2seater

Good idea. Tomorrow may work if you are up for it. Maybe above freezing although some snow is likely. I will text later.

Good advice. I have been having some difficulty finding a complete engine with all the correct parts. The on-line car part sites seem to be pretty unreliable. I found one 70 miles from me with a photo of it still in the car. When I inquired about how complete the engine was, I was sent three photos of what was obviously an n/a engine and the tag number didn't match the tag number listed for the engine. When I sent back that it was not the correct engine and mismatched numbers, he replied he accidently transposed numbers, which was bs and would send the correct photos. The next day the listing had mysteriously disappeared. Finding a complete series II is much easier but that would entail an entire engine change as there is essentially no interchangeable parts.

I had to add the little arm on the throttle body for the TV cable as Jon says just to use the tpi style manifold N/A. It just bolts on and can be transferred directly from the existing throttle body. Everything later than about '91 had electronic transmissions and the tv cable went away but all the provisions were still there, including the hole in the cable bracket for the cable.

I presently have two complete engines, both are turbocharged. The one in my example photo uses the entire engine to feed what is essentially an early GN turbocharger. It was not intercooled the first time around and in the meantime I rebuilt a second junkyard engine, twice (which is a separate story), and that is what is in the car now, fed from the front cylinders only to a Ford 4-cyl turbo. I am now putting together parts for a third engine which is at the machine shop now. After seeing what is possible with a supercharger, I though it may be a good time to try a different direction and check out the s/c world. The factory setup would be the most well explored and would be my preference if I can find the parts. I do admit your twin-charging idea is intriguing, but that might be for later.

This is the reason I asked for input. This is one of my engines on the stand with the alternator removed. Minus the tabs that the alternator mounts on, the clear area is 9.0" wide and 7.0" deep measured from the fuel rail to the tip of the water pump pulley. The kits that are available for more mainstream installations are far more expensive than swapping an entire factory supercharged engine in. But, if something like a centrifugal blower might be scored in a swap meet or junkyard wreck, perhaps there would be possibilities, hence the request for dimensional information.

It has no direct bearing but does get closer to what might work on our Reatta. Information on the dimensions for the remote mount belt driven superchargers is scant on the net. Sometimes a loosely related installation may inspire further research.

I appreciate the pics but I am looking for information on a belt driven centrifugal blower, specifically a line drawing or similar with dimensions. Something like this from the Paxton site. It looks like the compressor side of a turbocharger with a larger inlet due to the lower speeds from the gear box on the other side.

I briefly mentioned the sort of outside the box idea some posts back, adding a centrifugal supercharger. I am considering trying the Eaton roots type blower as GM did it, but finding good parts is a bit more difficult than first thought. That brings me back to the possibility of a centrifugal, like a Vortech, Paxton etc... What I cannot seem to find on the net is dimensional information for the blowers themselves. After looking at the belt diagrams for a supercharged engine, the alternator is moved to the top rear and the power steering below it. It got me to thinking with those items moved, the space for the alternator might potentially be at least partially used for a belt driven centrifugal supercharger but I cannot find any actual dimensional info, just kits and such that are engineered for specific vehicles. Has anyone run across one that can offer some general overall size info?

Thanks for the replies. I think the harness with two relays is the best way to go. I was just thinking outside the box. I was thinking about how I could keep it a little closer to stock and do it the way GM did it with the later models. Ronnie, a guy with a spoiler on the trunk and non-stock wheels and you have concerns about hidden wiring. This is meant in jest. GM saved the headlight switch with the relay addition but did essentially nothing to provide full voltage to the headlights. More than one way to accomplish this but please do it, your car will be happy you did.

Daniel, are you running the Series II on the Series I ECM and sensors? Those engines are far more plentiful and cheaper in general.

Yes, the manifold is cast aluminum. I have never had those parts give trouble before but I have seen severe pitting where the hose connection end. It can be tapped for pipe fittings although clearance for the hex wrench might be pretty tight where the hole enters the front cover at a shallow angle. Try a search for heater hose nipples or connections and there are several different types, lengths and materials. Hard to beat the compactness of the steel pipes?

Just my opinion , but the harness makes a lot of sense to me. It does away with the doubled up wiring while eliminating the need to add the factory relay. It's a good package and your headlights will be brighter, no matter what bulb being used.

I sent a PM

Yes, I know you have a one of a kind. A bit more detail on how that was accomplished would be a nice story, if you care to share.

While I am not fond of the stock wheels, I think they look pretty good with your overall painting them. Nice improvement of the rest.

