heygibb

I'd forgotten all about this post, so I enjoyed your response. More recently, my car would struggle to start, randomly. It reminded me of a vac leak. I checked all the rubber hoses, and there was no dry rot, splits or loose connections. It wasn't until I looked at the hard plastic vac line going into the firewall on the passenger side, that I found it almost broken off at the check valve. It would line up enough to get the engine running occasionally. Frustrating, to say the least. It's something you need to keep an eye on if you haven't before now. Here is a link to a good remedy for the brittle nature of the HVAC line, and performance of the check valve.

I use Rockauto for searching out compatible parts for all my vehicles. Sometimes I use them as a source, other times, not. I receive similar notices as this one on occasion, and thought it may be helpful to others. I'm not vouching for quality/customer service, but my experience has been good. This is a list of Reatta parts available currentlly. If the link doesn't work, I'll edit the post. https://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclefeeds.php?carcode=1019911&m=wc&l=en&html=true

Nope. While having it happen isn't optimum, it's good you know about it. It is disturbing though.

Yes. It covers a lot of territory for DIY repairs. It's much appreciated.

Thank you for clarifying my point. I found sources for the motor here, http://oemcats.com/oem-parts/16144370.html , assuming the links are active. It is a simple plug and play deal, once you access the device. I haven't read through your previous thread on this yet, but Ronnie's explanation on the voltage reading sounds plausible. It would lead me to believe replacing the motor only, would be the fix. I was concerned about the existing voltage being a problem, and by extension, the board itself. Chances are, the board is good. My door works easily and, you are right. The connector on the left end of the rod has been compromised by part of the locking mechanism breaking off due to the brittle nature/age of it. Once I replace the motor, I'll address that. As of now, I have the rod secured with a small cable tie, in the full AC position.

Here are some pics of inside the controller. I haven't looked at wiring diagram but I'm surprised there is voltage to motor by default, before AC turned on. Does that indicate problem upstream from motor or does the locked up motor prevent the power feed from returning to 0 v? Maybe I'm misreading the info. I'll end up replacing whole thing eventually, but I was thinking of replacing the motor only. If the problem isn't just the motor, I'd be wasting my time. Anyway,... ignition on ACC no voltage at motor Ignition on, no start 4.8v at motor Ignition on, start engine, AC OFF 6.39v Ignition on, start engine, AC ON 6.39v Barney, I turned AC on and cycled the door several times. Today, the psi is 45, steady, whether door is open or closed...no difference in pressure. I must have misread gauges last night.

Yes on the different air locations working...defrost, bilevel, etc. Good to know re vac line. I'm going to try and remove the motor and look inside. I can't be any worse off w/out it. I can position the control lever for AC and get by during the hot months.

One other thing, does the B440 code only tell me the door isn't responding to commands or does it specifically identify the cause? I think I know the answer but thought I'd ask.

That is my intent. As cold as the interior got last night, I think I'll be ok Freon wise. Since I can feel the motor try to engage with my finger on the rotating part, (there is a slight click/movement) does that mean the vacuum input is already present? Is the vac involvement necessary for power to be sent to motor? Or does power get sent to motor, and then, the vac input activates the arm movement? Knowing that would be a way of discerning if vac line is intact, if I can't find it's compromised. I hope that makes sense.

re all I'm convinced refrigerant level is fine from what you are saying, and the chart. So I'll leave it alone. It tells me I don't have a slow leak somewhere, which is good. It's the controller/motor that is the problem. My blend door rod is in the extended HEAT position. It doesn't move when I activate the AC, but I can feel it try to move when I place my finger on top of the pivot arm. So it is getting the current it needs. I dropped my 1/4" universal/torx down in the cavity while trying to extract the rear screw so, to retrieve it, I had to remove the lower covering of that area. I thought maybe I'd remove the motor and see if gearing is degraded, but unplugging the harness isn't easy. Is there a technique other than a methodical pulling motion, to get wiring connector off the unit? If it's the vac line causing the hiccup, that would be great. I think that is a good possibility since I feel the motor trying to engage. I can see where the vac line is attached. I'll inspect that connection and then check under the hood.

You guys are spot on, as always. I disconnected the rod clip and moved it to the left. Voila...cold air. After 10 min, the vent temp bottomed out at 56 degrees. Car interior cooled down real nice. The psi reading was 43, after dropping from almost 60 as soon as I moved the rod. So the charge is within the prescribed level, according to this chart. I have 80 degree ambient temp. Anything between 40--50 is called for. So, two questions 1- Is there a fuse/relay that controls the device that actuates the rod? What is the next step in that area? 2- Would you top off the system with more refrigerant? I'm leaning toward getting it down to 35.

