2seater

Sounds like a good price on a good oil, and is appropriate for all of them. Now if you can just get fuel for all of them, life will be rosy.

3800’s into Fiero’s is a very common swap. Try GMTuners for some detail.

Well, I don’t know what change the timing might make, especially if not in a location with consistent temperature. The two interior air temperature, sun load and in car temp, are way in left field and would ignore them. A little sunshine through the glass would change things dramatically. It is interesting both the ecm and bcm report the exact same temperature, which makes sense if they are both reporting the single coolant temperature sensor. That leaves the underhood temperature in the air filter box MAT, the high and low side refrigerant and the ambient air temperature which are all within a four degree range. Not bad for over thirty year old sensors and would consider that a non issue. The coolant reading much cooler is sort of unusual, but I suspect as the day warms up, the coolant will lag behind the other temperatures under the hood? I would doubt these readings would have much effect on the AC performance but may want to check coolant temperature against a heat gun or actual thermometer.

I have never seen numbers quite like that? This is an '88, correct? I am not as familiar with the touchscreen so I am not certain about a blinking check engine light, but mine blinks when in diagnostic and closed loop. I will need to drive mine and see what mine does again, just for confirmation, but those numbers are extremely high. Ordinarily, that's a good thing, but seems out of range, and the dropping to zero shouldn't happen for extended periods. Almost seems as if dropping out of closed loop for some reason. What is coolant temperature indication? The previous comments about exhaust leaks and catalyst issues are certainly valid. Coasting downhill the forces on the drivetrain are somewhat reversed, engine vacuum is high and it is holding the car back to a small extent, less so in overdrive above about 50mph where there is almost no engine braking. Does it seem to vibrate more when idling or moving in reverse?

I don't think it has set long enough to equalize all the different areas of the car, and it must be a fairly warm area to be in the 70'sF at 3 am😎 I think any mileage change is purely coincidence.

If I understand, the engine shakes when not under load, like going downhill? The first thing I would do is watch the O2 sensor cross counts, ED18. It is the easiest way to get an idea if it is functioning properly. More cross counts is better. It needs to be warmed up and driving to get the best overall picture

Wabco STC 2784 Multiple sources online including eBay. This is a larger accumulator, equivalent to the Hydac, .33liter vs the .25liter standard. Usually requires adding a washer or two under the mount for the strut tower brace.

Does the CRT work? The module in the photo is definitely not the ECM and is called the information display module for the (CRT) for an '88, reman. If they are changing this module and the engine runs differently, something is very peculiar. Perhaps it is just coincidence and it simply runs better for a while until heat or vibration causes the issue to crop up? The ECM is located forward of the glove box, mounted vertically, with three large connectors on the bottom. Typically and engine that runs okay until warmed up that develops a misfire it is the coil pack and or ignition module below the pack. The ECM can also be subject to failure when hot. I suggest you or the mechanic visit the Reatta Owners Journal website and at the top of the page are links to diagnostics, repairs and a multitude of issues solved by actual owners over many years. Padgett mentioned the correct part numbers above.

Ahh, made the assumption it was ECM but I had the 1228253 number stuck in my head, so it looked wrong. I didn't know how wrong😣 Many of the same suggestions apply but shouldn't affect engine performance unless I am missing something? The underhood wash would be more likely, especially where harnesses connect or sensors plug in. Look hard at the ones concerned with the ignition, but anything that can be disconnected, checked for moisture and plugged back in would be in order.

I agree with the above suggestions that it sounds like a connection problem, more specifically a grounding problem possibly. Battery connection, which connects to three points from both sides of the battery. Ground is connected to the big terminal under the ICM, to the radiator header panel near the battery and the ground busbar inside the black plastic box on the fender behind the battery. There is also a large ground stud on the top rear passengers side corner of the engine, behind the power steering pump, sort of buried under the engine harness which connects to the injectors and other sensors. Most of what the ECM does to activate items is to switch their ground on and off, like the injectors, torque converter clutch and possibly others. The battery plus side goes direct to the starter, the alternator output and the hot busbar inside the red plastic box on the fender just to the rear of the battery. Is that the correct ECM for an '88?? The part number doesn't sound right for an '89 or '90 but I haven't dealt with an '88 directly.

