scottalan925

First of all, I am extending my apologies to all who may have wanted to read of the results of this project. My failure to post seems inconsiderate to me in retrospect and I'm sure I'm not alone in feeling that way - - but I have been dealing with familial health issues that were simply far more urgent and challenging. I hope no one took my delayed update personally! After overhauling the Fuel Rail for cleaning (and using a carb-cleaner on the fuel jets) followed by a complete overhaul (R&R) of the gas tank, fuel-filter (which appeared to be fine) & replacing the in-line fuel filter (contents of which was ABSOLUTELY FILTHY with sediments), the vehicle started right up & idles perfectly. Seems to me that I had multiple issues and I've finally addressed most of them, with one exception... My brand new battery is not charging properly. I believe that I may have ruined the generator by replacing the serpentine belt with one too small (when I chose to by-pass the compressor when I removed the A/C system.) I was never terribly happy with the tension of that drive-belt and only recently saw that someone else posted the 'appropriate' part numbers for the drive-belt for a by-passed A/C compressor pulley. I plan to order the GATES belt #K060725 from AutoZone for $24 - - and then head to the Pick-A-Part yard to see if I can find an appropriate 120A generator (designated as Model #CS-144 in the Service Manual.) Most everything I've seen on-line for generators having that model number is rated at 200 or 300 amps,.. so I'm a bit confused; but perhaps the model number has more to do with the configuration of bolts? IDK,... but hopefully things will begin to make sense as I begin devoting more time to the project. Thanks again to all who have contributed their knowledge & time to these endeavors... and I extend wishes for your very Happy Holidays! ~ Scott

It's time for an update: Family illness forced me to redirect my energies a few weeks ago; but I was finally able to renew my efforts to resolve the drivability issues over the Veteran's Day weekend. Unfortunately, a 22 mile drive prior to beginning the R&R of the Crank Position Sensor saw the vehicle run without stalling (even at 98 degrees celsius) and restart several times before mysteriously refusing to start again just after returning home. Dead in the driveway, where it sat unattended since before Halloween.. So this weekend I went ahead and replaced the CPS - - with no apparent improvement (as it remains in a 'Cranks but Does Not Run' status.) So, today I ran all the ignition tests and the following results were obtained from the tests in Chart A-3 & Chart A-5 of the Service Manual: 1. Crank Position Sensor (all EFI's produce a flashing of the NOID when cranking) 2. CAM Position Sensor jumper-test produces voltage a bit low at 6.5 volts between A-B - - while jumping the B-C connection measures around 9 volts - - and I've yet to measure the ECM power at BC05... but, 3. There's spark from the ICM = on each coil (1, 3 & 5); 4. Coolant Temp (EC04) matches the actual temp of the cold engine; 5. TPS is .44 volts; 6. Key ON audibly activates Fuel Pump activates for 2 seconds 7. Fuel Pump Test Connector (green connecter) activates the Test-Light for 2 seconds & during cranking 8. ... and every now and again, there is a momentary (single) ignition of fuel on the 1st crank... HOWEVER - - While there is some seepage of Fuel when depressing the Schrader Valve on the Fuel Rail, there is NO MEASURABLE PRESSURE registering on the Fuel Pressure Testing Gauge... and while suction can draw some fuel into the collection tube (through the unmoving gauge) when I press the pressure-relief valve on the pressure gauge,.. there is NO fuel flowing to the collection tube when I'm activating the pump with the Fuel Pump Test-Connector. From this information, I deduce that my current issue is related to FUEL: A fuel line or a filter is restricted... and so I plan to disconnect the fuel delivery line under the driver's side of the vehicle to see if I might dislodge something clogging the line - - before I revisit the difficult task of dropping the gas tank to see if the (NEWLY INSTALLED) fuel pump's filter was dislodged or something during it's installation... [And I will probably also consider replacing the Fuel Regulator beforehand...] The weather forecast is RAIN for the next 3 days, however - - so it may be Friday before I begin to explore these fun tasks! Hopefully, my next post will be full of great news... and again, Thank Y'all for caring and being so responsive when I sought your feedback!! ~ Scott

Ronnie, Dave, Hal, and Harry: Thank you, very much! I must give this project a few days of rest - - but will surely keep you posted on developments as they occur! ? Again: Thanks y'all!!

Thank you for your knowledgeable feedback, Dave! While the O2 sensor is new, I made the mistake of putting some protective wire wrap on the pigtail (and it melted into the first 6 or 8 inches of the wire above the sensor: Maybe that has affected it's utility.... so, yeah I'll check it out.) Regarding the sub-harness: I recently spent a day removing the entire Engine harness from a 1988 Olds Delta 88 Royale with an identical 3800 engine in it. (I'll look to see if I can just use the portion from Connector#126 forward to the ICM & Cam/Crank sensors - - although I recall that it also carried the circuits for the Delta 88's fans.) If so, I'll swap that in first and then replace the CPS if the problems persist. [BTW ~ I would like to ensure I'm not putting a band-aid on a cancerous problem when replacing the sensor: Any idea what causes a CPS to 'go bad'?] What caused yours to become a problem?

