the turbine and again the car can be push started. I assume the automatic transmissions of the 1950's had rear pumps for several reasons, one being to allow for push starting that I recall was common back then given there were no alternators on these cars.

I am not an expert, but based on my understanding of the older Dynaflows, the L and R gears use bands and these are activated by front pump derived oil pressure. When starting in D, the front pump supplies fluid under pressure for the clutches or clutch pack. After a certain speed is reached, the rear pump, driven by the Dynaflow rear output shaft supplies the fluid pressure. Note that the rear pump cannot develop pressure if the car is not moving at a suitable speed. So starting from a standstill in D requires the front pump to supply the fluid pressure. My guess is that there may be several problems, but the primary issue is likely the clutch assembly, possibly the friction plates. Joe, BCA 33493