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About Andrewb88

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  • Birthday 02/24/1954
  1. Dave, That was the cost of the plug and the freight. Andy
  2. I like to consider myself very handy when it comes to fixing things. I've done brake replacement, exhaust replacements and rebuilt several engines in my day car and backhoe but when it comes to tracing electronic problems that where my weak area is. I had lost my power brakes and did not want to go to a dealer and pull my pants down. So I turned to the acca Buick forum and I can thank everyone enough that helped me. It turned out I had a faulty pressure switch and pig tail. I changed them both and now things are back to normal. Special thanks to Barney Eaton, Dashmaster, padgett, Lots of thnks to Ronnie, Mc_Reatta and Daves89 Keep up the good work guys, very much appreciated Junior Member Andrew <label for="rb_iconid_6"></label>
  3. Dave, Thanks for the offer. I started to investigate what kind of plug and where to buy as soon as I discovered it was the plug. I went to Aut Zone, Advanced Auto parts and Bennets auto supply. I even looked through their pig tail catalogue and could not find it. I went on line and googled AC Delco pig tails and found what looked exactly like my pressure switch plug. When I foung the part number then I googled the part number and found the cheapest at Amazon for $60 OUCH ! but I needed it For those who like to know the part numbers it's ACD PT1489 and GM # 12117277. Thanks for the offer, I received the plug and installed it and now I have power brakes. Thanks to All.
  4. An aftermarket pigtial can be purchased as a replacement part for an 1988 car? Thanks Andy
  5. I've been chasing my brake problem for weeks. After replacing two pressure switches withoout sucess I find when I move the pressure switch plug aroung the motor pump comes on but won't stay on, it's intermitten as I move the plug. I either have a bad wire or defective connection at the terminal. Are these available as replacement parts ? Does anyone have a good used one for sale I could purchase ? :confused: I have another thread posted under brake problems. Thanks Andy
  6. I received my spare pressure swith from a donor car in the mail and put it in. It does not start the motor to increase the pressure. I assumed it was sitting too long and may be siezed up so I bought a new one from the Reatta store. I Just put that one in and the motor still does not start. New Brake relay, and when I jump the red/grey wire to the black the pump starts. Does anyone have any ideas ? Thanks Andy
  7. Mc_Reatta, I tried to break loose the pressure switch as mounted on the MC. I applied lots of pressure, I wasn't comfortable as I could not get it to break loose. I removed one of the mounting bolts from the rubber shock and also used a cresent wrench to hold it in place whild I used another cresent wrench to remove the pressure switch. I was able to get it broken loose applying opposite force. All I need to do is wait for the replacement to come in the mail as I have an entire assembly from a parts car in R.I. I'm glad I don't have to blead out any air. Thanks for your help, I really apprreciate it. Andy
  8. Mc_Reatta, Thanks for the info. I will need to borrow a cresent wrench, I don't have one this big. I tried to use the rod and there is not enough leverage. Is it safe to apply the extra oomph with the unit assembled to the mastercylinder or should I remove the assembly and put it in a vice ? Thanks Andy
  9. Dear Mc_Reatta, Thank you. I just confirmed if I ground the gray/red wire the motor does come on. This is what Ronnie was telling me but I read the procedue incorectly, my fault. I ran a jumper wire from the gray/red to the black as described by Ronnie and the motor came on. Thanks for the tip for the thin wall socket set at HF. when I change the pressure swithch will I have to bleed the system at all 4 wheels or will it purge it's self as it pumps back into the reservoir ? Thank you very much . Andy
  10. Ronnie, Thanks for your help. I just confirmed with the volt meter I have 11 volts at the grey/ red wire. It looks like the pressure swith is the culprit. Any idea wher to purchase the special tool to remove this and the cost ? Thanks Andy
  11. Just to make sure I was powering the correct side I inserted probes into the pressure switch plug where the black and grey/ red wire are and still no response from the motor.
  12. Jumper wires completed, I connected it to the pins on the pressure switch for the black and grey/red wire. I turned the key on and put the wire ends, one on the hot side of the alternator and the other on the ground. The pump did not start. I took the relay from my fuel pump and put it on the brake relay connection and have the same results.
  13. Here is the latest, I bought some wire connectors to power the motor. The motor runs with power. I checked the motor plug with my test light and the light does not go on. I bought a cheap volt meter at Harbor Freight, connected it to the battery, it shows 12V. I put the meter on the motor plug no reading other than zero. I checked the relay, Key on, red and brown has power. I connected my test light to the power on the altenator with the allagitor clip, I grounded the other end of the test light on the engine block ground, the light comes on. I test the pink w/ black and the gray w/ red wire and can't get the light to come on. The amber and bed brake lights come on withthe key on for a short period of time. I noticed the realys are dripping a black tar, I unpluged the two break relays and the black tar is on the conncetors, I'm not sure if this is a dielectric material or it may be the sealer under the plug used for weather proofing the relay plug melting out. I bought some contact cleaner cleaned them off and retested the wires at the relay. I'm using the ice pick end of the light tester coming from the botton of the plug to pick up the power and grounds. I did go to to download the Teves manual 38 pgs. but I did not see Page or section 5E or chart D-1. I'm still searching all these sites to learn more about this break system. Looks complicated when it's the firs time seeing it.
  14. Ronnie, Thank you. I just put power to the pink wire with the black stripe. My resources are limited so I used my light tester to pierce the wire with the pointed end with a wire on the aligator clamp with the other end of the wire tighted under my alternator hot wire. How can I check if the black wire has a good ground ? I have already changed the relay and checked the fuse. The relay is the one in the middle on the fire wall correct ? That's the information I got from one of the reatta web sites. Andy
  15. Just tested the plug, I don't have a meter but have a light tester, connect to the battery the light comes on. Plug the tester in to the 2 wire connection at the front of the motor and the light does not come on. This plug has a pink wire with a black stripe and a black wire. Is ther supposed to be power full time going to the motor ? The key was in the ON Position.