I'll try that. Thanks for the link. I'm getting good air flow in the vents but good to keep evaporator blockage in mind in future.

Both lines attached to accumulator are cold, as is the accumulator. They get cold almost immediately after turning on the AC, w/ condensation. I had to block hot air coming from fan blowback to get a reading w/ my laser thermometer so it probably isn't too accurate. It read 74 degrees. It feels colder than that to the touch...like a cold canned drink would feel.

The rod doesn't move. I tried AC, bilevel, heat...no movement. It is stationary in the position you show in this picture. It looks fully extended.

If I'm not mistaken, some 134a can be bought w/ dye. It's been a while since I needed any so I'm not sure on that. I'll check into it.

I just saw Barney's earlier post re the temp valve control rod. I think that is behind glove box...correct? I just tried the AC w/ a digital meat thermometer in vent by driver. I ran AC for 15 mins. start temp 94 5 min 105 10 min 114 15 min 118 The accumulator gets cold and wet with condensation quickly. It doesn't get "frosty" as I stated earlier...just cold. If the compressor was bad, would that happen? The psi was pushing 60 w/ AC on, full blast. I'll check that rod movement and plan on adding refrigerant, after that. I

It isn't cooling at the moment. I used one of those laser temp sensor guns and it reads 94 degrees. I'm not sure how accurate that would be since I only let the AC run 5 mins or so. I guess I need to let it run for 1/2 hour or so to get the surface of the duct acclimated to the air temp the AC is producing. The comp does not kick on and off, as you say. The fan is working as it should, too, if that matters.

My AC isn't dependable. Sometimes it cools and more recently, it doesn't. I had the system changed over to R134a probably 15 yrs ago or so and have topped it off a few times since then. Before buying more refrigerant, I decided to check my system pressures. I don't have a set of gauges so I used the gauges I've saved from previous doses of R134a. The ambient temp is 92 degrees. With the AC off, compressor not running, the psi is around ~115-120. With AC on, compressor running, accumulator frosty, the psi is ~55. That seems to fall into the "charged zone" on these gauges. So, I'm not sure what to do. I don't want to overcharge my system. Is there another component I need to look at? Thanks

Glad I had pics. O ring came with it, in a little plastic bag, as I recall.

Here are some pics I took of my STC2784. It comes with a protective cover over the threads. OEM condition has a red sealant securing it in place. I've had it installed since Nov 2017 with no issues. sorry for the size guys

Welcome to the Reatta club. It takes some effort to keep them on the road but the enjoyment is worth it. I have a 90, so I don't know if the same ABS components fit 89 model. But I used a WABCO STC2784 as the replacement accumulator and it's worked fine. Here is a thread about it. eBay has several vendors selling it. The vendor I used is no longer on eBay but the part is still available. I believe they are sold for Range Rovers and Jaguars. Search STC2784. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=abs+accumulator+STC2784&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=range+rover+abs+accumulator+STC2784

Sean, did you replace the ICM under the coils, too? I am pretty sure that was my problem. The one I removed had a buildup of a dried substance along the edges of where the harness polugged into it. It's an indicator of part failure, I believe. From my experience, I associate the failure with a hot engine. It only happens to me when I'm on the road away from my neighborhood store runs. After the engine struggles to stay running, if at all, I let it cool and all is well. Good luck w/ your diagnosis.

Good point.Thanks, Dave

That's interesting. Full contact would transfer more heat from the block to the ICM, it would seem. At the same time, it would help insure proper grounding, I suppose, but I'm guessing the bolts themselves serve as the main grounding point. Do you use dielectric grease between the two parts? I've read where some people use it.

It's taken a while, but I am changing my ICM, as suggested. I had another episode of "resistance to starting" after a 6 mile trip. It brought back an episode from 8 yrs ago where after a 50 mile trip, my car would not restart until the engine cooled off. The heat buildup appears to be a catalyst to the failure. My current ICM is a pull from a salvage yard from a 93 Olds, I believe. So it has performed for 25 yrs, give or take. I use the Delco coil configuration, not the Magnavox. When I installed it, I spaced the mounting surface away from the block w/ washers, thinking air flow, even if minute, between the two surfaces would reduce heat transfer to the ICM. On this repair, I was curious what the consensus is re the mount interface to the block. Would using the washer spacer trick, with dielectric grease, be optimal? Washers alone? Full mating of the two surfaces, w/out washers, with dielectric grease? I've attached a pic of what I've been running with since October, 2015.