heygibb

You are correct. The times in which I'm not 100% synchronized, the thermostat is activated, my temp setting appears, and the fan turns on.

Thanks for both replies. I'll get into the manual later today. I think I can check those plug wires, too.

Here is what I'm getting w/ the off/temp^ combination push. What am I doing wrong?

I can't put my original back in as it is trashed. I am a little perplexed at it being the ICM, as I had no problem whatsoever starting the car cold prior to the CPS installation. A little while ago, I got it started again, after some effort. I then started pulling plug wires off the coils to see if there was any difference in engine performance. After the third wire, I got bit pretty good so I stopped. But each one I pulled had spark. I'm beginning to think it's the sensor I just put in. I guess that means I just blew $40. I don't think I can return it, can I? As far as returning the ICM, I think it's been more than 30 days. Don't they either work or don't work? If it starts at all, doesn't that mean it's providing spark? re the onboard diagnostic, if I get to read the codes, will it pinpoint any of these ignition issues?

I had this issue a few weeks ago when I first tried this procedure. After holding the "off" and "temp ^" buttons down for 3 seconds or so, all the lights are illuminated for a split second and then they disappear, w/ no codes. I release the buttons once I see the flash. A few weeks ago, I had to try it numerous times before it activated the diagnostic program. I know it must sound like I am pushing the wrong buttons, but I'm not. I need to figure out how to video the process and you'll see what I'm doing, or not doing. Before going to bed tonight, I'll try it again. I'll let you know what happens.

fwiw, I do hear the fuel pump so the relay is good? I just hooked it back up and had a time starting it. Strong starter but took 45 seconds or so to get it to catch. Then it stumbled a bit, spitting and coughing. I let it idle a few minutes, settled at about 700rpm. I turned it off. It would not restart, like it's not getting fire. If my salvaged coil pack/ICM is bad, I will wonder if all this "do it yourself" trips to the boneyard are worth it. I'll look more into the case learn issue. Thanks I forgot to add that I can't get it to read codes either. I'm getting the "all lights flash", then nothing. I had this problem before when I tried to run the diagnostics. I'll keep trying every so often. Maybe it will work one of these times.

Thanks for your input. I don't have a pressure gauge. I don't even want to go there yet. I had no fluctuating idle prior to the repair. It goes up and down between 800 and 1000 now. The car idled, accelerated, and drove fine before. I only had the problem restarting after a short road trip (hour and a half running at highway speeds). I haven't run the codes since the R & R, and haven't disconnected the battery yet. I am hoping for a reset of some sort after doing that and actually driving the car. All I did last night after I finished was drop it off the jack stands and start it up. It didn't start immediately and spit a bit...neither symptom have I had before, when cold. I found some info online that might pertain to my situation. I have not seen this procedure spoken about here before so I don't know if it applies to my engine, but it's a procedure called "crankshaft variation learn", referenced as DTC P1336, for techies. I read about it at a site called 3800pro.com. Here is one of the threads that caught my eye. Do I Need a CASE Learn? - 3800Pro.com Forum The earliest 3800 engine they reference there is '97, so I don't know yet if my "C" era engine would require or benefit from this procedure. I'll post back later w/ any results I get by disconnecting the battery, and/or driving the car.

It took me awhile, but I finally got my ducks in a row and changed out the crank position sensor. The job itself takes a little while to do. Knowing what I know now, I think I could do it in an hour or less. I read quite a bit about this procedure prior to attempting it. What confused me was the recommendation of using a balancer puller to get the pulley off the main shaft. That wasn't necessary. After breaking loose the 15/16" nut, I backed it off a bit but not completely off. It gave me enough clearance to slide the pulley outward and give me the clearance I needed to r&r the CPS. I was very careful about mounting the new sensor in the proper position as to not have any of the vanes hitting it as the engine rotates. Unfortunately, my car is starting harder and hesitating for a split second upon hitting the accelerator during idle. I've never had either problem. Tomorrow I plan on disconnecting the battery in case the computer has to relearn this new sensor. If that doesn't straighten the starting out so that it's normal, I'm not sure what I will do. Any guesses on what I may have done wrong?

