RetroJohnny

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About RetroJohnny

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 04/22/1999

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Memphis, TN
  • Interests:
    cars, travelling, friends, making my Reatta shine.

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  1. Thanks everyone for the thoughts. I'm going to watch this more closely and see if there is something burining off a part of the hot engine.. And yes for real, two transmission shop gave me the insane explanation that the "refuse to do transmission filter changes on cars with over 150,000 miles in fear they would lock the transmission up with new fluid. Because the old fluid adds to lubrication" So what, just let it leak forever? Haha.. I think I may do that job myself now, thanks for the reassurance that it'll all be okay if it gets changed.
  2. Hello everyone. Ever since my last oil change about 1,500 miles ago, I have noticed when starting the Reatta I can see white/grey smoke coming from engine bay licking out from the passenger side of the hood. I have since opened the hood and watched and inspected the smoke. For about five minutes after start-up smoke comes from down in the engine bay behind the enigne on the passenger side only. My first thought was that maybe there is a small oil leak since I had switched to synthetic and it has eroded bad seals and leaking oil onto the exhaust manifold. But I am at a loss, The oil level is right on point and no noticeable oil leaks. I do know for a fact I have a bad bottom-end transmission pan gasket. I see occasional drips right below the transmission. I would dread to do that job and most tranny. shops around here refuse to do it in fear that a new gasket/filter + new fluid would lock the transmission up... So my main concern right now is that smoke, I would love to find the root cause but I can't. It is in such a broad area. Some details on the smoke itself, whiteish to greyish. chemical/tar smelling. stops smoking soon after startup. Temp guage reads a constant 188-201 F so I don't think it could be a head gasket issue (I sure hope not😅) . And for exhaust smoke.. Everything seems fine, on a cold start the usual emissions come out for a couple of minutes then the engine warms up and it dissipates. So I am very curious/worried on what this could be. Any thoughts? Thanks.. -John B.
  3. https://www.carsforsale.com/vehicle/details/37924 I found another one too! How odd
  4. Check out this link, the bottom of the doors have some sort of design on them? Thoughts? https://www.autolist.com/buick-reatta#vin=1G4EC11C7KB901705
  5. Okay, Thank you Dave! That was what I was thinking, and hoping for!
  6. Hello everyone. I am revisiting my CRT issue after a couple of months. I am king of procrastination. I have just finished fixing up my daily driver, and now the spotlight is back on the Reatta. The CRT is very indecisive on when it wants to work. It will be perfectly fine for 20 to 30 minutes, then all of a sudden it'll start lightly flickering then BAM, full on static. Sometimes that static even stops and the screen goes completely black. But here is the catch, the screen still responds to touch even if it has gone dark. Then after a couple minutes of darkness, you can hear a high pitched tone and all of a sudeen it flickers back on into perfect picture. SO I am torn, is it the CRT unit itself that has an issue OR is it the CRT Controller (I really don't know much of anything about the CRT Controller) ? And it's not too dire of an issue to deal with, because I have memorized where most buttons are for Volume/ A/C, etc. But I am trying to make this Reatta roadtrip worthy, and this would need to be on the to-do list. I would love some trained Reatta pros input on this! ?
  7. Hey guys so you know that saying... if it's not one thing, it's another! Welp thats where I am at. I was leaving a parking lot earlier today and all of a sudden the CRT just started jittering and then suddenly went static. Occasionally it will pop back into place, but for all of tonight it has mostly been static. Really weird right. No problems with it before, it just all of a sudden happened. So I know it's not going to get better so I know there is a guy that deals with these things, anyone know some contact info? Or what I could do, I heard these things are a pretty penny to buy "Newly Refurbished" so I would prefer to just get mine fixed! There is a picture I took tonight to show example below. Thanks for everyone on here.
  8. Hey folks, so I am going to go through with replacing the TCC Solenoid on the 89' Reatta, I believe that is my issue for sure. But I can't really find good directions on the internet for the 440t4 TCC Solenoid replacement and the Manual is sort of short and to the point with it, no pictures?. So I was wondering if anyone that has done this and would give me or refer me to step by step directions to this replacement. I really really do not want to take it to a shop, that is the last thing I want to do. And if I did one day down the road I would probualy get it all rebuilt, this old 4-speed is in need of some love...
  9. Yes, I have checked the codes, the only code I found was E039, which the Reatta Service Manual reads "TCC Circuit" , So hey, maybe it is that simple of a fix. And I couldn't be the ignition coil or ICM, those were replaced not two months ago becuase I had exactly your problem, sticky gooey stuff coming out of it. But exactly your thought, the TCC is what the computer thinks it is, so that is going to be my first fix! I checked and they are about twenty dollars on RockAuto.
  10. I had a similar issue happen to me, woman backed right into me, totaled the whole driver door. I called my insurance comany and their first thought is that they were just going to total the whole car, after some negotiations (and begging) they paid me out the value they thought the car was worth, so I guess I am a somewhat rare case maybe, but a call wouldn't hurt and you would for sure meet that $500 deductible.
  11. Any 3.8L Pre-Series Engine (LN3) is a direct fit, those are from 1988-1991, you can get a Coil from a series I or series II, 1992 to 2003 I believe, but you have to do a little tinkering to the more modern ones to make them fit, many people on here have done so though.
  12. Thank you so much, I am actually planning on looking into the TCC Solenoid, heard they aren't too hard to replace. But also everytime it rough shifted the CRT would read "Electrical Problem has Occured, Sericve Soon." So my guess it has to be elecrical if the computer is aware of it.
  13. Hey everyone, long time since I've been on here, been real busy with work and what not. But I've done a lot to my Reatta, new front supension including struts and mounts, and it really is turning out into a perfect little roadster except one underlying issue. My Reatta has always had rough shifts here and there, but lately its been completely absent and shifting great. Up until today... After driving 70 + on the interstate for 20 or 30 miles, back on a smaller highway all of a sudden the transmission suddenly started freaking out. I say this because once I hit about 45-50 MPH it would be constant slipping and failure to upshift. Just terrible abrasive jolts. It would not allow me to exceed 50MPH. So we drove it straight home and I checked the fluid and it's right on par. There are some air bubbles in the fluid though (leak possibly?) but there are never puddles in the garage, and my Reatta has put 500 or so miles on it in the past month. So this is a new issue for me, and I was wondering if any of you know where I could start looking to pinpoint this issue... Hopefully not a new transmission ? Thanks!
  14. Wow, those are crazy low prices, My mechanic said with parts and labor new subframe mounts would be right at $950, and that just is NOT worth it to me, I will stick to my PB blaster, I have noticed a small squeak, and my mechanic suspected it was the subframe mounts or the strut mounts, but I'm am going to be the cheap guy I am and just replace the front struts plus the strut mounts and just leave the subframe alone.
  15. Really? That is a pricy wheel alignment, It must differ from area to area, cause around here they are no more than $65