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heygibb

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About heygibb

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  • Birthday 06/27/1953

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  1. I use Rockauto for searching out compatible parts for all my vehicles. Sometimes I use them as a source, other times, not. I receive similar notices as this one on occasion, and thought it may be helpful to others. I'm not vouching for quality/customer service, but my experience has been good. This is a list of Reatta parts available currentlly. If the link doesn't work, I'll edit the post. https://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclefeeds.php?carcode=1019911&m=wc&l=en&html=true
  2. Nope. While having it happen isn't optimum, it's good you know about it. It is disturbing though.
  3. Yes. It covers a lot of territory for DIY repairs. It's much appreciated.
  4. Thank you for clarifying my point. I found sources for the motor here, http://oemcats.com/oem-parts/16144370.html , assuming the links are active. It is a simple plug and play deal, once you access the device. I haven't read through your previous thread on this yet, but Ronnie's explanation on the voltage reading sounds plausible. It would lead me to believe replacing the motor only, would be the fix. I was concerned about the existing voltage being a problem, and by extension, the board itself. Chances are, the board is good. My door works easily and, you are right. The connector on the
  5. Here are some pics of inside the controller. I haven't looked at wiring diagram but I'm surprised there is voltage to motor by default, before AC turned on. Does that indicate problem upstream from motor or does the locked up motor prevent the power feed from returning to 0 v? Maybe I'm misreading the info. I'll end up replacing whole thing eventually, but I was thinking of replacing the motor only. If the problem isn't just the motor, I'd be wasting my time. Anyway,... ignition on ACC no voltage at motor Ignition on, no start 4.8v at motor Ignition on, start engin
  6. Yes on the different air locations working...defrost, bilevel, etc. Good to know re vac line. I'm going to try and remove the motor and look inside. I can't be any worse off w/out it. I can position the control lever for AC and get by during the hot months.
  7. One other thing, does the B440 code only tell me the door isn't responding to commands or does it specifically identify the cause? I think I know the answer but thought I'd ask.
  8. That is my intent. As cold as the interior got last night, I think I'll be ok Freon wise. Since I can feel the motor try to engage with my finger on the rotating part, (there is a slight click/movement) does that mean the vacuum input is already present? Is the vac involvement necessary for power to be sent to motor? Or does power get sent to motor, and then, the vac input activates the arm movement? Knowing that would be a way of discerning if vac line is intact, if I can't find it's compromised. I hope that makes sense.
  9. re all I'm convinced refrigerant level is fine from what you are saying, and the chart. So I'll leave it alone. It tells me I don't have a slow leak somewhere, which is good. It's the controller/motor that is the problem. My blend door rod is in the extended HEAT position. It doesn't move when I activate the AC, but I can feel it try to move when I place my finger on top of the pivot arm. So it is getting the current it needs. I dropped my 1/4" universal/torx down in the cavity while trying to extract the rear screw so, to retrieve it, I had to remove the lower covering of that
  10. You guys are spot on, as always. I disconnected the rod clip and moved it to the left. Voila...cold air. After 10 min, the vent temp bottomed out at 56 degrees. Car interior cooled down real nice. The psi reading was 43, after dropping from almost 60 as soon as I moved the rod. So the charge is within the prescribed level, according to this chart. I have 80 degree ambient temp. Anything between 40--50 is called for. So, two questions 1- Is there a fuse/relay that controls the device that actuates the rod? What is the next step in that area? 2- Would you top off the sys
  11. I'll try that. Thanks for the link. I'm getting good air flow in the vents but good to keep evaporator blockage in mind in future.
  12. Both lines attached to accumulator are cold, as is the accumulator. They get cold almost immediately after turning on the AC, w/ condensation. I had to block hot air coming from fan blowback to get a reading w/ my laser thermometer so it probably isn't too accurate. It read 74 degrees. It feels colder than that to the touch...like a cold canned drink would feel.
  13. The rod doesn't move. I tried AC, bilevel, heat...no movement. It is stationary in the position you show in this picture. It looks fully extended.
  14. If I'm not mistaken, some 134a can be bought w/ dye. It's been a while since I needed any so I'm not sure on that. I'll check into it.
  15. I just saw Barney's earlier post re the temp valve control rod. I think that is behind glove box...correct? I just tried the AC w/ a digital meat thermometer in vent by driver. I ran AC for 15 mins. start temp 94 5 min 105 10 min 114 15 min 118 The accumulator gets cold and wet with condensation quickly. It doesn't get "frosty" as I stated earlier...just cold. If the compressor was bad, would that happen? The psi was pushing 60 w/ AC on, full blast. I'll check that rod movement and plan on adding refrigerant, after that. I
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