When I looked through the 'yard last fall for a donor for my sons deer hit car, I talked with the counterman about prices and he mentioned some Riviera fenders were steel and others were plastic. No more detail than that but it may have been a model year change.

The Riviatta. I am no expert but while looking at possibly doing the same, that looks to be the later models? Actually, now that I think of it, it should be in the FSM as they were shared mechanically

I can only offer this possibility: we were resurrecting an ‘89 for my grandson last year. It had a number of gremlins and one of them was an O2 sensor issue. We had a clue there was something long term going on there as the car came with a small notebook that roughly listed the items serviced over the last few owners. We noted the O2 sensor was replaced several times so two of us traced the sensor wire back to the ecm. We then connected a ohmmeter to the two ends of the wire which appeared to have continuity so we simply disconnected the appropriate plug on the ecm, sprayed with contact cleaner and plugged and unplugged a couple of times. The O2 problem went away so a poor connection was the likely problem, but later we swapped ECM’s for a different reason so I am not certain about the cure over the long haul

yup, wrong cover but looks excellent overall

As far as I know it is a good way to see how far the temperature sensor has drifted from new. I do the same comparison?

Dang, that is extensive and expensive damage to the glass, aside from the other cosmetics. A crying shame for sure. Insured??

Looks pretty good. Hard to judge brightness without a comparison side by side. The stray light in the center may be acceptable as a locator if well controlled and filtered.

My housings are E spec and about 20 years old. I know there is a Z beam light that has a raised horizontal cutoff on the right side but mine angle up on the right side with no cutoff. Yes they have the rubber boot on the rear that the prongs stick through. The are a very tight fit and I must give the plug an extra seating push through the space at the rear with the lights closed or just manually cracked open. Not ideal, but the lights work well. 80/100w bulbs, hence the burned out headlight switches until the twin relay harness was added. The Hella brand was available when I looked for something way back when and they do make many oem lights as well. When I had 7" and 5.25" round, I forget the par number, both in headlights and driving lights I used Carello in the 80's and then Cibie. I don't recall ever trying Marchal's. Now everything I have are modern composite housings except the Reatta of course.

Yes, H is halogen but it is just an incandescent light with a noble gas to redeposit the vaporized metal to the electrode to allow hotter burning? HID is a totally different animal, an arc light in effect. I have used E code type lights for decades, Carrillo, Cibie and Hella. There are two downsides I have encountered and one is the lack of scatter which sometimes makes non observant motorists, especially cross traffic, not see you coming because they are used to the bright marker light effect. The other is travel in hilly rolling terrain where the cutoff will not illuminate the rising road ahead. Hard to believe in this day and age that the decorative effects of lighting on the front are more important than actual performance. Just read test reports on new vehicles that rate all sorts of safety items, crash tests and other items. Note how many brand new cars have marginal ratings in headlight performance, but they look cool😖I should say the H in H4 may not mean halogen, but may just refer to a bulb and connection style. The operation of the bulb uses the halogen cycle.

I believe the lights referred to use conventional H4 incandescent bulbs. The beam pattern of the euro spec has a very sharp horizontal cutoff which is much more friendly than many modern cars with all different types of headlights that have horrible light scatter. I don’t know if the lighting approval agencies test for light output in incorrect or unintended locations but if so, they do a lousy job

Are these the units with a removable H4 bulb? I have had them for many years and I have found the same issue but I was able to wedge the plug onto the bulb after housing installation.

I do know some of the history, but the OP doesn’t. A short synopsis as stated would go a long way to providing a little context. Believe me, I do understand owner mechanical experience and expectations are a huge factor.

Nice haul. The general way to test is to plug it into the car😉

Well that's a well reasoned response. 😣

They are alloy wheels with aluminum being the base metal but what the other metals are can vary. I imagine you are spot on regarding the purity of the material having a bearing on the value🤑