2seater

I appreciate all the stuff I have from you now, and the offer is tempting, but I am running out of room If we can find the missing rod cap and bolts, that would be great. I still have that little care package for you as well.

Funny this should come up now. I am working on resurrecting a couple of scrap heads I received from Daves89. The stock intake valve is 1.71" and there is about .062" space between the intake and exhaust valves. So, it would appear about a 1.82" intake valve would fit. The ports on these heads aren't bad on these engines and respond well to minor porting and cleanup work. I think the 10* valve angle helps a lot. I am experimenting now with back cuts on the intake valve and a 15* and 30* cut on the back are worth a few cfm, particularly below .250" lift. The exhaust port is very good stock, just clean it up.

I read through that build and most of it is pretty fine. I did notice a little different dimension on the pistons used vs what I have found and the resulting compression ratio but just pickin' nits. Apparently it ran well, so hats off on that.

If you are looking for a better injector, the newer Bosch Type 3 seem to make a useful difference. The original injectors are not a bad design, they are a director plate type, and work well. The new Type 3 has lighter internal parts and can open and close more quickly which seems to make for a smoother idle and low speed. The 19#ish injectors are well matched to the capability of the engine. If you look for a Type 3, be sure they have the original EV1 style electrical connector and the groove at the top for the little metal clip. At around 200hp, the injectors would need to be upgraded for more fuel. JMO

Yes, you could do that but I would expect there will still be a fair amount of residue fuel in the rail. Even at zero pressure overnight, there will still be fuel in the rail. Probably the least fuel spillage is removing the entire fuel rail w/injectors and dump it out before removing injectors. Pulling the rail up and swapping one injector at a time sort of works too since the rail is suction locked but there is no perfect way that I know of to not spill some.

I don't think any part of the brake system would be happy with any sort of petroleum product, or silicone for that matter on the Teves system. I would only recommend running fresh brake fluid through the system. I had heard some time ago about fluid available in different colors to be able to see when the flush was complete, but I never looked in to that. JMHO

Better photo of the brake pump tester. The valve is from my parts drawer so it isn't as heavy duty as it should be, but it works fine and the brass tee is a high pressure type.

Never thought about flushing the reservoir? Good idea. Sorry about the photo quality. I ran out to take a pic and was just about to sneeze

Perhaps I do not understand Jim's setup as mine is for use on the car? What I suggested is like this pic. $25.56 + shipping. I only used Mcmaster for an example and I would guess similar could be had for less elsewhere.

Nothing wrong with a relief valve but it is much larger, and more expensive than needed. For Jim's purpose a bleed off valve that is manually adjustable is all he needs. Easy to use, after pressure comes up and turns off the pump, just crack the valve and let the pressure bleed down to where the pump kicks on again. It can be left cracked open to let the system cycle on and off. A 1/4" npt size is all that is needed. A high pressure tee would be a good idea too. Something more like these: https://www.mcmaster.com/#flow-control-needle-valves/=16on8hm

Nothing wrong with a relief valve but it is much larger, and more expensive than needed. For Jim's purpose a bleed off valve that is manually adjustable is all he needs. Easy to use, after pressure comes up and turns off the pump, just crack the valve and let the pressure bleed down to where the pump kicks on again. It can be left cracked open to let the system cycle on and off. A 1/4" npt size is all that is needed. A high pressure tee would be a good idea too. Something more like these: https://www.mcmaster.com/#flow-control-needle-valves/=16on8hm

Nothing wrong with a relief valve but it is much larger, and more expensive than needed. For Jim's purpose a bleed off valve that is manually adjustable is all he needs. Easy to use, after pressure comes up and turns off the pump, just crack the valve and let the pressure bleed down to where the pump kicks on again. It can be left cracked open to let the system cycle on and off. A 1/4" npt size is all that is needed. A high pressure tee would be a good idea too. Something more like these: https://www.mcmaster.com/#flow-control-needle-valves/=16on8hm

You need a high pressure needle valve for pressure relief to be able to cycle to the pump. There isn't much volume so a very small valve will work fine and the needle type allows fine control. The packing nut may need to be tightened beyond the stock level. Also, be sure to install the valve so the packing and stem isn't under pressure at all times, it needs to be on the downstream side. I have a rig I made for testing on the car and it dumps back to the reservoir but I can't find my pic right now.

I certainly don't see anything wrong with the suggestion at all. I think many of us are making suggestions without the immediate desire to lower the car ourselves. There was a thread some years ago about either adapting or having a custom spring made but I do not remember the conclusion to that one? Wasn't RedRacer (or something like that?) working on a complete coil over setup in the recent past?

Was the flywheel for the stick conversion balanced to the Series II supercharged spec?

They look very much like the optional air struts for the Riviera. which I have on my Reatta. They don't look large enough diameter to be the primary suspension?

Was this block line honed? If the rods look good, they must be getting oil from the mains in the crank. Doesn't really look like an oiling issue, but too tight bearings or misalignment maybe?

Are main studs standard on the Series II? Does it use the same oiling system as the earlier version? How do the rods look?

The spacer idea is pretty much what I meant and I like your sketch, something I sadly lack. My thought was to weld the extension to the bottom of the original part. Essentially material added to the bottom machined with the proper bolt holes. No worry of the extra pivot point. The point about wheel clearance is well taken. It will also raise the anti-sway bar mount since the mount on the strut will be higher, but I have no idea if that would need to be addressed as well.

It looks like Barney has a point about the brakes and Viking about the ABS, so, part #6 either needs to be extended in length to where it bolts to #7 or alternatively, extend the lower mount of #6 where it bolts to the lower control arm. That would reduce the travel available in the strut by the same amount but I don't know how close it is to bottoming to start with.

I believe TunerPro and TunerCat use a bit different nomenclature? If you are looking for the datastream file I believe one of these will work w/TunerPro: 1228253_v03_ads.zip 1228253_v03_ads2.zip

Unknown without comparing the files, but even then, it may be impossible to tell why. The operating systems were constantly evolving, even finding multiple PROM's for a single year. I just compared two 1990 PROM's, ANWU and ATYH, and the only difference I found was the fueling was changed during cranking in a small coolant temperature range. Sometimes calibrations for California enter the picture too, further clouding the matter. Not unlike changing the intake or adding headers to a carb'd engine requiring jetting or timing changes.

Unzip the file and place it in the datastream folder of the TunerPro. The file tells the program how to make sense of the data coming from the ALDL.

I believe $5B2 for a 1990 ecm or you could try the attached zip file for a which is a modified version that contains a command to allow turning off the ECM-BCM communication for faster data display, however it does turn off the dash and climate control when active This is for a 1990 only. 1228253_v03modded_ads.zip

I do not have the .bin but I found my ATYH on Gearhead EFI. http://www.gearhead-efi.com/gearhead-efi/bin/