2seater

Do the exterior front and rear bulbs work? On a '90, the two outer bulbs on the rear must operate or the lights won't flash. There are actually three bulbs on each side at the rear that flash with the turn signals, but the inner one of the three works from a relay in the trunk.

I replaced the front brake hoses which were cracked and flaking the outer casing just above the intermediate clamp. I decided not to do the rear flex lines. They are not subject to the twisting the fronts are and upon experimenting a bit, it appears the steel lines may twist off, even though they are rust free. Not in the mood to remake them at this point. I did get the flushing completed this morning and there does seem to be a marginal improvement in the number of pumps before pump restart. I found it now takes (4) pumps consistently. The other item is it takes the full (25) pumps to get a hard pedal when pumping the accumulator down. With the standard accumulator I generally got 15-18 but the larger Hydac has consistently shown a greater reserve, maybe not at normal braking levels, but an increased safety factor. By the way, the car has 137k miles on it.

I am bringing this thread back as I finally got my car home to complete this run of testing. I moved the first three accumulator observations to this post and added three others. Accumulator "D" is from my beater '89, "E" is Ron's Hydac which is almost new on loan to me in transit to its new home and then "F" is my two year old Hydac. I added the number of "pumps" required for pump restart and the observed fluid drop for each accumulator. Fluid capacity at various pressures Estimated pre-charge Fluid drop in reservoir Pumps to pump restart Working pressure fluid A: 170ml @ 1500psi, 190 @ 2000 and 200 @ 2600 425# .698" 1 pump 10ml B: 155ml @ 1500psi, 175 @ 2000 and 192 @ 2600 500# .670" 1 pump 17ml C: 60ml @ 1500psi, 102 @ 2000 and 135 @ 2600 1050# .475" 2+pump 33ml D: 170ml @ 1500psi, 190 @ 2000 and 200 @ 2600 425# .698" 1 pump 10ml E: 107ml @ 1500psi, 155 @ 2000 and 192 @ 2600 950# N/A N/A 37ml F: 107ml @ 1500psi, 155 @ 2000 and 193 @ 2600 925# .682" 3 pump 38ml The observed fluid drop closely mimics the accumulator capacities noted in the pressure testing. While the Hydac units are larger, the two I have tested appear to have a somewhat lower gas pre-charge than a new standard style resulting in greater useful working fluid capacity, but not as much as indicated by the size. I have never been able to pass the "pump" test, so next on the agenda is a fluid change and all new flex brake hoses to see if that makes any difference.

I think the Kent Moore part is just lovely and I wish it was mine. Granted, I would probably make something for my needs, plus I don't have those lift hooks on any of my engines, but it is so robust, no worries. Heck, I pull my engines with a deadfall chain hoist hanging on a homemade trolley on a doubled up ceiling joist, but that is in the completely opposite direction and I certainly wouldn't work under it.

63Viking has a good point, several of us have been tripped up with the spark plug cable order, particularly the rear cylinders. It certainly could be other things but many times re-examining what was just done pays dividends.

I couldn't help myself.

I am in complete agreement on the sometimes uneasy feeling, like being in a mineshaft w/creaky timbers from an old western. :)

I would think it would be pretty straightforward to make a tee brace for this specific application as drtidmore intends to do. It doesn't need any adjustable slides and such so could be pretty simple. Not looking to start a controversy, but I would bet the completely dressed 3800 weighs no more than 450# and likely less. I have two 3800's on stands now as well as a big block Chebbie, which is probably close to two of the 3800's. A big block 455 Buick comes in around 600#

This is completely frivolous, but interesting to me. This is a chart overlaid with the 1987 GN, LN3 and '95 L67. It was a bit of a surprise the LN3 appears to hold a tiny advantage at the initial launch vs the S/C engine. Interesting the shape of the torque curve between the GN and LN3 is similar, although light years apart in magnitude

Oh, now I understand. Yes, the L27 tpi manifold is a two piece design, upper and lower.

Maybe we can get together when I get my car out, so I can setup to finish the accumulator and switch testing. One thing after another seems to intervene.

