Labrat

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About Labrat

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 02/20/1946

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    k9vietnam

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Sebring FL
  • Interests:
    Cars, SCUBA diving,

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  1. Still haven't figures it out yet. Replaced even more stuff. Pulled the harness and didn't like the look of it at one end. This is the harness to the cam sensor, crank sensor, coil pack and part of the injector harness. The car ia a 1991. If any one has a harness I'm looking to beg borrow or buy one. Thanks, Labrat
  2. It's still dead and there isn't anything left to replace but the ICM and the ECM. Fine with me! I have no clue which one is the likely culprit for the flooding issue on start-up now. Way past the rough idle problem now. Any help would be appreciated with advice on where to buy and what to buy Car is a '91. Thanks.
  3. My mechanic checked the fuel pressure by powering the green connector and the pressure was 42 PSI steady. After an hour it was 25 PSI. He is going to re-clean the IAC bowl today. He checked the coil packs and they had a good blue spark and look to be in great condition. Running out of things to check. Aaargh! I drive the car several times a week so the gas is fresh. I live in Central Florida so there is no winter storage for me.
  4. Mechanic checked the fuel pressure today and it was about 38 psi and bleeds down to 30 in 5 minutes. What should pressure be. I saw in and old post where Padgett said anything over 25 was OK. He replaced the fuel pressure reg. and no change ( i had a spare). Looks like fuel pump is bad for sure. Engine started but only ran a minute. He pulled the plugs and the were black and wet on all 6. Any way to change the pump without dropping the tank? Thanks to all for the help so far.
  5. I drove it this afternoon and now it is dead. Will start and run 1 seconds and dies. I let it cool an hour waiting for the tow truck and no change. Now maybe my mechanic can find the problem. He did clean the chamber under the IAC well and replaced the fuel pressure reg during the last attempt to fix it. He's going to pull the cam sensor and look at the magnet with his camera. I'm still open to ideas about the problem only occurring when it is up to temp. Thank goodness for this Forum.
  6. I haven't noticed any change in performance, still very peppy and same with gas mileage. The temp gauge goes to its usual centered position in the right amount of driving. I thinking in ten minutes of stopping the temp can't fall far enough to matter as the car can have the problem that quick. I will have the Cam Sensor Magnet checked. and try unplugging the O2 sensor to test it. Barney how likely is it the cam magnet? Should I replace the cams sensor at the same time or maybe replace it first to see if that is the problem Any way to check the sensor before the big tear down? Also, how is this related to the warm verses cold temp. of the engine? Thanks.
  7. Still having the problem with idle after the engines is warm. It starts and runs great and is fine until it turn it off and re-start after it has sat for 10 minutes or more. I have to rev up the motor to clear the flooded rough feeling before it is drive- able. Usually about a minute of fast idle clears it up. It stalled at a red light twice yesterday. RPMs dropped below 500 and quit. Restarted with no problem and ran fine except for fluctuating idle at the next light. My mechanic over the last few months has replaced the injectors, spark plugs, o2 sensor, water temp sensor, MAF, TPS (had bad code ) (the only code I've had so far ever) and the IAC. I don't know if he cleaned under the IAC but will check . Fuel pressure reg was fine. I don't know if the EGR valve was checked, again I'll ask tomorrow. The car has 83K miles so it was probably time to change most of the stuff so we did. I don't mind the cost, I love the car and plan on driving until I'm gone but I've got to get it safe to drive. Any help would be appreciated.
  8. Split a noodle and put it on your motorhome wipers when not using.
  9. I replaced the MAF and that didn't work. I then replaced the water temp. sensor under the MAF and no help there either. The cars feel like it's running rich after starting warm but will run OK after driving a few minutes or revving it up for a minute before driving. The coil packs look like new. The car just turned 80K. All help would be appreciated.
  10. NCReatta is correct. I appears the blue piece should have stayed in the compressor. Dang! The other part is damaged too so it will need replaced. I'll send a pic to Jim Finn and see what he has, thanks.
  11. I need to replace the connector to the air compressor that activates the clutch. I have a 1991 with the white oval port that is flat on one side and oval on the other on the comp. Nothing I find in the auto parts store match this. I bet Jim has one in his collection.
  12. Well, after checking everything it was the simplest failure. The electrical connection at the compressor is loose. I'll cut off the plug-in and replace it today. Thanks for the help Forum.
  13. As additional information, I have no problem lights on the instrument panel telling me to "service Ac soon" or even that I have a problem. Would there be a problem code in the system if I have it scanned at AutoZone?
  14. This switch is for 88-90 only. Did '91 change something so it isn't needed? I can't find one listed at various Auto Retail sites.
  15. I had my AC system replaced last year but kept everything R12. A few weeks ago the Compressor didn't appear to be working for a few days then for whatever reason everything was good again. Yesterday same thing happened. All the buttons and lights are functioning on the dash control system so I think that is OK. Any ideas where to tell my mechanic to check next. I do have the factory manual to help him. Thanks.