heygibb

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About heygibb

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  • Birthday 06/27/1953

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  1. heygibb

    Drive train hiccup...does AT need work?

    Just wanted to acknowledge this post. Several things there for me to do, that I have not had the time to do. re the switch... I'm glad you cleared up the switch(es) we are talking about. ? I did a quick search for brake switch and that is what came up, so thanks for the followup. (Of course, that lead to another issue of acquiring a discontinued part for the time when mine eventually fails.) Anyway, I removed the plastic shroud covering the electronics under the driver's side to take a look at them. Not easy to work on but I see their position and how they are installed, if I have to pull one or both. The rain is keeping me from roadtesting for the time being, but I'll check the RPMs and probably the ECM diagnostic readout when I can.
  2. heygibb

    Drive train hiccup...does AT need work?

    I did not check RPMs during decel but I will. You hit the nail on the head. I tried my cruise control on my trip and it did not engage. I need more training to understand some of your acronyms. No clue what DFCO is, but from your diagnosis, I must have a faulty brake switch? If so, is this it? Kudos to ROJ. http://www.reattaowner.com/roj/component/content/article/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&catid=84:brakes-electrical&id=163:abs-pressure-switch-replacement http://oemcats.com/oem-parts/25533700.html
  3. heygibb

    Drive train hiccup...does AT need work?

    Yes, stupid comment by me. Spending hours and hours on this (and your) site doesn't translate into having picked up on every repair. Shifts are definitely firmer. There has to be a connection to the mod change though, otherwise, why the noticeable difference in deceleration now? Your explanation covers the connection.
  4. heygibb

    Drive train hiccup...does AT need work?

    It's funny I've never been aware of that part, considering so many other parts I"ve replaced, some multiple times, in the past 28 yrs. Mine was overdue. But like almost anything you change when fixing an issue, sometimes there are unwelcome side effects . Yesterday, I took a 90 mile road trip and noticed a new performance change. I'm not sure if it rises to the level of being an issue but it is noticeable. For the entire length of time I've had my car, one of the things I liked about deceleration from higher speeds, was how it would seem to coast "forever", at a uniform rate, if I didn't brake. Kind of like a bench grinder with good bearings, continuing to run for a minute or more after I shut down the machine, It was always very smooth and drawn out. I've never had a vehicle do that before and I liked it. Now, I'm guessing the modulator is engaging in this process where it didn't before, because of the tight seal of the new part. From high speed and no braking, every two seconds or so, it feels like the transmission is downshifting and then releasing, to encourage the car to slow down. I noticed it right away and don't care for it. It is subtle and not clunky by any means, but I miss the old elongated rolling stop effect.
  5. heygibb

    Drive train hiccup...does AT need work?

    haha...we have sand here, too. I'll keep your advice in mind.
  6. heygibb

    Drive train hiccup...does AT need work?

    Fluid level is good, if you mean ATF level. Re chirping tires...never done it either. I'm all for cheap thrills...maybe I'll try it.
  7. heygibb

    Drive train hiccup...does AT need work?

    I decided to remove and inspect my OEM vacuum modulator and see if my smaller after market replacement unit fit as it should. After all, 28 years is a long time for a component to work as designed. It turns out, like Ronnie suggested, that the diaphragm had been compromised. While I saw no sign of leakage on the vac line fitting, I did see fluid on the internal end of the mod. After installing the new mod, my test drive was beyond expectations. Idling is smoother and acceleration is very clean at the trouble spot, as well as at other shift points. I couldn’t be happier w./ this fix. There is no telling how long that modulator has been bad. I don’t know how I missed any previous discussion of the vacuum modulator but this repair makes all the difference in the world on the torque converter lockup issue. It’s never been on my radar before now. This has been one of the more satisfying fixes this board has provided. Many thanks. Here are a few pics on what is involved to change it out.
  8. heygibb

    Drive train hiccup...does AT need work?

    All were clean. They were the Bosch Platinum with the funky electrode design. This is what they all looked like w/ 60k miles of use. One test drive isn't necessarily all conclusive. I'll drive the car a bit more and see how she goes w/out the mod change. Suits me if I can shelve it for awhile.
  9. heygibb

    Drive train hiccup...does AT need work?

    All I can say is 'wow'. You Reatta wizards know this car. After plug change, the hesitation/chug disappeared. This is only after one test drive with the Rapidfire brand. My new modulator should get here by Wednesday. Should I change it out? I still have OEM mod installed. I see no ATF in hose or at port...completely dry. I'm all for preventive maintenance but also believe in the 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it' credo.
  10. heygibb

    Drive train hiccup...does AT need work?

    Good to know. I'll do the Rapidfire and change modulator, then check results. Wires may be next. Here is link to rebate for plugs I found at RockAuto in case anyone else is in the market. https://www.rockauto.com/lang/en/promoCat.html#acdelco
  11. heygibb

    Drive train hiccup...does AT need work?

    Has anyone tried the Iridium plugs? If this graph is accurate, they seem to outperform other designs in every way.
  12. heygibb

    Drive train hiccup...does AT need work?

    Thanks, Dave
  13. heygibb

    Drive train hiccup...does AT need work?

    It looks like it's the ignition system. While depressing brake slightly at the trouble point and steady gas pedal, it cleared. I'll do a plug change first. So gap at .060 w/ Rapid fire #14 plugs? I have Bosch now, I believe. I have three separate coils, not the old Magnavox all in one design. Asa, I didn't get the drop in rpms on deceleration. Is this the modulator you speak of? I've never changed it, ever. What brand/design is best suited for replacement? There seems to be two designs. One is like the old and one isn't. Looking at the business end, it looks like it plugs into position. Is that correct? If so, I guess I pry it out?
  14. heygibb

    Drive train hiccup...does AT need work?

    Awesome. I hope your diagnosis is correct. I will try it next time out. I replaced ICM, coils, crank position sensor and cam position sensor in Dec/2015. ..all new. I replaced wires and plugs ~60k miles ago. I'll check back after a trial run. Thanks