2seater

I replaced one several years ago and I found the part in the door lock section of the auto parts store. Similar clips are used to hold the latch and lock rods inside the door.

Off topic, but apparently I was not far north of Dave and Ronnie this last weekend at the GS Nationals in Bowling Green KY. I only mention this as I had the opportunity to see a modern high performance car make a couple of runs, even though it did not fit the program as being Buick powered. It was a Dodge Demon, which ran in the low 10's @ hi 130's mph. under less than ideal conditions, with a cold, damp headwind. Amazing to see how far we have come in three decades, five times our hp., a full warranty and fully streetable.

It is my understanding that there is some sort of atmospheric exchange at the top of an O2 sensor used to determine the difference between exhaust gas and ambient O2 levels. I don't know the effect of plastic loom melted on that area? As far as I know, the harness and routing changed for the '90 models, at least on the Reatta, so it will likely require modification.

Put the car away for the winter in its new home at my cottage. Maybe a little early but it was a nice bright, dry day and the pontoon boat had to come out at the same time as we have had a couple instances of shell ice on the sheltered backwaters of the river in the last week.

The stumble while running is the same symptom I had with a failing CPS, as well as the intermittent no start which was loosely temp. related. I would be concerned with all of the spliced wires. Just for information, the harness for the CPS to ICM and a couple other sensors is a separate sub-harness on a '90 which plugs into the main engine harness behind the power steering pump. The Integrator and Block Learn do indicate it is seriously trying to add fuel, which could be a few things, bad O2 sensor, low fuel pressure, plugged injector(s) etc.. I would change the O2 sensor if it hasn't been done recently and check for cross counts after the engine is warmed up. Some knock counts are normal due to engine noise when starting and occasionally at quick throttle transitions under load. As long as the spark retard is zero under normal driving conditions, that is pretty normal operation.

Had a very similar experience, and agree with Ronnie. Crank Sensor is the likely cause. You may note there is residual oil pressure indicated with key on and engine off also. Seems normal to me.

That would be interesting if any information could be tracked down. I have looked at as much information on the factory cars as I could find and the fwd turbo iterations appear fairly similar to what I have done but with the older 3.8fwd engine. The hi-boost rwd looks to be an old style GN engine and drivetrain. There have been different people that have done turbocharging to various fwd GM cars but no kits I could ever find.

I would give that a qualified yes. There have been a few that have done supercharged and manual transaxle swaps, Daniel being the most recent and modern. No one has done much with the turbocharger aside from the factory prototypes 30ish years ago. I do it as a mental and curiosity exercise. The ecm is really pretty flexible and can accommodate many changes but I am just feeling my way through and it's almost time to put the car away :(( From a purely power potential, turbocharging has more potential, so it must be used with a fair amount of restraint unless a whole host of other things are upgraded.

I haven't tested a regulator in that way with fuel but I have applied air pressure and it did not leak air until near the set point in the low 40#'s. It will be interesting to see if replacing the regulator helps. I am experiencing similar issues, nothing from the injectors, no fuel in vacuum line, replaced regulator and problem persists. I don't really want to drop the tank but looking like it. Oh yeah, fuel pressure is normal and responds normally to vacuum, but extended cranking at irregular intervals.

Look closely at the front brake hoses. It is not uncommon for the inside of the hose to collapse and prevent return fluid flow. I didn't have problems with non-release of the brakes but I was surprised at the poor condition of the hoses, particularly where they twist and flex, when I did some unrelated work under the front end.

I know this is getting a bit off topic but loosely related. I would be interested in the story behind the OBD1 tuning guys still available today. I would be grateful to hear how this was done. On a related item; I have been considering an emulator from Moates as a means of speeding up the tuning process and would value your thoughts if it would be a good investment. TIA

Here is a quick pic of the Memcal w/zif scket and chip installed. Please note this is a replacement ECM I purchased that came with the ATYK Memcal where my original is ANWU. I use the spare ECM to power test MAF's on the flowbench also. There may be lower profile zif's available? This one has a lever on the end to completely release the chip for removal.

Thanks for jumping in As I mentioned, Ryan at Sinister/GMTuners did the zif socket for me, but while it works great for easy chip replacement, the programable part, It is too tall to let the ECM fit back into the stock location. Mine just lays on the floor while I work on the tuning aspects. If the 256k chip won't take programming, it could be replaced with a new blank replacement. I think one of Moates emulators should connect to the zif socket too to perhaps speed up tuning process?

The statement that there is something wrong with the brake pump is pretty vague. Does the pump run? If the pump runs, how much does the fluid drop in the reservoir when the accumulator charges? In other words, have you tried the tutorial on doing the brake test?

