2seater

The one item that is sort of close to the IAC is the EGR which does have a "hot in run" connection, plus the ECM grounds. Technically, the injectors do too. It should be pretty easy to discriminate between them, but they are the only other items that might "click" when activated, so it is unlikely but?? They should be dead with key off too.

I agree with the above, which sounds like it comes from experience🙂. I did double check FSM wiring diagram and the wiring for the IAC connects to the ECM only, no other source of power. I couldn't venture a guess what might be keeping the ECM awake and trying to adjust idle speed on a dormant engine?

I am somewhat out of ideas at this point, but even though it does sound obvious, you should check that there isn't some sort of throttle cable anomaly causing the throttle to hang up at times. When it is in one of its high idle moods, just manually check the arm under the hood to be sure it is in closed position. The other item to watch is the IAC counts in diagnostics. You need to sort of develop a feel for this one as it isn't a static number. The counts will increase when you open the throttle so it is ready to catch the engine and let it down smoothly if the throttle is snapped closed and you can watch the counts as the engine warms up where they should slowly decrease to bring the idle down. Once you have a feel for what the counts are at a good warm idle, you can see if they are out of that range when it acts up, either high or low. If you are familiar with diagnostic overrides, you can manually close the IAC from the driver's seat to see if the idle can be forced lower by overriding the IAC.

Any time things are changed or adjusted, the ECM may need time to fill in the desired settings, so driving it under varied speeds and loads is a good idea. You can sometimes see the difference by disconnecting the battery so the ECM starts over from its base programming. It may run better or worse for a bit until it fills in the blanks. As Ronnie alluded to, sometimes a sensor is out of range enough to cause the ECM to adjust, but not out far enough to set a code. That is much of the reason as a test to sometimes disconnect a sensor, like the MAF for example, which forces the ECM to substitute a programmed safe setting. It is possible for an ECM to be bad, but not common.

The TPS range sounds like it is spot on now. The ECM must learn the new parameters now that the sensor has been corrected so it will take a little time for it to adjust. Even better is to disconnect the battery ground for a couple minutes to force the ECM to start over and learn from scratch. In any case, It really needs to be driven for a while for changed settings to be accommodated. A new O2 sensor as suggested is always a good idea if the existing ones history is unknown or you are chasing a mileage issue. It is usually a good idea to make one change at a time to see the effect but the O2 replacement is an exception.

Yes, loosen mounting screws and rotate to .38-.42v. Does it increase with throttle as it is now? I don't remember ever seeing one that far off unless there were other issues.

A darn shame for sure. I hope the future is brighter.

By and large, they should have little to no effect on the running of the engine, especially if they are all history. Something else is going on that doesn't set an ECM code. The advice above with simple and zero dollar investigation is a good place to start.

Hard to tell without the entire number and prefix but those all appear to be BCM codes?

Fuel or the lack of it won't set a code. Neither will failures in the ignition module and coil pack. If you suspect fuel, the first thing is to put a gauge on the fuel rail and find out what the actual pressure is. Is the check engine light on or are there any history codes in diagnostics?

Yes, and the .38-.42v is at idle position. It should increase smoothly to over 4 volts at full throttle.

The first thing to check is the TPS voltage, ED01, in diagnostics. Should be .38-.42v. I just had one last summer that had an erratic idle and found the TPS voltage high and when trying to adjust it, the voltage would bounce all over. In short, the TPS was going bad. Could be other things but start there. Easy and free to do

Just to be clear, are the items mentioned, crank sensor, coolant temperature, iac and tps all new and installed?

Oops, the Daves car behaving badly is on ROJ. My bad

Many of the same symptoms that Dave's89 started out with which got progressively worse, thread is recent about his car misbehaving. In his case the crank sensor was loose in the holder. Just spitballin' but likely everything held tight when cold and looser when warmed up. I just reread the above thread and neither the ICM below the coils was replaced nor the crank sensor. I may have missed that but both items are temperature sensitive. The 3300 does not have a cam sensor if memory serves, it is a batch fire fuel system. The same items as above should be looked at, actual fuel pressure, fuel pressure regulator hose for fuel leaking, and spark while cranking. Disconnect the MAF and see if that helps the warm richness issue. It should start and run with the MAF disconnected.

Mine is similar, but is better in warm weather. I think it is alignment and lubrication. The power lock is back at the actual latch but the indicator for the latch is forward by the handle. I would spray the latch mechanism with some fine oil to see if there is improvement before taking the door apart. If it improves, a more thorough job can be done with the panel off.

Looks nice but the missing horn buttons does make one wonder what other detail may be awry? The most common color combination, not that it is bad, but isn't rare, and it's a coupe. No pics under the hood or in the trunk? Good to see optimistic pricing which is good for the collector, if it were even slightly realistic. I am no hotshot on links either but I think this will work: 1991 Buick Reatta for Sale in Gresham, OR - OfferUp

The last couple of years just seemed to go by in a blur so looking for this one to be much better. I know you people are tough up in MN but maybe it's time to put away the flip-flops and tank tops so the rest of us don't look like sissies😎

I thought about this later. How about downloading a decibel app? Lots of them online for free. It isn’t so much for the sound level in this case but it also indicates the frequency of the sound. Maybe can derive a hint from that?

It doesn't sound unusual to me, but hard to gauge the actual volume without electronic capture. The chain damper rides against the back of a segmented chain, the chain runs over sprockets and the oil pump is a gear within a gear type, a gerotor. All would likely produce some sound and while it sounds familiar, I cannot judge what it might be. How many miles??

Perhaps a little more specific information will help, ie; no display, inaccurate etc..?

I had one do the same and I replaced it with one from Jim Finn

Hopefully someone with better directions chimes in but the door assembly is made of multiple pieces that each can be loosened and moved. The first thing that comes off is the black plastic inner liner to reveal the inner pieces that can be moved. I don't have a better description than that. The door on all of the Reatta's I have had don't fit perfectly, it is an essentially flat panel inset into a curved surface. The mount for the base of the arm is inside the wheelwell and is accessible behind a removable panel in the wheelwell. This area is prone to rust but only inspection will tell.

The usual place for the original would be one of our parts vendors, such as Jim Finn, but I believe that is sort of built into the harness itself. It is supposed to clip through the metal bracket on the rear of the engine, but plastic gets awfully brittle in that location above the exhaust. Personally, I would install an insulated metal cable clamp and bolt it through that bracket. Only '88-'89 have that harness routing, it was rerouted and mostly eliminated on '90-'91.

The description of the time it has spent outdoors, unprotected, is very different from the first post to the last?? Are the descriptions of the car from two different time periods? It would run and drive if it just needed an IPC but bad brake lines is trailer only. If it has sat idle for ten plus years, the fuel system will be a mess internally too. Unfortunate