heygibb

My PCV was clean as a whistle...even more so after a dose of carb cleaner through it. It's a PITA to remove and replace though. On a side note, the edges of the rubber hose it connects to show some splitting and was wondering if anyone had ever replaced that section of hose? Does it just pull out w/ a little twist/pull? I found some good info on my code 034 in the included link. I'll clean the MAF sensor as described and check my air filter, and leave it at that. If the issue pops up again, I'll replace the ICM. In the meantime, I'll go looking for more. Thanks for the help.

Correct.

I have one in my trunk from my last trip to the U pull it yard. I'll probably wait and see if I have another failure before swapping.But it would be wise to look for other replacements while it's on my mind. I have a list of GM vehicles that have similar 3800L engines. I need to do an inventory check on the yard I usually go to and locate where they are. It's easy to spend half a day looking. I'll check the PCV. I've put 9k miles on car since I replaced it, but it's worth checking. I'll be surprised if it's gunked up. Results of OBD are : after warmed up, first read I get E 034, E 064 and E 065 as current after clearing data, all I get is E 034...I don't remember what it refers to so I'll have to check into it. I believe the 064, and 065 codes are EGR related. They didn't reappear after clearing the codes. I have a delete plate under my EGR so that is probably related to that. I usually ignore those codes. Within the past few months, I took ~8-900 mile road trip and got 28 mpg, w/ no issues on the trip.

I was just headed out to run onboard diagnostics. From my files, a bad cam position sensor (not needed to start engine) will reduce engine performance and produce Code 41. I'll look for that. 12/15, ~156k miles replaced crank position sensor, cam position sensor, coils...all new ICM from U pull it yard re the CPS replacements...I think I"ve replaced it 3 times in 29 years. I remember damaging one, as it moved off center when I snugged it down...if memory serves.

I did not notice the tach reading, to be honest. I was too occupied w/ pulling over safely and keeping my "freak out" mode under control. I replaced the ICM when I replaced the coils. That might not mean a thing, but just letting you know. I've replaced the crank position sensor several times so I am familiar with that. I need to get my files out to see mileage when I last did it. Maybe all it needs is a check to see if it is still snug and in position.

Recently, I experienced something new for me. I left a restaurant parking lot normally. As I accelerated, the engine seemed to cut off, sputtered (like a bad vacuum leak) and then cut off totally. I was able to get it restarted and haven't had this happen again since. I don't want to get stranded somewhere out of town so instead of ignoring it, I want to find the problem and a remedy. My mileage is 164k and I drive less than 4000 a year. I replaced the coils a couple of years ago but haven't put many miles on the car since. I haven't gone through the onboard diagnostics yet, but is a failing ECM a likely source of the problem? Does an ECM fail intermittently or all at once? The car is 29 years old and still has OEM ECM. Any help much appreciated. Tim

Just wanted to acknowledge this post. Several things there for me to do, that I have not had the time to do. re the switch... I'm glad you cleared up the switch(es) we are talking about. ? I did a quick search for brake switch and that is what came up, so thanks for the followup. (Of course, that lead to another issue of acquiring a discontinued part for the time when mine eventually fails.) Anyway, I removed the plastic shroud covering the electronics under the driver's side to take a look at them. Not easy to work on but I see their position and how they are installed, if I have to pull one or both. The rain is keeping me from roadtesting for the time being, but I'll check the RPMs and probably the ECM diagnostic readout when I can.

I did not check RPMs during decel but I will. You hit the nail on the head. I tried my cruise control on my trip and it did not engage. I need more training to understand some of your acronyms. No clue what DFCO is, but from your diagnosis, I must have a faulty brake switch? If so, is this it? Kudos to ROJ. http://www.reattaowner.com/roj/component/content/article/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&catid=84:brakes-electrical&id=163:abs-pressure-switch-replacement http://oemcats.com/oem-parts/25533700.html

Yes, stupid comment by me. Spending hours and hours on this (and your) site doesn't translate into having picked up on every repair. Shifts are definitely firmer. There has to be a connection to the mod change though, otherwise, why the noticeable difference in deceleration now? Your explanation covers the connection.

It's funny I've never been aware of that part, considering so many other parts I"ve replaced, some multiple times, in the past 28 yrs. Mine was overdue. But like almost anything you change when fixing an issue, sometimes there are unwelcome side effects . Yesterday, I took a 90 mile road trip and noticed a new performance change. I'm not sure if it rises to the level of being an issue but it is noticeable. For the entire length of time I've had my car, one of the things I liked about deceleration from higher speeds, was how it would seem to coast "forever", at a uniform rate, if I didn't brake. Kind of like a bench grinder with good bearings, continuing to run for a minute or more after I shut down the machine, It was always very smooth and drawn out. I've never had a vehicle do that before and I liked it. Now, I'm guessing the modulator is engaging in this process where it didn't before, because of the tight seal of the new part. From high speed and no braking, every two seconds or so, it feels like the transmission is downshifting and then releasing, to encourage the car to slow down. I noticed it right away and don't care for it. It is subtle and not clunky by any means, but I miss the old elongated rolling stop effect.

haha...we have sand here, too. I'll keep your advice in mind.

Fluid level is good, if you mean ATF level. Re chirping tires...never done it either. I'm all for cheap thrills...maybe I'll try it.

