2seater

I am not sure what the touch screen models show when in diagnostics but I am pretty sure it will indicate what gear it's in and if the TCC is being commanded to lock up or not while driving which may narrow the actual transmission mode where it acts up.

The Delco coil pack and module does have demonstrably greater potential output than the Magnavox setup and is relatively inexpensive if sourced from a pick and pull, much more expensive if purchased new. Most likely the ICM below the coils is what is failing, and needs to be separated from the coils to confirm. It's really a personal choice. I still use the Magnavox style even with a slightly boosted engine and cannot speak directly to any actual improvement from personal experience. I do run a reduced spark plug gap of .050" which decreases the load on the coils. Just my observation from watching others experience with the two systems is the coils fail more often with the Delco than the Magnavox but are replaceable individually. Conversely, the Magnavox has more failures of the ICM. Too bad they are not a mix and match. Most seem to report a smoother running engine when switching to the Delco.

Ronnie is right, the next thing to check is the filter. Maybe I am misunderstanding, but it sounds like you installed the additive and did a full throttle test from a cold start? I hope that I didn't get that right?

Is the fluid dark and smell burned at all? Is the fluid level correct? Before going to the trouble of a fluid and filter change, try adding Seafoam or Lucas transmission additive. The other thing that may sound counterintuitive is an ignition misfire. This will show up under load, such as when it goes into high gear and the TCC locks up under moderate throttle. Take a close look at the ignition coil pack and the ICM module under the coils to see if there are signs of overheating such as soft or leaking potting material in the module. Pull the line from the vacuum modulator at the top front of the transaxle and check for fluid present in the vacuum line. Check the throttle valve cable for proper adjustment at the throttle linkage. It may indeed be the transaxle is getting tired, but I would check other items first which cost little or nothing.

Where did it spend its previous life? Must have been a pretty mild area and regular servicing.

I am somewhat unclear on the purpose? I have an oil cooler on my '90 and it uses an adapter sandwiched between the filter and the mount on the engine. This could just as easily be to a remote filter but the one thing I do not like about it is; it locates the stock filter lower and even the short stock filter is partially below the crossmember. A typical application would be an adapter to a remote dual filter setup, which eliminates the low hanging filter and adds capacity if desired.

Some time ago there was a thread about using the switch that Ford used for the Teves system on the turbo coupes. I would believe it would have a Ford part number if it was the same one but the pinout looks similar to what I remember.

Pretty sure your a/c is the same as my '90. The air distribution is controlled with vacuum through what is called a programmer, which is located in on the far right side under the dash. It stands up vertically under the dash above the removable panel below the dash. It is black plastic with a cardboard cover on one face. There are vacuum connections on the bottom of the unit. The upper end with the temperature control rod is visible with the glove box liner removed. The most common failure is loss of vacuum feed to the unit, a small black plastic line, which causes air to be discharged primarily from the defrost vents. The vacuum source is from a tee on the engine side of the firewall fed from a line that runs toward the firewall from the vacuum block on top of the intake manifold. It sounds like you have some vacuum present, but there may be a hole or kink in one of the vacuum lines from the programmer. They are all 1/8" colored plastic lines. Do you hear a hissing sound from the right under dash area when the engine is stopped? The programmer itself could be faulty. Did it ever work properly?

Yes, it should scan if you have the GM plug for OBD-I. The ALDL port is below and to the left of the steering column. There should be a cover over the port which should be replaced after scanning.

You mentioned the coils are new, what about the ICM below the coils? It can suffer the same temperature related failures as the crank sensor. Check to be certain the plug at the end of the ICM is firmly seated also. The fuel pressure sounds fine, so I doubt that is the issue. If it still stalls when warm, disconnect the MAF sensor and start the engine and see if that helps.

I finally got around to trying this process. For a windshield previously treated with Rain-X it cleans up very easily, conversely, a windshield that has been "neglected" does require a fair amount of elbow grease to get it polished up. Once done, the difference is pretty dramatic. So far, so good.

Interesting. It looks like the Range Rover and TC guys have been down this road for a while.

I know on my '89 that I replaced all of the rear lines with the fuel tank in place, with one caveat. I removed all of the rusting line from the calipers forward to about the drivers seat area. I did the steel fuel lines at that time as well. In any case, I relocated the rear proportioning valve to a more accessible location near the front center of the rear suspension cross member. The connections were the same as stock, just in an easier location to plumb.

