Joseph P. Indusi

I have used hydraulic jack oil for over 25 years and it seems to work very well. It is available in most retail parts stores and is reasonably priced. Joe, BCA 33493

MrEarl: Thanks for your offer to help. This forum is a great fraternity of people who seek to help others and you have so often set the example. I look forward to your PM. Joe

Thanks to all who responded. I have the 1953 BPSB and am familiar with the change in the plug. I have the later plug with the thicker base. The parts book shows a kit that includes the plug and a leather gasket and this would seem to imply that the threaded shank is a machine thread and is not tapered. I just don't know for sure. Joe

I need a new or better rear end fill plug and posted on Buy/Sell. Does anybody know the thread size on this plug in the hopes of finding a generic new plug as I think this is a rare part. Joe BCA 33493

Plug on my car pretty beat up and would like to get a new or better one. Parts book says should be the same 1953-56. PM if you can help. Thanks. Joe, BCA 33493

MrEarl: The BUICK parts book shows 2 part numbers for these wheel covers. From my experience the color on the round backing panel behind the spokes is commonly black but I have seen red and also the stainless you mention above. I think only black and stainless were factory supplied while the red may have been done by a restorer to match the common red wheels. Joe

In 1953, Buick offered wire wheel hubcaps or wheel covers, similar in appearance to the Oldsmobile wire wheel covers. There were two very similar wheel covers offered; one for the Super and Roadmaster models and one for the Specials. The main difference is that the center cap for the large car wheel covers was decorated with a large V to symbolize the V-8 engine that these cars came with. The wheel covers for the Special had the Buick Coar-of-Arms in color in the center cap. This is the most obvious difference, however, there is another difference and that is in the depth or height of the wheel covers. The covers for the Special models is not as high or deep as that for the larger cars. You can install the Special wheel covers on the larger cars but there will be a noticeable gap where the wheel cover meets the outside edge of the wheel rim. These are good looking wire wheel covers, I have a set for my 53 Special, but I have noticed that the wheel balance suffers with these installed since the wheels are balanced without the wheel covers. There were wheel balance machines back in the day that remained on the car while the mechanic balanced the wheel, wheel cover, and brake drum, essentially the entire assembly. But I always thought these were dangerous because the wheel cover could break lose from the wheel while the assembly was spinning at high speed. Finally, these 53 Buick wire Wheel covers are very hard to find today and are expensive if in good condition. The ones I have are reconditioned originals. I had to buy 6 to make 4 good ones. There are other later model Buick wire wheel covers that might work for you and these will likely be more plentiful and at lower cost. Joe, BCA 33493

A co-worker of mine , a physicist, had a pre-med roommate in college many years ago. He said his roommate told him that as they were nearing graduation to become MD's, one of their professors told them to buy a Buick when they opened their practice. A Cadillac would infer that their fees for medical service were too high and anything under a Buick might raise suspicion that the young physician was not successful. The hierarchy of the GM line was largely due to Alfred P. Sloane Jr., chairman and CEO of GM for many years. He stated that GM had a car for every purse and purpose. The other US Manufacturers essentially copied GM in their product lines. Joe, BCA 33493

Follow-up. I have the back cover with the raised section for the ring gear. Before draining the lube (85/90 GL4 from about 3 years ago) I calibrated a plastic jug to catch the drained lube. It measured just about 4 pints. So I refilled with the 85W-140 GL5 Valvoline dino and will drive it some in the next few days. Thanks for all the responses. Joe

My parts book for 1942 to 1956 under Group 3.158 lists Fuel Feed Pipe, but this may include hoses as well. In any case, they list Part 1169718 for 1956 All. I have checked my other references and I cannot tell if the part above is a pipe or a hose. Joe

Some additional data from the 52 Shop manual and the 53 Product Service Bulletin. It seems the original fill for the rear axle was 3 pints. In these references they indicate that differential with the numerically lower axle ratios should be filled with 4 pints of lube requiring that the back cover be rotated one hole higher. Then in 53 early production they came out with a new back cover with the raised section for the ring gear. The 4 pints will bring the lube to near the bottom of the axle shafts. Joe, BCA 33493

Congratulations Ben on a great write up. It takes technical knowledge, writing skills and many hours of work to produce this kind of product. I and many others enjoyed reading your work. I am glad that you have received this recognition. Joe Indusi

