Labrat

Looking for very clean and working belt assembly to replace my stained and dirty one. Nice car deserves better . Thanks

Can't find the WTB or sell link to post this need. Mine is really discolored . I think buying a nice used assembly would be the easiest way to go. I would appreciate a link to the right place. Thanks.

Last upgrade was 2009 and decided to go with Alpine with Bluetooth so I can stream. No local channels worth listening to. Used https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BJM6H51?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details Alpine UTE-73BT. Fits well with just a little removal of plastic in the rear. For the doors I went with https://www.amazon.com/dp/B095B7KLGG?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details Infinity KAPPA53FX 5 1/4" speakers. Had to hole saw out an area in the cup for the connection area, no big deal. Sound great with adjustable tweeters which are multi-directions. Didn't hook up the mic. Just want music. Radio has Pandora option so full control of the app on your phone is there. Great option. Supposed to fit 1990 according to Crutchfield catalog and I believe it will with no problem. Happy tunes. When remembering our Vietnam Veterans think kindly about my partner and buddy who never made it home, Sarge082X Thanks.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F2RTN5Z?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details Plug it into your lighter port. Tune your radio to the frequency suggested in the user manual and connect your device via bluetooth to the lighter fm transmitter. Easy peasy. I like this one because of its size and because it works great. You Tube can show you how to do something like this in about 50 videos. Good luck!

After going down the list of possible problem sources we changed everything in the most likely to be the problem order. Started with MAF and went from there. After new crank sensor, cam sensor IAC, ECU, O2 sensors, new Delphi coil packs, new injectors, multiples spark plugs that were ruined in the testing, wiring harness referenced in a earlier post, TPS, and probably somethings I'm forgetting. Bottom line after all that with still a problem we replaced the MAF again (the first thing changed) and the problem was fixed. AARGH!! New GM part was bad out of the box. Since I have no intention of EVER selling this car I don't care about the cost or effort. Just glad to have my favorite car of everything I've ever owned great again. Corvettes(4) Jaguars (3), Porsche, Lamborghinis(2) and other American sports cars this has always been my favorite. I appreciate the opportunity to own and drive those other fun cars but for me it's the Reatta that makes me smile every time I walk past it or drive it. Least valuable car I own in dollars but the most valuable in my heart.

I'm sure I still have some but will have to search for them when I return home from travels in the RV this summer. My address has changed so don't send anything there. I'll contact you in a few weeks and we can work out a way to get you one. Send me a post through this forum for your contact info and I'll save it for later use. Regards, Rick

Thanks for the "irrelevant" link. I enjoy all things car related not just Reatta.

The anti-condensation wrap on the pipe from the dryer to the condenser is in rough shape. Any suggestions on what to replace it with and the size I may need. Also, where to get it. I doubt a factory replacement is available. Looks like its solid so would have to be split to install unless I disconnect the pipe. Not a good idea. The car is a 1991. Thanks.

Still haven't figures it out yet. Replaced even more stuff. Pulled the harness and didn't like the look of it at one end. This is the harness to the cam sensor, crank sensor, coil pack and part of the injector harness. The car ia a 1991. If any one has a harness I'm looking to beg borrow or buy one. Thanks, Labrat

It's still dead and there isn't anything left to replace but the ICM and the ECM. Fine with me! I have no clue which one is the likely culprit for the flooding issue on start-up now. Way past the rough idle problem now. Any help would be appreciated with advice on where to buy and what to buy Car is a '91. Thanks.

My mechanic checked the fuel pressure by powering the green connector and the pressure was 42 PSI steady. After an hour it was 25 PSI. He is going to re-clean the IAC bowl today. He checked the coil packs and they had a good blue spark and look to be in great condition. Running out of things to check. Aaargh! I drive the car several times a week so the gas is fresh. I live in Central Florida so there is no winter storage for me.

Mechanic checked the fuel pressure today and it was about 38 psi and bleeds down to 30 in 5 minutes. What should pressure be. I saw in and old post where Padgett said anything over 25 was OK. He replaced the fuel pressure reg. and no change ( i had a spare). Looks like fuel pump is bad for sure. Engine started but only ran a minute. He pulled the plugs and the were black and wet on all 6. Any way to change the pump without dropping the tank? Thanks to all for the help so far.

