2seater

Yes, I tried the same thing as well as cross references to Champion and Autolite. Are they a standard type plug with the large center and side electrodes or maybe a thin wire thin wire platinum? Just out of curiosity, do they match the front? Strange.

Do you have a photo? That doesn't sound like a typical AC part number convention?

True, there is no way to know if anyone involved with the original cars had anything to do with the aftermarket kit offering, or not. A bolt on kit would need to be limited in potential to work with the stock engine configuration, and the hp. listed is just within the capacity of the stock MAF programming in the ECM. A little more injector, a custom chip, custom exhaust manifolds/piping, oil feed and drain and a small turbocharger could likely be put together within the listed price at that time. Internal engine work as mentioned in some of the other articles would probably blow that budget out of the water.

If they are close to Flint I wonder if someone part of that company had anything to do with the factory prototypes? The boost and horsepower level would be what I would expect from what was the low boost factory prototype. At least it sounds eerily similar. It would be nice to see how it was accomplished, but alas, that may not be possible.

I think the engine changes were pretty well covered already but a little to add. Installed in the Reatta, only the '91 had the L27 engine, and many parts will interchange with the LN3. The crankshaft is different in '91 due to the one piece rear main seal, but the rest is the same. The L27 tuned port intake manifold will bolt on the LN3 but requires a 5/8" hole be drilled in each head for the integrated PCV system or plumb an external PCV system. The L27 throttle body and the MAF are integrated in a single casting but the flowrate and frequency response are the same so the LN3 harness plugs right in. IAC is relocated but also plugs right in. The L27 does not use an external EGR either. The L27 heads are the same as LN3 except for the extra holes for the above mentioned PCV system. Many of the later model Series I 3800 engine parts right through '95 can also be used, but the Series II for '96 and up is almost completely different and very little if anything will interchange. That said, a Series II complete swap would be very possible.

I don't have details but there was a conversation I saw a long time ago about removing the welds where the actual strut tube inserted into the lower mount, remove the strut and drop in a different style strut with the concentric spring. A coilover shock won't work without an upper control arm.

Need a little more detail on what you product you would like to use. Normal automotive store Silver Stars are just conventional sealed beams and are a direct replacement. True HID headlights are a whole lot different and have a ballast to control the arc and generally have lower current draw, but I do not know if they would allow the headlight door function to work properly if they would even fit in the housing. Please add the model year in the sig.

We were on a trip a couple years ago headed north into Utah from Arizona. We were headed for Canyonlands National Park and the GPS had us turn off on a gravel road from the two lane paved road we were traveling. Not knowing any better, we followed the unpaved road for miles, assuming this was some sort of cut-off, but the road gradually narrowed and became less van friendly. About 15 miles off the paved road, we came to a wye with a large message board covered with glass. In the center was a prominent message that stated "if your GPS brought you here, it is dead wrong"! The fork to the right led to a ranger station, with the note it was Jeep access only, the left leg continued on to a couple of ranches. We had to turn around and travel back to the highway and resort to a paper map to find our way. The only thing we saw on this detour was a couple of jackrabbits, a road runner and a ranch/farm in the distance with a few scattered cattle. In retrospect it's amusing and apparently well known enough that someone was nice to post a warning, but it would be nice if it was 15ft from the highway.

Similar, but it won't work for our OBD1 system. The best would be as mentioned above by KDirk. I have an Auto X-Ray 5000 with ALDL adapters for several different car makes, and it does work relatively well, plus it does have a limited recording ability. OBD2 has been in place for over two decades now, so the used market will be the best bet for an older vehicle.

What does "after jumping it" mean in the second sentence? Was the battery dead? If the battery, or its connections are not good, a whole host of gremlins can pop up. If the onboard diagnostics do not work on the car, I do not know if the ALDL feed will work or not. One question would be if the cover is on the ALDL connection? The jumper inside completes the communications loop and provides a redundant feed. I use an old OBD-1 Auto X-ray for connection to the ALDL which works reasonably well. I do not know of a program compatible with Apple products for pre-OBD2 systems. I use Tuner-Pro RT for Windows for recording and modifying chips.

Small update on possible supercharged conversion. I took the block with the cylinder rust issues to the machine shop and determined it could be cleaned up @.030" oversize with a slight offset bore in the #1 cylinder which was the worst one. After searching piston types that would fit the bore size and had the correct piston pin diameter, I chose one designed for a Australian Holden 3.8 engine. It had an unusual bowl design that "may" be more detonation resistant. A few photos: the pistons are stock on the right, '94 vin L in the center and the Holden on the left, the damaged #1 cylinder and the new piston installed in that bore for mockup. The block will likely be decked slightly to decrease the piston to deck quench distance after checking the four corners for piston height at the four corners. If decked, compression ratio should come in right at 9:1.