I decided to remove and inspect my OEM vacuum modulator and see if my smaller after market replacement unit fit as it should. After all, 28 years is a long time for a component to work as designed. It turns out, like Ronnie suggested, that the diaphragm had been compromised. While I saw no sign of leakage on the vac line fitting, I did see fluid on the internal end of the mod. After installing the new mod, my test drive was beyond expectations. Idling is smoother and acceleration is very clean at the trouble spot, as well as at other shift points. I couldn’t be happier w./ this fix. There is no telling how long that modulator has been bad. I don’t know how I missed any previous discussion of the vacuum modulator but this repair makes all the difference in the world on the torque converter lockup issue. It’s never been on my radar before now. This has been one of the more satisfying fixes this board has provided. Many thanks. Here are a few pics on what is involved to change it out.

???

All were clean. They were the Bosch Platinum with the funky electrode design. This is what they all looked like w/ 60k miles of use. One test drive isn't necessarily all conclusive. I'll drive the car a bit more and see how she goes w/out the mod change. Suits me if I can shelve it for awhile.

All I can say is 'wow'. You Reatta wizards know this car. After plug change, the hesitation/chug disappeared. This is only after one test drive with the Rapidfire brand. My new modulator should get here by Wednesday. Should I change it out? I still have OEM mod installed. I see no ATF in hose or at port...completely dry. I'm all for preventive maintenance but also believe in the 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it' credo.

Good to know. I'll do the Rapidfire and change modulator, then check results. Wires may be next. Here is link to rebate for plugs I found at RockAuto in case anyone else is in the market. https://www.rockauto.com/lang/en/promoCat.html#acdelco

Has anyone tried the Iridium plugs? If this graph is accurate, they seem to outperform other designs in every way.

Thanks, Dave

It looks like it's the ignition system. While depressing brake slightly at the trouble point and steady gas pedal, it cleared. I'll do a plug change first. So gap at .060 w/ Rapid fire #14 plugs? I have Bosch now, I believe. I have three separate coils, not the old Magnavox all in one design. Asa, I didn't get the drop in rpms on deceleration. Is this the modulator you speak of? I've never changed it, ever. What brand/design is best suited for replacement? There seems to be two designs. One is like the old and one isn't. Looking at the business end, it looks like it plugs into position. Is that correct? If so, I guess I pry it out?

Awesome. I hope your diagnosis is correct. I will try it next time out. I replaced ICM, coils, crank position sensor and cam position sensor in Dec/2015. ..all new. I replaced wires and plugs ~60k miles ago. I'll check back after a trial run. Thanks

My 90 coupe is still running fairly well, other than a no start condition I had a few weeks back. I'll address that in another post. But I've noticed a hiccup while underway that concerns me. At 51-53mph, my Reatta seems to skip and chug in the power train. I’m not sure I can clearly describe the symptom but it is more a feel than a noise. It’s like the transmission is between gears and it feels like it’s free from any power influence. If I give it a little gas, it reacts in a staccato fashion, not smooth, before it accelerates normally again. I found a very informative video on how the inner components of an AT interact, perform and fail. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=szu-0IqMygA At around 4:20, he explains a common failure in ATs that involve the clutch pack and friction rings controlling higher gear engagement. There is a stack of thin clutches that react to transmission oil pressure to engage particular gears. The hesitation I am experiencing seems to relate to having degraded friction plates. Maybe they don't grab on a constant basis anymore. Am I on the right track here? If so, is it a condition I can live with for awhile or should I anticipate total failure, at some point? Thanks

It kind of looked similar to Armor All. I have seen the 303 sprayed on car lenses after the oxidation has been removed to delay it happening again. It never occurred to me to use a protectant like that. Thanks for posting the vid. Here is the video where the guy suggests spraying the lens w/ 303 for the UV protection. I can't speak for his lens buffing method since I haven't tried it. His lenses look more dirty than oxidized to me but other folks have made similar videos. YMMV

I've never documented how long my belts last, but I've saturated them w/ spray silicone when installing, and then douse them occasionally after that. I guess it's not as good as this, because I've never had a vehicle that didn't require a new belt at some point. Is the 303 treatment similar to Armor All?

There is a height difference (as well as, volume... .25L vs .32L) and that wrench hex would account for that. My original had a recessed Allen wrench fitting to secure the ball. I'm sure it was OEM, in my case. While talking to the WABCO rep, it didn't occur to me to ask that. I don't enter my car in shows, so shimming the cross brace wasn't an issue for me. It was a simple mod to make things work. The design in your picture wasn't my first choice, for aesthetic reasons. I didn't like the look of the cap extending up like that. Here is a link to Meritor WABCO if you wanted to pursue an answer. As I understand it, this subsidiary handles the warranty claims. http://www.meritorwabco.com/Contact-Information The number I initially called was 866-668-7221. They transferred me to the 248 number of the rep. There is an email link for technical inquiries on that page, too. Here is main company link. http://www.wabco-auto.com/how-to-find-us/contact/north-america-sales-service-contacts/ One oversight on my part, now that I think about it, is that I didn't specify to them I installed it on a Reatta Teves system. My focus was to get some feedback on warranty in North America vs England, and to confirm my accumulator was new by supplying the SN. So, it is possible any warranty claim may hit a snag since it's not a Range Rover. Either way, I'm willing to take a chance on not needing the warranty. My OEM accumulator lasted 27 years, so the odds are in my favor it will last more than 2 yrs. Time will tell, though.