I drove it this afternoon and now it is dead. Will start and run 1 seconds and dies. I let it cool an hour waiting for the tow truck and no change. Now maybe my mechanic can find the problem. He did clean the chamber under the IAC well and replaced the fuel pressure reg during the last attempt to fix it. He's going to pull the cam sensor and look at the magnet with his camera. I'm still open to ideas about the problem only occurring when it is up to temp. Thank goodness for this Forum.

I haven't noticed any change in performance, still very peppy and same with gas mileage. The temp gauge goes to its usual centered position in the right amount of driving. I thinking in ten minutes of stopping the temp can't fall far enough to matter as the car can have the problem that quick. I will have the Cam Sensor Magnet checked. and try unplugging the O2 sensor to test it. Barney how likely is it the cam magnet? Should I replace the cams sensor at the same time or maybe replace it first to see if that is the problem Any way to check the sensor before the big tear down? Also, how is this related to the warm verses cold temp. of the engine? Thanks.

Still having the problem with idle after the engines is warm. It starts and runs great and is fine until it turn it off and re-start after it has sat for 10 minutes or more. I have to rev up the motor to clear the flooded rough feeling before it is drive- able. Usually about a minute of fast idle clears it up. It stalled at a red light twice yesterday. RPMs dropped below 500 and quit. Restarted with no problem and ran fine except for fluctuating idle at the next light. My mechanic over the last few months has replaced the injectors, spark plugs, o2 sensor, water temp sensor, MAF, TPS (had bad code ) (the only code I've had so far ever) and the IAC. I don't know if he cleaned under the IAC but will check . Fuel pressure reg was fine. I don't know if the EGR valve was checked, again I'll ask tomorrow. The car has 83K miles so it was probably time to change most of the stuff so we did. I don't mind the cost, I love the car and plan on driving until I'm gone but I've got to get it safe to drive. Any help would be appreciated.

Split a noodle and put it on your motorhome wipers when not using.

I replaced the MAF and that didn't work. I then replaced the water temp. sensor under the MAF and no help there either. The cars feel like it's running rich after starting warm but will run OK after driving a few minutes or revving it up for a minute before driving. The coil packs look like new. The car just turned 80K. All help would be appreciated.

NCReatta is correct. I appears the blue piece should have stayed in the compressor. Dang! The other part is damaged too so it will need replaced. I'll send a pic to Jim Finn and see what he has, thanks.

I need to replace the connector to the air compressor that activates the clutch. I have a 1991 with the white oval port that is flat on one side and oval on the other on the comp. Nothing I find in the auto parts store match this. I bet Jim has one in his collection.

Well, after checking everything it was the simplest failure. The electrical connection at the compressor is loose. I'll cut off the plug-in and replace it today. Thanks for the help Forum.

As additional information, I have no problem lights on the instrument panel telling me to "service Ac soon" or even that I have a problem. Would there be a problem code in the system if I have it scanned at AutoZone?

This switch is for 88-90 only. Did '91 change something so it isn't needed? I can't find one listed at various Auto Retail sites.

I had my AC system replaced last year but kept everything R12. A few weeks ago the Compressor didn't appear to be working for a few days then for whatever reason everything was good again. Yesterday same thing happened. All the buttons and lights are functioning on the dash control system so I think that is OK. Any ideas where to tell my mechanic to check next. I do have the factory manual to help him. Thanks.

I went to Mecum Kissimee last week and saw the Red/Tan '91 convertible with 99 miles that sold for $20,500. It was of perfect of course. I would drive the wheels off it at that price instead of keeping it a dust collector. Just me probably.

I have 2 replacement horn buttons for my '91. To remove and replace them I just have to pull on them, disconnect the wire and then reverse the procedure? I hope it's that easy. I was thinking I had to remove the air bag pod and some other tricky things. Thanks for any help in clearing this up for me.