I wonder if the cause is the '90 lights are wired differently at the rear? The outer two that flash come from the front harness (flasher?), the inner light operates from a relay on the right side of the trunk, at least true of the sedan. The flasher circuit from the front is what trips that relay for the inner light. I think you may have pointed out to me I had a light out and when I discovered it wasn't the bulb, that led me to the relay, which had no power to the block it plugged in to, which led me to the splices under the seat. Sort of convoluted, but maybe that is giving the sequencer fits, since power to the high filaments comes from two different sources??

I have stayed away from the forum for a few days thinking about this. The one thing that struck me was the banning seemed to be common knowledge to some but sort of "out of the blue" to me. I confess maybe I am somewhat single minded and don't pay a lot of attention to the back and forth that doesn't concern me, but I was aware RDG was in hot water on more than one occasion. It is unfortunate when this happens, but I value the forum plus the effort that goes into it and that trumps all.

I have wondered about this myself. When working properly, the brakes work very well, but it is one of those "what if" things. One of my oddball thoughts was to use a larger rotor but keep the stock caliper on a relocated mount. I "think" the caliper is what is called a GM Metric style and other mounts may be available as used in the aftermarket for off road use. Never pursued it and maybe silly since apparently gm has already engineered something.

Exactly right. Remember the old Mile-O-Meter which was just a color coded vacuum gauge. They are pretty sensitive to throttle movement so they do make you aware of how hard you are working the throttle. Not as sensitive as a modern MAP sensor used on many speed-density type systems.

It is sorta useless info except to say that while still registering vacuum that mean the throttle was not close to wide open, where it will register as zero. Because I have a vacuum/boost gauge, I just notice little things like that. Generally see 10"-12" vacuum on the gauge at normal highway cruise in the 70ish mph range. By and Iarge I see no real difference if I have a turbocharger on it or not. It just gives a sense of how hard it is working to flow down the road. I think reading the MAF gives a sense of how hard it is working as well.

Did it perhaps have the Bose option? I think that may have only been in the Riviera's but it is in my FSM. While 140 mph may be theoretically possible, it sure sounds unlikely to me unless in a steep downhill run with a strong tailwind.

IMHO not unless you suspect some sort of performance problem. An alternative is to send them out to be serviced and flow tested. Again, just my opinion, but the stock injectors, Bosch 901's, are pretty good. They have the multi hole discharge plate, much like the more modern Bosch type 3. The slim bodied type 3 is supposed to have a faster response time due to lighter components. If you watch an injector test video you may notice they dribble just as they open and close and don't have the desired pattern until the pintle is retracted. Faster acting components should help with this. Most who have switched report a smoother idle and low speed but of course that could just because what was replaced had issues

Probably getting close. I suspect the fuel cutoff may vary some by year, but I don't remember if there is both a mph and rpm cutoff. In many cases there is a speed limiter based on the standard tire speed ratings, which in a Reatta would be "H" or 130 mph, probably with some safety factor, 115-125mp sounds about right. As an unscientific experiment in the realm of useless information, I modulated the throttle where the indicated manifold vacuum was 5"Hg. The car accelerates moderately well at first and slowly dies off. After a run of almost 3 miles on a straight road I was just approaching 100mph but never reached it. Rpm was about 2800.

Good advice from Daniel and you are only located about 30 miles from GM Tuners on hwy 6

Dave might be Magnum, I would be more Lou Costello

Too darn cold to do any wrenching. We did discuss having the yard pull a complete engine for me. The engine I have in mind is listed as bad but everything else is there and the s/c spins freely. We shall see about doing a more detailed look and get the vulnerable parts out of the way when we get a break in the weather. We are at the start of a week long cold spell.

We did indeed find several complete '94-'95 candidates as well as several Series II s/c. I questioned our sanity in venturing parts hunting with a strong north wind, 0*F and -19*F windchill. I am there in my mukluks, insulated longjohns, hooded sweatshirt under a Carhartt parka and a Stormy Kromer hat. Dave arrives with a light windbreaker, cotton gloves, no hat and he may have been wearing flip-flops, although I may have been hallucinating that part. Many thanks to Dave's great recall.

Hypothetically, if it is on a vehicle like our Reatta with only a single O2 sensor upstream of the catalytic converter, there will be no warning lights of any type. Depending on where this person lives, if he requires an inspection, it will fail the visual test at the least and likely a sniffer test as well. The exhaust will be slightly louder and will smell rich. Dual exhaust will have no bearing on any of the aforementioned.

Daniel alluded to installing a Series II engine and that it is not as difficult as it may seem. I had a couple of conversations with Ryan at GM Tuners specifically about if the LN3 ECM can operate the Series II engine successfully, and it appears it is within reason to do so. That does open up some other possibilities, even the N/A engine is 205hp, 230tq, so it would seem to be a useful increase plus the package is smaller and is 26# lighter weight. The MAF uses the same frequency range as the stock one but would likely need some fine tuning. Not on my radar at this point, but an interesting possibility.