I don't know if there is any strength difference between the hydraulic and electronic versions, but I am pretty sure the transaxle continued to evolve and later models had improvements when weak links were discovered. I just don't know much about the details. I don't understand the reference to split intake? The tuned port style came out first on the L27 (Series I), made of cast aluminum, in 1990, but was only available in the Regal. The Reatta got it the next year in 1991. Many of the engine parts are interchangeable, however the crank is different due to the one piece seal, also the rear block machining for the seal assembly. I think the balancer is different as it is a press on, probably due to the future availability of the supercharged version. The camshaft also has a different retaining system on the nose and no thrust button. The heads are the same except for an approx. 5/8" hole for the internal PCV system (easily added). I am using the aluminum tpi manifold on my '89 engine and simply added that hole in the head, actually it's tapped for a pipe plug so either style intake manifold can be used. The Series II is a different animal, came out in '96 I believe. One inch shorter deck height (approx. 8.5"), so totally different rods and pistons. Better heads that "might" bolt on but different valve order.

I started a different thread only to move this information from the tire size discussion. This is a better hp curve comparison for the '88-90 vs '91 engines as I found I could overlay the curves for easier comparison. As stated in the other thread, the '88-'90 curves are identical, which just cannot be IMHO. The acceleration clearly goes flat well under 5000 rpm on the '89-'90 in my experience, and when I installed an '88 cam in my '90 engine, the rpm range was extended. The point of this post is simply to theorize that the '91 has a different final drive ratio to better match the performance envelope of the engine. With the curves overlaid, it is plain that the LN3 has more power below 2500 rpm and actually regains the advantage above 5000rpm, but my opinion would only be the '88 engine.

No doubt that would be true. Just for reference, the Grand Nationals use a 3.42 axle ratio and the same size stock tire as the early Reatta's. Of course that was a different animal If memory serves, '91 owners have generally reported poorer fuel economy. If the power curves below are to be believed, the '88 has a bunch more grunt at low rpm, perhaps lending itself to the higher numerical axle ratio? I have never found the equivalent curves for the '89-'90, at least not ones I trust since they appear to be identical to the '88, and that is impossible due to the known camshaft differences and what I know for a fact from the flowbench. I guess I am getting sort of off topic, but it is loosely related

The 3.31 ratio paired with the larger tire/wheel size yields 3.25 equivalent with the previous tire size.

I believe 16" wheels are standard on a '91 paired with a lower gear ratio?

I may have the "L" shaped one in a parts box or spare manifold. I do not use them on my summer only car so I tap the holes for pipe plugs. I will look.

Is there any possibility the filter is loose and perhaps sucking air? Sort of a long shot and not meant as a disparagement. After the backfire episode, was the modulator changed, perhaps to an adjustable model? Others that have had more experience with transaxle issues will likely have more insight.

Oops! I wish I could claim nothing like that ever happened to me, but I can feel my nose getting longer just thinking about saying it

Hubba Bubba indeed

I have wondered about this too. Everyone's Reattas' are about the same age, but at the same time, fuel pump replacement doesn't occur with great regularity, so what is inside may be unknown to many of us. There is some science I have seen that mentions one or more of the elements in the terne coating that may be leached out by alcohols, primarily methanol and to a lesser extent, ethanol. The formula for terne coating itself has apparently changed over time due to concerns about some elements, primarily lead. From a performance standpoint, alcohols are great fuels, but it certainly comes at a price. High octane and the ability to burn a lot of it is good for the racer, but hurts the average consumer. It doesn't vaporize well in cold weather, so you must have some sort of hybrid fuel to get the engine to start in the winter. I know it is something I will be watching for. I have doctored my fuel occasionally over the years, with acetone, xylene, toluene and race fuel, primarily for knock resistance, so I have treated my system as badly as anyone

It isn't that the regulator goes to full pressure, it can go well beyond. The fuel pump is capable of 100psi or so, if deadheaded, and if you apply positive pressure to the regulator, the fuel pressure will rise in a direct 1:1 relationship. For example, when I was trying more turbo boost, with 10psi in the intake, I would regularly see 55psi on the fuel pressure.

Another casualty of the intake cough? I would think that might affect the diaphragm but your exam didn't show any fuel in the vacuum line? That might cause a momentary spike if fuel pressure as they will increase pressure under boost automatically. Maybe a small piece of debris under the o-ring. Injectors use the same system under the same pressure and you can spin them in place with no leaks? Just spitballin'.

That is a new one? Usually those o-ring connections are about bulletproof. Essentially it is the same as used on the injectors. Is this the oem Bosch regulator?

That is simply wonderful I run both my engines with 180* as I found 160* was just a little too cool, even as a summer only, but this looks like a terrific option if I have knock issues when/if I get too aggressive with boost. Thanks for the update.