heygibb

I think I will! Appreciate the affirmation of the pin's purpose.

I marked the pin w/ an arrow on my pic, but see now that black doesn't really show up too well w/out enlarging it.Thanks for the diagram. I just checked and the tach is working. From the diagram, that pin is important. I get no dash warnings. Don't have time to drive it this morning, but will later. I have a brake fluid leak somewhere, ...dripping down onto the tranny pan. If the car drives, I'll cautiously hope it's no big deal. Thanks.

I finally had time to take a trip to the "u pull it" yard today. It was kind of reminded me of Easter as a kid, looking for eggs. The yard I visited had no idea of what was out there or where it might be. So I paid my dollar (yes, there was an admission fee) and set out to find me a Delco coil pack. After about 15 minutes of missing or leaking coil/ICM units, I found a 93 Riv with the complete engine. Upon removing the coil pack, I noticed the connector had a pin missing. I decided I'd take a chance that it would work anyway and bought it for the outlandish price of $15. I hooked it up and she started right up and sounded pretty strong. I haven't taken it on the road yet, but so far so good. Does anyone happen to know what the missing pin might go to? It's the third from the hold down screw on the left side of the connector. Anyway, I wanted to thank everyone for their help on sourcing this out. I kind of enjoyed the hunt. I'm sure I'll go again and "mark" a few more cars for future needs.

You guys have it all wrong. In this age of required frugalism, this is the way to go!

Thanks for that option. I ended up going w/ the capped intake. I used a 3/8" vac line, long enough to reach my Seafoam can (12-18") and controlled the flow w/ a pair of vise grips. That port is a little oversized relative to the hose I used, so I wallowed out the inside of one end of the hose w/ a pointed router bit I had. It slid right over the port easily, yet snugly. The other end went into the Seafoam and was actually a snug, air tight fit in the currently designed bottle.

Thank you all so much. You've saved me some dollars, as well as explained the evolution of this component. I was thinking about buying two setups while I was at it. Reading elsewhere, it's mentioned that I get a hotter plug for the Delco coils and gap ~60-65. Is that necessary or only recommended? Thanks again.

I just uncapped that line and it kills the engine w/ the cap off. The vacuum is very strong there and will easily suck up the Seafoam, but I'm trying to figure out how to keep the engine running w/out overloading w/ Seafoam. How do you keep the engine running when using that line? Do I squeeze the hose off w/ pliers while immersed in the can? In the past, I was able to just lift it out of the fluid as it sucked it's way down the can. I'm afraid that will kill the engine, having it sucking air.

Right. I usually take it slow, letting it almost stall the engine but not quite. Good advice.

OK I'll see if I can find any sources for the part. Thanks for that tip.

That sounds real good. I'll hope to have the same kind of luck. I guess the Jacobs coils will go on standby status. Thanks

Thank you for educating me about the difference between the ICM and the coils. As to what to do now, I have tried removing the coil wires, one at at time, w/ the engine running, to see if any were faulty. Every one of them caused the engine to falter as I removed it, so I was not completely sold on the coils being the problem. From what you recommend, I might only need a new ICM. However, if I were to upgrade to the Delco coils, I'd need the different ICM/adapter plate for that. That's how I understand it from reading Padgett's page (Padgett's web page). Does it make sense to make the change completely, even if my current coils seem to be working? I understand the Delco units produce more current, but if mine are still firing, is a change needed? What kind of money will I be spending at the u pull it? Thanks

Thanks. I'll try that tomorrow.

I am troubleshooting a starting issue I am having and have spent considerable time reading of others' solutions. I have never replaced the coil and have concluded from the seepage I see below my ICM that it wouldn't hurt to replace my original. I want a new unit and decided to go w/ Jacobs. This is the one I am looking at JEGS Performance Products 40125 JEGS Buick DIS Coil Pack If I order this unit for a '90 vehicle, is there any question that it will fit? I seem to remember cautionary comments about making sure replacement units will fit properly before ordering due to changes between the Magnavox and Delco mounting surfaces. Should I feel confident in ordering this model for my car? Thanks

Hi folks. I'm attempting to induce some Seafoam into the manifold via the vacuum line located near it. I've done this in other vehicles and been successful. I am finding that there isn't enough vacuum on that port to do the job. I let the car warm up and still no discernable vacuum. What would be the cause of low vacuum there? Can I spray carb cleaner in that port to clean it out? I will add the Seafoam to the gas tank anyway, but wanted to apply it more directly to the manifold. Is there anything I can do to correct this? Thanks