I don't know if that is directed at my post but I 100% agree. Perhaps I should have capitalized "VS" in the statement "Way easier to make VS a double flare". The bubble flare is very easy and can even be done in place under the car, which I have done. Yes, the fittings are not interchangeable, although the brake line diameter is standard 3/16".

Be aware many, if not all, of the brake lines may be bubble flares. Way easier to make vs a double flare. I believe the nuts are a light green color, at least the ones I used. Like these: https://www.amazon.com/Bubble-Flare-Metric-Thread-276010/dp/B004QS2ZDW

Sort of a road trip question/sighting. Headed south on hiway 81 in southern Nebraska, after the eclipse: Red/Tan '88 Reatta, ran in the same pack headed south into Kansas for over 1/2hour, 2:30-3:00pm. License was from Reno county KS. Anyone on this forum?

That looks pretty normal. It all has to line up with the headlight doors, top and bottom in any case.

If the brake accumulator is depleted as per the instructions, by pumping the pedal 25+ times with the key off, there should be essentially zero fluid leakage when the accumulator is removed. There is no need to bleed the brakes after replacement either. The accumulator is sealed by an o-ring, so be sure the original stays with accumulator when removed and there is one in place with the new one. The seal only requires hand tightening of the ball, no need to gorilla it in place. Regarding ROJ: Yes, Ronnie noticed the incorrect wording, which I admit I never picked up on, and corrected it after your concern that there was a conflict.

I know I had some difficulty with the concepts myself and was the primary reason I made a test rig to put some numbers to what many owners have observed over the years. There were standardized brake tests developed many years ago and are generally valid, but I guess I wanted more detail as to why. One thing to note is the accumulator will expel all of the fluid it contains as long as the diaphragm is intact and there is even 10psi of pressure remaining. The only way I can measure the volume of the fluid in the accumulator is to use a bench test with a calibrated container to measure the fluid used and compare this to the observed system pressure. I ran all tests multiple times, a total of nine accumulators were tested, including the ones @ Daves89. Additionally six total pressure switches were tested. It is true that the fluid drop tests I did were conducted using my car as the test bed, so it is using a different pump but the accuracy of the pressure switch on my car has been verified more than once with my test gauge. Even if there may be a small difference in the test bed, the trends observed on the test bench were absolutely confirmed. I know the red and yellow dash warning lights are part of the previous test medium but they have zero influence on the actual system pressure and I have found a fair amount of variation in the pressure points for the lights to turn on and off. While it is important the lights work, they are only useful in a peripheral way in diagnosing the system. I encourage everyone to make the simple test gauge and all of the tests (except the actual volume) I did can be performed right on the car without any disassembly except for removing the steel pressure line from the pump and installing the gauge. A helper would be beneficial observing the lights if desired but do not use the brake pedal. For those that have seen this before, I did reconfigure to more easily bleed air from the gauge.

This is the thread on the accumulator testing I did a few months ago. Hopefully it will answer your concerns. In short, accumulator systems, such as home well pumps or our brakes, the amount of gas charge is supposed to be close to 1/2 the minimum working pressure. In our case, the working range for the brakes is between 2000-2650psi, so the gas charge should be around 1000psi. Low gas charge allows more fluid to be stored but the stored pressure bleeds down much more quickly. I don't know why this displayed like this but it will get to the thread and you need to scroll back to the beginning.

As mentioned above, a factory service manual will be a wise investment. Most of the gremlins mentioned are probably normal operation, the radio and windows will work for a time after shutdown and is normal. They will stop as soon as the drivers door is opened. The fuel pump should not run with the key off and you may have a stuck fuel pump relay which is located in one of the fuse blocks on the sides of the console and seeing the passengers side cover missing may give a clue? Nice car.

3/4" fluid drop is excessive and the accumulator should be replaced. In the case of the accumulator, less drop is desirable, slightly under 1/2" would be normal for a new standard style accumulator. Does the pump run every time the pedal is applied? If so, you need a new accumulator or as mentioned above, there is air in the system.

As it turns out I was ordering from Rock Auto for other parts and ordered these as well, and the fit perfectly. Thanks again.

The confrontational attitude does not serve well. The adage about vinegar and honey may be old, but it is true nonetheless.

Yes, I have the Thrasher article from many years ago, and is what I was referring to. Thanks for the reminder it was quoted in Padgett's tutorial. Always good info to have.