Sounds like mine. Starts and runs fine when cold. I have to wait after it warms up to restart. I am replacing my crank position sensor tomorrow, hopefully. Unless I drive the car a bit, I really won't know if it fixed my problem though.

Crankshaft Position Sensor. I got one from Carquest. THere is a little more to replacing this sensor than removing a couple of screws, though. I've read numerous posts on other sites re removing the serpentine belt, the pulley while stabilizing the flywheel, the balancer cover, and setting the sensor up and making sure it's in it's proper position... When it gets complicated like this, I read all I can read before I even start on it. I'll report back on what I end up doing (hire the job out or do it myself).

I'm doing the two nut approach, also, on the mounting plate. From what you are saying, a bad coil will run, if already doing so, but will maybe not start after the engine is killed. Is that correct? I'm going to change the crank position sensor this afternoon. I am hoping to find some comfort in that. I certainly don't want to be stranded away from home due to a faulty sensor. I wansn't able to find a Delco but got one w/ a 6 yr/ 60k mile warranty from Carquest.

Thanks for the info. I have a couple of questions though. Since there seems to be some work involved in getting this thing swapped out, would it be wise to go w/ Delco vs. Autozone type replacement (duralast)? I'm not sure I can find a Delco on a Sat. (tomorrow), but I can get the aftermarket variety. When I got temporarily stranded last weekend, is that a typical scenario w/ a CPS going bad? IOW, does it work sometimes and other times, not?...luck of the draw? Does long distance driving cause it to fail due to heat buildup, if it's headed in that direction anyway? Was having it cool off last weekend the reason it started working again? I guess what I am asking, is should I risk driving this car w/out doing the changeout ASAP? I wanted to take a two hour trip tomorrow but am not sure I should. Thanks again folks.

I appreciate all the input. I didn't realize I'd have to clear that low freon code in order to recharge, so you've saved me a future head scratchin'. i remember seeing that page on cleaning the touchpads a while back. Maybe that is the reason for the quirky diagnostic results. I guess I'll look into the crank position sensor solution. Is "new" the way to go or salvage yard? Thanks.

I agree. The input from many here keeps my car running. I'm not much of a mechanic ...paint by the numbers comes to mind...so the commitment of people here who know these cars inside and out is helpful, informative and entertaining. Kudos all around.

I've been following those instructions. Yesterday, all I got was a quick flash on the dash of all the lights and no following "reboot" w/ codes. Today, it worked the first time. I got six history codes and one current. According to the code list I had the following: b336H loss of IPC data b440H air mix door problem b446H low A/C refrigerant b447C very low A/C refrigerant b552H BCM memory reset indicator I do need a freon boost, but I was looking more for engine related codes. Where do I go from here. btw, after the diagnostics w/ the engine off, I started the car and tried the diagnostics. I got the same thing I did last night...nothing. I then turned the car off, then turn the key over w/out starting to try the diagnostics again. It didn't work. I had the same flashing of lights very quickly and that was it.

OK I'll check back when I can do that. Not so sure I can get to it today.

I'll try again. After holding the off/^ buttons down, I get the flash of all lights on dash. I let go of buttons and wait and wait and wait. The codes should read w/in 30 seconds or so, shouldn't they? I tried holding both buttons down longer and the four leds above the bilevel, economy, heater and defrost illuminate and stay on until I hit the off button. I still get no codes. I cleared my trip odometer prior to doing this. After no codes, I turn the key back to off then back to on (but no start), and my trip mileage is back. I'll try again tomorrow afternoon, with a clear head. Thanks

Haven't checked pressure but there was no fuel in the vac line to the fpr. Thanks for that tip though.