What you have done with yours would be a fine addition to the engine enhancement thread if you care to share.

If there is any doubt about the ignition module, it should replaced. There should be firm and solid potting material inside the ICM. If soft or actually oozing out, it is on borrowed time. There can be other issues of course, but once the ignition is eliminated, we can work on that. The O2 sensor has a large Impact on fuel mileage but much of that may clear up if the ignition is up to snuff.

I don't have any nice visuals, but has anyone thought of tying the center four lights to the high mounted stoplight? I know it would require a relay and a harness change since there is no high filament wire to those bulbs, but that would free up the outer four bulbs on each side as turn signal, additional brake etc...

I know the led sites I have looked at all recommend the same color bulb as the original lens color. the wavelength should enhance and not change the original color. I don't think we could make ours too bright, just look at the Chrysler products as used on local police cars, Full circle and very bright leds.

I appreciate what is trying to be illustrated but I am not totally onboard, yet. IMHO, if amber is to be used as a turn indicator, some wiring modification would need to be done. I have found the sequential turn signal to be quite effective. The added movement tends to catch the eye and I would like to see a fourth segment be added to the sequence. Perhaps an amber bulb behind the rear lens could lead off the sequence? Are there bi-color led's available? I am not fond on the amber near the outer corner.

I would have a hard time cutting up the taillight but there are possibilities on the inside to perhaps add some amber? I have found the sequential lights Dave has are very effective although I would like to expand them by two for four on each side. Maybe an amber substituted for the suggested fourth bulb but without the taillight function, just the brake/flash. I know European cars have what are termed rear fog lights, usually down low.

I know I am getting off topic but Subaru replaced the entire shortblock in our '11 Forester @ 183,000 miles. It was a settlement on a class action lawsuit for oil usage that extended the engine warranty to 100k miles or one year if already over mileage. My only cost was $56 for a computer reflash to fix an extended crank time condition. GM isn't the only one with issues like this.

Good question, I hope there is someone that can answer that. I can tell you from my personal experience adding Acetone to E10 did exactly nothing for me, at least nothing detectable.

I kinda scratched my head over adding gas dryer, which is mainly another form of alcohol, usually isopropyl or methanol? As far as I know, gas dryers don't eliminate the water, they just absorb it so it can cycle through the system and be burned. I have stopped using Heet type products when E10 became the defacto standard, reasoning the alcohol already in the fuel does that for me. Maybe I am off base but again, at 10% ethanol, there is already 1.5 gallons alcohol in a 15 gallon fillup? JMO On a sort of related subject, my go to station only has two tanks underground, 87 E10 and 91 pure gas. The mid-grade is usually not a lot more expensive and is a blend of the two tanks done in the pump. For much less than the pure gas cost, it reduces the ethanol content by approximately half.

I used to belong to an E85 forum and there seems to be no shortage of both good and bad advice. I looked at this long and hard for several years, and I have mentioned it here about building a high compression 3800 to take advantage of E85's octane. The problem with that is it is pretty much E85 only or some form of race fuel after that. Probably okay for a somewhat locally driven car but just too many limitations for me to use as a daily driver or trip mobile. A boosted engine, especially one that has the ability to change the tune based on the fuel would be a good candidate. Essentially a variable compression engine which is done with the boost level should work well. In an engine designed to run on 87 octane, the high octane advantage of E85 is lost. You are left with a fuel with somewhere around 27% less energy but the ability to burn roughly 30% more of it, for a small theoretical net gain. Of course that 30ish % fuel mileage penalty you are pretty much stuck with and the stations with E85 near me have never made up that total cost difference. A short story that I believe happened to me this past summer. My wife and I tripped down to Kansas to see the total eclipse this last Aug. I had to stop for fuel in Neb. just before heading south into KS to see my sister. We were using our '11 Subaru Forester which had been running between 26-28mpg for the first 700 miles at 75-85mph. As we headed south I noticed the fuel mileage had taken a serious drop, like to 21-22mpg. I actually made a quick stop to see if there was leak or something else that was obviously wrong but found nothing. I assumed a sensor somewhere was failing but it ran fine and power was good plus no warning codes. It was about 100 miles to where we stopped at my sisters and we used her van to go back into NE for the total eclipse, actually very close to where we filled up before. We were in a gas station for a pit stop and I noticed they had E30 pumps in among the others. I asked the local guy what sort of employment they had in the area and he said there was a big ethanol plant just up the road and was a major employer. I am pretty certain I accidently filled up with E30 which caused the big mileage drop. After I ran the rest of that tank out heading home, the mileage returned to normal after the next fillup.