Driving home from the coffee shop, the engine 'stumbled?' a bit (as if it momentarily quit firing for a moment or two) then kept going... but upon arrival at home (temp at 91 & dropping to 87 as idling for a couple of minutes), I turned off the key and then, of course... it failed to restart. Checked the spark on the Ignition Module (cylinder #6) and found NO SPARK at all. If it matters,..while driving home, the Knock report (Ed17) was 245... while ESC spark retard (Ed16) remained at 0; the Fuel integrator (Ed19) = 155 while the BLM fuel (Ed20) = 149 to 150. Surely frustrating! Need to eat and clear my head before I continue... Hope something I've written will spark an idea or two from y'all.

Well, I sure appreciate the feedback and advice! Here's the report of today's experiences thus far... Oddly enough, the vehicle ran pretty well today (no stalls - - and restarting at temperatures above 87 centigrade.) But just minutes ago (after 30 miles of good driving), I stopped for coffee and experienced crank but no start when the Ed04 reading was only 83 - - and just when I put the spark tester on the Ignition Module to test for spark, it started right up with no appreciable change in temperature! (And yes, Ronnie, I'm pretty sure the Ignition Module is good: I've installed a total of 3 of them while trying to resolve the issues and I've finally settled on an AC Delco unit... but I continue to monitor it by checking spark at those coils. Probably ought to learn what the resistance should be between the coil posts, but I haven't done so yet - - although I reckon that won't tell me when I have a bad module.) But what's the likelihood that all 3 of those ignition modules would give the same problem? The Fuel Integration and Block Learning (Ed19 & Ed20) are indicative of a lean condition (and the Ed20 reading is typically 150 - - which I've read may indicate a problem with a ground circuit, all of which have been cleaned and tightened... Perhaps it's also significant that earlier in the day I had an Ed17 count of "9999" - - and then later something around "2400." Subsequently, those readings returned to '0' however. I intend to check the injectors individually with a test light this evening to see if they're all receiving the ground signal to fire... * Oh BTW, Regarding an earlier note: I discovered that the 20 RPM reading is normal with Key On/Engine Off, since the digital range begins at 20 according to the Service Manual.

Thanks, Guys. I suppose the Crank sensor replacement is next then, Ronnie.. although new info is to be considered. ( And I'll preface it by admitting that I've been hoping I wouldn't have to R & R the Crank Sensor due to my lack of precision tools & experience). Previously, I DID rewire (splice in a new) crank position sensor connector when I noticed the wires to the connecter were exposed and perhaps shorting-out due to the plastic coating having deteriorated... and have considered examining the rest of the harness more carefully to see if my 'butt-end' splices are inadequate or whether there's an 'open' that shows up when the engine heats up to expand the plastic coating on the wires... because I'm puzzled as to any other way the 18x signal might be lost intermittently when hot... I'm influenced in my logic by reading that a bad crank sensor will result in a 'no-start' condition regardless of which (i.e., 18x or 3x) signal is lost. Last evening when a Trouble Code 22 showed up, I discovered that one of the spliced wires connecting TPS had become disconnected (leading me to wonder if the poor connection preceding that disconnect led to the intermittent stall & no-start condition.) I reconnected it and this morning I was able to drive without stalling and then restarted the vehicle at an Ed04 temperature reading of 97 celsius degrees, which adds to my puzzlement. Will be driving another 12 miles or so in 3 hours or so and find out whether a warmer ambient temperature might affect things. All that being said, do either of you have an opinion as to whether it's more likely to be a bad wire someplace, or the Crank sensor itself? ~ Scott

1990 Reatta has begun stalling when it reaches normal operating temperature (about 85-90 degrees centigrade) - - resulting in 'Crank but No Start' (NO ERROR CODES SET) until cooled to around 80 to 83 degrees. This began after engine mounts broke & were replaced. Additionally, I have replaced the CAM sensor, Cam Sensor Interrupter Magnet, Throttle Position Sensor, Mass Air Flow body & Sensor, New Plugs & wires, new Oxygen Sensor, installed working Delco Ignition Module & Coils... and repaired some bared wires in the harness (near connector 126). ** One anomaly noted = EMC on-board digital data readout (Ed11) reports the RPM at "20" rpm even although only have the Key On - - but engine OFF. (and the tachometer appears to be accurate when the engine IS running.) Has anyone else encountered either of these mysterious issues (and if so, anyone found a solution)? Thanks for your consideration & the assistance you might provide! (Love my Reattas - - but this is driving me nuts!!)