2seater

Needs a fuel pressure gauge on it and a spark test indicator to simultaneously check for fuel and spark when it starts and then stops. Some fuel pressure should remain even if spark goes away.

This is a TPI engine without EGR and has an integrated PCV system, correct? My first thought was a vacuum leak but less places for that to occur on the L27 engine except the possible exception of where the upper and lower intake manifold bolt together. It seems most of the likely issues have been suggested already, but it would be helpful to have actual sensor readings at warm idle, all of them can be checked, except cam sensor, in diagnostics.

I don't have an '88 but I believe an '89 is the same relative to the routing of the wiring. I found a harness that had apparently been pinched under the front crossmember, perhaps from being lifted or jacked up. It also had a code E041 and repairing the harness corrected the code. I am glad this was posted as my '90, which I work with regularly, routes these connections over the top of the engine on a sub-harness, and I didn't think of this.

I have regarded the buy/sell section as an extension for this forums users. I too am concerned with links to locations that may or may not have properly vetted parts or information. As Waltmail pointed out, the climate control head unit has clearly misleading or incorrect fitment information. I realize caveat emptor when buying parts, particularly used ones, I am just not comfortable sending forum visitors there. The Reatta store was a good example of a site that had the chaff weeded out, raising the comfort level.

Foolish, heck no, and you had company in any case😛 It wouldn't be the first unresolved mystery. Why does my trunk light use a 1004 dual contact bulb instead of what all the catalogs and FSM say is correct? An unsolved mystery, perhaps an alien conspiracy?

Sure sounds like a severe condensation issue and Ronnie may have a good candidate. The side windows don't actually have a path from the roof of the car, they essentially lay on the outside of rubber seals, so I don't see them as a drain channel?

Thank you. That is different than any of the factory dampers on the several LN3's I have played with, but, it does look similar to the new one I purchased for the '95 s/c project. I also noticed that Rock Auto shows some replacement dampers for the LN3 that look like this as well. It does indeed have threaded holes on the actual hub far below those large openings on the face. One other item, unrelated to this specific discussion, but also different than expected: The 1995 damper I mentioned above turned out to be a slip fit on the 1989 crankshaft?? This was unexpected. The crank and damper went to the machine shop today to have the rotating assembly balanced so I will find if there are any other anomalies.

Can you get a photo of it. I know just enough to know I haven't seen everything. Any possibility it is a replacement unit from a '91 engine?

No puller holes in the damper on the LN3. Later models have an interference fit.

From my experience, the problem area may be the moisture that is likely retained under the carpet, even though it may feel dry on the top surface. I had a somewhat similar experience, and even after the car had sat in to the garage for over a year, I found actual puddles, along with corroded splices, which was a surprise. I did not remove the carpet, way to much work for me, but after removing the seats and the door sill trim, I rolled the carpet back as far as possible and raised it up so I could place small fans in the area and let them run for a couple of days. Despite the amount of moisture, the paint on the metal floor pans was bright and shiny. That said, a moldy smell may be difficult to correct as it gets into just about any absorbent surface, seat padding, sound deadening, headliner, even the sunvisors.

Thanks for the information. Never owning a convertible I wouldn't have any idea of that.

Page 6C-4 in the FSM states the fuel and return are both 5/16" id., plastic. I found this in the PDF's that were so kindly posted by AZvet

You are correct, plus the two reflectors below the main light, I think they are referred to as reflex. They are two piece.

Mine isn't at home but the majority is steel with a flexible hose or similar down above the filter?

Yes, thank you.

I just remove the torx head through bolts/screws in the relay block and it comes loose. If memory serves there are two that recess into the socket block between relays.

Piece of cake with engine out, which I did this last summer. Can stand on the ground or frame to access everything. I always remove the heater blower to give multiple access angles but that is optional.

Simplified performance explanation:

I was thinking the same thing. I have seen Dave's cars but I wasn't observant enough to see the holder🤔

I calculated the original antenna lasted 25yrs + and 128k miles, so having Barney reconstruct mine would likely outlast me. Best deal in my opinion.

A thankless job for sure. No sense beating yourself up as it is a complete unknown as to why participants come and go, and I agree with Dave that it is a general trend, plus winter is non primetime for most of our cars. Personality clashes occur, many times for no apparent reason, and are somewhat inevitable, so what is, is. I am sure it was quoted from somewhere else, but my father told me about apologies: You don't need to with your friends and your enemies won't believe you anyway.

Yes, one on each end, small diameter. Rare for them to go bad .

Always easy to spend someone else's money but I would at least look at the '88. Unless I am the one that commissioned a repaint, I always wonder what is really underneath? I know I looked at five or more Reattas before I bought my first one. There were steady improvements from one year to the next, for better or worse, but an original would be my preference. JMHO

I feel your pain. I did that mistake once myself☹️ Once you get the system down you don't have to pull the tube but otherwise it just gets rotated out of the way. I should have warned you🤐 Merry Christmas.

Good idea. It would be nice to be available in 1/2" as that bolt is fairly torque heavy. 18" of extension places the breaker bar/ratchet in a sweet spot between the engine and strut tower.