The interior of the dome light on my 53 Special is painted white, not the socket, just the interior frame or body to which the socket is mounted. Haven't looked inside my tail light assemblies to check, perhaps just unpainted. Joe

If the internal reflector in a car light is rusted or soiled, clean it and then spray with white paint. I have noticed that many of the old car lights had internal reflectors that were painted white. If I recall from physics, white will reflect all wavelengths of light. Joe

The timing index mark on my 53 Special looks like the small point in your photo that I drew your attention to. The illustration in the shop manual is just that, an illustration and not a photo of the timing index mark. Paint that point with some white paint and paint the advance mark on the flywheel and with a good timing light you should see both. I find that when I work under the hood of the Buick I use a pallet that is about 4-5" high so I can see and reach things better. At 5'9" in height I am not short but these old cars were much higher off the ground than today's cars. Let us know how you make out. Joe

I see a small bubble of metal with a point on the end just above your yellow arrow in the photo. With a small screwdriver touch this gently to see if it is just some debris or if it is immovable. If the latter, apply some white paint to the pointed tip and proceed to hook up your timing light to check the timing. Sometimes the marks on the flywheel are not easy to find and you may have to remove the bottom cover on the bell housing to locate them. That point I describe above may just be the index mark. An alternative may be to use a vacuum gauge to time the engine and some old-timers swear by that method. Joe

Thanks to all who responded. I was able to find Valvoline 85W-140 in non-synthetic so I think this will work for me. The rear is original and has not been rebuilt but I made a vent by drilling a hole through an aluminum bolt and use this on the back cover near the top but not in line with the ring gear. I agree with Bernie that rear end service and lube is important but rarely given a thought. Joe

I did some more reading and it seems that synthetic gear oil for differentials out performs the regular types. For such a small quantity it will not be too expensive to use Mobil 1 synthetic 75W-90 in the rear end. Any down side to using synthetic in the differential of my 53 Special? Joe

Have been reading that GL-5 gear lube is supposed to be rated the highest and was thinking of 85W-140 in regular non-synthetic for differential in my 53 Special. Also most brands say it meets the old MIL-2105 specification. Am I on the right track? Joe

Oval cutout with 2 screw holes to the right may be for trunk light. Joe

Bought a "Drag Link Plug Driver" for 1/2" drive for $12.55 on Amazon. Worth the price to have one handy. Joe

UPDATE: Front end guy adjusted tie rod ends so steering wheel is straight ahead when going straight. However, a fair amount play in the wheel requiring frequent correction with any change in the road surface. I decided to check the adjustment in the center link where the pitman arm ball connects. Removed the cotter pin and had a hard time to get the plug to turn but finally with WD-40 got it out and cleaned up the threads. Turned it back in to stop and then backed out 2 turns according to the shop manual. Lubed the center link with the grease gun and noticed that new adjustment location is about 1 and 1/2 turns in so there must have been some wear over 66K miles. Took it for a test run and most of the play is gone, perhaps 70% or so. Front end guy says these cars were never great in the handling department but it sure is a pleasure to drive now. I had to use a large screw driver with a square shank and a wrench on the shank for moving the plug in the beginning. There must be a tool or bit that would fit a 3/8 ratchet drive, anybody know the name of the bit? Best to all. Joe

The conversion from 6 volts to 8 volts is a crime. These cars ran for decades with the 6 volt system. Use heavy battery cables and assure the charging circuit and components are all in good shape and there will be no need to convert to 8 volts. I know of cases where this has been tried and either the regulator has to be adjusted to 9+ volts to charge the battery and burn out the light bulbs, damage the radio and other accessories or the 8 volt battery needs to be charged with a plug in battery charger. Joe

I feel your pain on this, very frustrating. I hope you get it all straightened out real soon. In regard to Teflon tape on gas line fittings I agree with the earlier posts to avoid using it. As stated in one earlier post, it is a lubricant and if it is used in attaching a male brass fitting to the pump body it will allow the brass fitting to go further into the threaded hole in the pump body and may crack the pump body at that point. Don't ask me how I know this may happen. Joe, BCA 33493

Willie and Ben: You guys are the oracles of Buick engineering. I had to think about Willies last message and in my words he said to be sure the center of travel of the Pittman arm is also at the location of the connection to the tie rods when the wheels are positioned straight ahead. The alignment shop agreed completely and he said he will adjust the tie rod ends to center the steering wheel. Moving the steering wheel on the shaft is not a good idea. So today I added to my knowledge; a very good day! Thanks for your help. Joe