I was driving down the main boulevard in my home town and saw the striking lines of a red '89 a few cars ahead of me. It was one sharp car, as was the petite blonde driving it. I noticed it had dealer tags on it and followed it down the road a ways, checking them both out. About a year later, I get a job remodeling the interior of the Buick dealer's house. The blonde is his trophy wife. I meet her and tell her about seeing her in the Reatta awhile back. She says it's on the used car lot now, being sold as a demo. I go check it out. I'm drooling over this car, mind you, and am told they'll let it go for $19,200. That was quite a drop from the MSRP at the time. Before making the deal, I decide to look around in the Raleigh area for comparable cars. Lo and behold, I find a red '90 program car for $18,900. It had 6.9k miles on it from being in a rental fleet in Florida, but was like new. It had never been smoked in, from the looks of the cigarette lighter and ashtray, and I bought it. I couldn't pass up a year's value for the significance of owning the '89. As an aside, a funny comment was made to me by one of the other subcontractors on that job re owning a Reatta. I had told him about seeing the homeowner's wife driving it months before and how much I liked that car. He told me people like us could never afford such a car. I guess the jokes on him. I still have mine and love it more as the years pass. Like others have said, people approach me in parking lots wondering what it is. They can't believe it's 20 years old....makes me smile.

bttt

Thanks for the input. The sound of the roar is definitely affected by steering changes. I'm putting the fronts in anyway...can't hurt, either way. I've got ~120k miles on the girl so I feel good about it. Appreciate hearing of the other symptoms re the rear. I'll know what to listen for when they wear out. Just to follow up...I purchased the replacement hubs from Advance online, using the aforementioned discount codes. I ended up paying less than $60 each for the two front hub assemblies, plus I got free shipping. Removal and installation went very smoothly. I was able to use the loaner tools at Autozone (36mm socket and hub/gear puller). The only detail I would add to the write up Estaver posted on Ronnie's site is to mention the caliper bolts are 18mm. Thanks for all the help. It felt good saving a few dollars and getting my car back on the road. Happy Thanksgiving everyone.

I'm expecting my parts today (hub assemblies, both left and right). I've sprayed PB blaster on parts that may need it. However, I have a question to deal with. Once jacked up, I tried to get wheel movement w/ pressure at 6 and 12 o'clock. There is no movement in either of the front wheels. I do have the roar and it's from the front, as far as I can tell. Could the roar be coming from the rear? Are the fronts bad if I get no play when pushing and pulling on the edge of the tire/wheel? I am wondering if I have misdiagnosed my problem, at this point. Please chime in if you have a tip for me. Thanks

Nothing like a positive experience to motivate me to do this! lol Affirmative on the "hub nuts". I've got plenty of PB blaster. Maybe I should start soaking things now.

Good info guys. Being able to borrow the hub nut socket is a plus. I've been watching hub assemblies being replaced on you tube and none involved using a hub puller. They all were loose enough to be worked off by hand and maybe a little light prying behind it. I guess being 20 yrs old contributes to that need. I'll let you know how it goes once I get the hubs. I'm leaning toward the Timkens, even though they cost a little more. Is replacing the hub nuts necessary, or just recommended?

Anyone had any dealings w/ 1AAUTO ? They sell aftermarket parts but have a 2 year warranty. Red flags up here on quality. I'm thinking of cheap tools that have lifetime warranty, ...if they are crap, the lifetime warranty is worthless.

Thanks all. I was concerned about my safety until I could make this repair. I'll feel a little better about driving it now based on what you have said. I found the hub assemblies at hubbearing.com for $67.10 plus free shipping...Timken brand. If I can convince myself I need a few more items, I'll take McReatta's advice...save a few more bucks but have to spend more to take advantage.

Thanks for the confirmation re the '90. The noise decreases w/ turning but I didn't note the distinction between L and R. I am going to replace both, as suggested elsewhere. I've got close to 120k on the car. This is the first time having to replace the hub assemblies. Do you have any idea what kind of danger I have been in driving it as is? Since the bearing is shot, have I been creating more damage? As an aside, before I replaced my front tires, I raised the car on jackstands and put it in drive. The noise wasn't evident, so I changed the tires. I guess the weight of the car is what creates the noise. Live and learn.

It looks like I have to replace my front hub assemblies. I've developed a roar that is affected by the direction I am steering. I mistakenly thought it was my front tires, as they were getting a little thin. After replacing them, I still had the roar. If I was a WWII bomber crew member, I'd say the sound mimics a B24 taking off. Pretty loud. I've looked at the hubs at Autozone and they are no where near $30. Your post is pretty recent. Their price on Timkens as of this minute is $92.99 each. Did you make a typo when you posted? Also, where can I get the instructions on doing this job myself? I saw the how-to at Ronnie's site, but it is for an '89. Will my '90 be the same? I've been driving w/ this enormous roar for several weeks, so I want to get this fixed asap. Thanks for any advice, sources, info.

Here is a source for replacement antennas. I've not tried this company...just happened upon it. 1990 Buick Reatta Parts & Replacement/Aftermarket Body, Engine Parts, Bumpers, Lights, Drivetrain, Accessories