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RiggerParish

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  1. I removed the switch to see if it affected the draw and it was obvious something wasn't right. A black wire had been spliced on to the blk/wht wire for the headlight switch. I removed it and repaired/insulated the blk/wht wire. Now there is no parasitic draw and battery is in good health. Any idea what that black wire could have been for?
  2. The parking light switch works normally, when I press it the parking lights come on and when i press it again they go off. Then when I turn the ignition off and remove the key, the parking lights are off but the circuit is still drawing 400 ma.
  3. I decided to figure out why the car battery drains when not driven regularly and I found out that the parasitic draw of 0.40 amps was being caused by the parking lights. As soon as I pulled the PK LPS fuse (position 10) the draw went down to 0.03. Looking through the service manual, at the wiring diagrams, is making me quite nervous. Is there any simple things to check first? For now I just remove that fuse when I park it for a few days. Thanks 1990 Coupe
  4. Thank you Ed and Ronnie for the kind and encouraging words and thank you to all who contributed to what turned out to be a rather simple fix. It is quite embarrassing to be honest but I really don't mind, one day someone might stumble over this thread with the same issue and go out to the garage and fix it in 2 minutes. That makes it worth it! I have learned a lot of things about my car in the pursuit of a correct idle and as a result am a more competent Reatta mechanic! The idle is smoothing out and getting lower as I test drive it so I'd like to thank everyone again for your sharing of knowledge and patience. This drive past is for you!
  5. Thanks, Ronnie. More often than not I miss things, but the help on here is invaluable and gets me back on track! Padgett posted a helpful chart a while ago with temperatures and the idle it should be at at those temps. At 80 degrees C the idle should drop to 625 but mine is never lower than 750 unless in gear. It also idles erratically on occasion between 750-900, up and down. So still more things to iron out, just happy to be making progress. Video of the new idle with ED22 displayed.
  6. I do remember that. I was under the misapprehension that it was fully closed, in the correct position about a month ago. As you have highlighted, I am not perfect.
  7. They were not right! I backed the idle stop out and it immediately helped the situation. it'll fire right up at about 1000rpm and then slowly reduce to about 900/800 then when fully warmed up it drops to 700/750rpm (600 in gear). Still a touch high which I could bring down to a really nice 625rpm with the help of ES09 but this override only works in diagnostics, correct? I guess I cant just set that as my idle and it memorizes it? We're getting there.
  8. Sigh indeed. I should have went to bed. Located this stop screw. It does look like someone has been at it as I can see thread lock or something over it. this looks promising. Appreciate you saying that!
  9. Its after midnight and I'm still in the garage. I put some tape over what I believe is the IAC intake port. So, if the butterfly valve was completely closed, the car shouldn't start? Well, the car did start and although it started at about 700rpm and settled there, it eventually crept back up to about 900/1000rpm.
  10. Yes it is fine, I have attached a picture. No, it has never idled correctly as long as ive owned it. I have attached a picture where I spread some Rodico over the bottom of the butterfly valve to make sure no air was coming in and still 1000rpm. Im sorry to all if this thread is getting tedious.
  11. It appears closed and im able to stall the engine by blocking air off here. Still idles at 1000rpm. Search continues.
  12. This will be tonight's project. Thanks for the reply, Dave. I've already cleaned as much of the TB as I could without taking it apart, including the butterfly. My first try at fixing this was to clean out the IAC channel and all surrounding ports with carb cleaner. The IAC o ring and MAF gasket are both present.
  13. Thanks for the reply, padgett. I took the MAF sensor off to expose the butterfly valve and it appeared closed while idling. Since I am stumped and will try anything at this point, I'm going to check again. Thanks again
  14. IAC passes testing on chart C-2 above. Changed connectors on TPS and IAC, have lights on all circuits. Still idles at 1000/1100rpm. IAC 0 counts at idle so the ECM knows the idle is too high! I am baffled and back to square one.
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