Dang, I missed the memo on the code reader. I just tried the process, w/ the engine off and on. I got the same results. All the lights on the dash light up and go off immediately, on their own. There are no codes showing at all. None. What am I doing wrong? I followed the instructions several times. I"ll keep trying while I wait for more input. Thanks for that info, but w/ no codes, I guess I'm at a standstill. re getting a spark at the plugs, at idle, I can remove the coil wires one at a time and the engine falters. Doesn't that mean it's getting spark at that particular cylinder?

I may have been a little confusing in my post. Like you, when the engine acts up in some way, I reflexively attribute the problem to the latest tweak. Since I had just last week installed the Delco coilset and ICM, I automatically thought that was the culprit. I had a second backup coilset in the trunk, so I pulled the first Delco setup and put in the second Delco coilset. The car would not start so I dismissed the coil as the problem. It was then that I put the first Delco coilset back in the car. After that, it started, for whatever reason. If I had not done any work on the car in the recent past, I would have thought my fuel filter was clogged up maybe. I honestly have been blessed w/ this vehicle, mechanically. I have never been stranded by a breakdown of any kind. When it started spittin' and sputterin', I thought I'd be calling a friend to bail me out. Fortunately, it turned over and started. I drove it like I normally would and had no issues getting home. I'll put the new fuel filter in and keep my fingers crossed. re codes. I have no device to reveal any codes. I've never had it done. Maybe that is what I should do. Thanks for the input.

I'll try to find my gauge. I think I let someone borrow the thing and never got it back. If the psi is off, what do I do then...change the fuel pump? Thanks

From reading other threads, I guess I'm not the only one experiencing engine problems. I recently installed a salvaged ICM/coil pack in an attempt to correct an intermittent problem I had w/ starting my engine. I really was just guessing, since I've never run codes or any diagnostics. My ICM was leaking ooze so I replaced my Magnavox version w/ a Delco setup. Well, I ran my car down the road about 60 miles yesterday, w/ no problem starting, accelerating or cruising. After a short lunch, my car hesitated to start. Once I got it going, it skipped, coughed, sputtered leaving the parking lot so I stayed off the road and drove around the shopping center to see if it would clear up. It didn't so I parked the car to look under the hood. It stalled. I tried to restart and it would not catch. Since I had a backup coil pack in the trunk, I immediately thought the first replacement unit had failed. I exchanged them and it still would not start. I put the first replacement back on and tried to start the car one more time, and it did. I drove home w/ no problem, even stopping at a parts store to pick up a new fuel filter. If after replacing that filter, I still have an issue w/ starting, idling and driving, is the crank position sensor the next thing to check? The plugs and wires are only a few years old. Thanks for any advice.

Hey Marck, I did feel lucky when I saw that car. It's too bad the seats were the wrong color and driver's side bad. They had the 16 way adjustments. If I tried to put something like that in my ride, is the wiring already there? My seats are the standard adjustment type. Thanks again for chiming in. Enjoy this weather, bud. The sun has been nice to see again. Tim

I was thinking the belts were kind of pricey. I know the one on my truck was $30 or so. I was sitting there looking at it and thought I'd check it out. I would not go to the yard just to get an old belt, but it was worth a look-see to me. I'm thinking of going back for some of the sensors. The console would fit the Reatta, but it's the fake burnished wood stuff, so I'm not interested. It does have the CD player in the console, which I had never seen, so that was kind of cool. I'm skipping on that since I have one in my radio. The passenger seat was decent but the wrong color, blue. Maybe I'll look into the door switches and headlight switch. I didn't think of it at the time, but do Rivs have the same type antenna as Reattas? What about wiper motor? Does anyone know if plug wires deteriorate while not being used? They looked fairly decent, visually. Thanks for your suggestions though. I felt lucky to look up and see the "R" hood ornament on that car, having seen the Riviera referenced so many times here.

Your experience sounds like wise advice. I did grab the console's locking mechanism. The yard threw that in at no cost. I looked over the engine and all the electronics are still there. Should I grab the MAF and other things now? I checked out the serpentine belt, because I need one, but it was cracking like mine is.