I have no way to monitor the total traffic group this site, but there is no doubt there is some erosion. I was concerned when I learned of the Facebook group and expressed misgivings at that time. It would be helpful if it pointed people to this forum but I fear the reverse is true. Generally I agree with the thoughts expressed here, and have the same concerns, but it's preaching to the choir. It's unfortunately similar to having a single source for news/information, talking to the same people, visiting the same places, or none at all, and generally not looking at the world from more than one perspective. I certainly post less, although I visit often. I see little interest in what I enjoy as a pastime, so don't bother to post much. In that respect, Ronnie's old site was more geared to the hands on and not just to preservation. I hope you keep trying.

I can't seem to get anything else to work, nor can I post a .pdf, so I suggest going to the TunerCat site: http://tunercat.com/ On the left side, scroll down to the "ECM Definition Files", click on that. When the files come up, scroll down to the Buick/Olds/Pontiac cars and $5B2 definition file. Click on the Info button on the right side. This is the list of what is contained on the 256k chip embedded in the Memcal. Many, but not all, parameters can be modified. Hope this helps. It's all free open source information. Too bad the BCM isn't the same?

The small chip is the only part of the larger Memcal/EEPROM that does get reprogrammed. I don't know all the details of what resides on the rest of the assembly but I know some of it is the base operating systems such as the limp home mode and open loop operation. I do not know for certain if knock processing is all done on the small chip, just that there are parameters that can be adjusted that affect it, but usually that is left alone as the factory settings work well. I am not versed well enough in this field to know all the details. I will see if I can find any better info. to illustrate what I mean.

I am guessing the "other chip" referred to is the conventional 256k chip embedded in the larger circuit board inside the blue housing? Hopefully Padgett can better define this, but the reprogrammable part is indeed the smaller chip. I do not think the small chip does any of the storage, at least I have never found it. It is primarily the instructions on what to do with information that comes into the ECM. I know the attack and recovery instructions for knock are contained on the small chip, but I do not know if wiping and reprogramming the chip will fix a problem or not? As Padgett suggested, contacting Ryan at Sinister Performance/GM Tuners may be able to help. He has been very helpful to me in the past. My first "performance" Memcals were done by Ed Wright at Superchips, and later Ryan helped me extensively with reprogramming for my original turbocharging experiments. He did several chips for me, and finally modified a Memcal to hold a ZIF socket in place of the 256k chip so cheap and readily available chips could be programmed and easily changed.

Agree with all of that. I shim my relief spring a bit as I use an aftermarket oil cooler.

That sounds similar to mine except the dash gauge goes to about 3/4 cold when above idle. Is it possible the oil sender is incorrect? I seem to remember a different calibration from year to year but it may be a false memory.

I have changed my thinking on the oil viscosity and brand names. I used to use higher viscosity oils than recommended as the increased oil pressure made me feel I was being extra caring for my engine. For an engine used regularly and brought up to full temperature on most occasions, almost any good quality oil should be fine. I am down to three vehicles and a single driver so oil gets changed once a year, and use full synthetic 0w-xx motor oils. If you think about it, clearances are at a minimum with a cold engine and a very light viscosity rating will flow the best and at higher temperatures the upper temperature rating should be at least as high as originally specified. Bearing clearances on the Buick V6 are very tight, it has a crank driven gerotor oil pump plus roller lifters, so no need for excess viscosity. What I find interesting is 0w-40 motor oil, (popular for European engines), is easier to find than 0w-30. JMHO

I have the original short-block engine back in the car now with a permanent oil pressure gauge in the feed line to the turbocharger. This engine has approx. 110k miles on it and it shows 42-45psi oil pressure at hot idle and 50-55 hot at 1800rpm. This is full synthetic 0w-30 motor oil.

That is definitely adjustable in the chip. I set mine to only lockup if above 55mph but expect a small mileage penalty. Once upon a time I had a lockup delay cable from JC Whitney I believe?. It installed between the plug and socket on the transmission. It prevented lockup unless in 4th gear, or about 50 mph, but I gave it away some time ago. I have a diagram I made of the circuitry somewhere and will post if interested.

Pretty sure the odometer is in the BCM but there are two items in the Memcal that appear to affect the speedometer. One is a pulse per mile setting which doesn't seem to be adjustable but there is also a pulse divider for the display and that seems to be adjustable to accurize the speedometer. There might be some inaccuracy of the speedo if the tire size for the donor car was substantially different.

I hope one of them works for you. I just checked to see if I have a spare Memcal but the two I have that are physically unmodified carry different programming from Ryan at GM Tuners and I don't have the proper header to reprogram one yet. Just for reference, my early '90, used an ANWU Memcal, vin xx145, so I believe others may work except for small tweaks that were done during the production run? The ANWU was labeled on the outside of the ECM case.