RansomEli

I hear Craftsman products have really gone into the dumpster nowadays. The quality is nowhere near what it used to be.

Hey guys, Need to do some woodwork and want to buy a bandsaw. I see models going from $150 to $2500. I'd like to stay under $300. Can you recommend a model to buy? How do Harbor Freight, Craftsman, Ryobi and Skil compare? Thanks in advance.

What price are you asking for the car? Where is the car located?

Check out the Franklin Forum further down. The buy/sell section might help. Mikewest has a listing there selling a wide variety of parts.

Please read the forum rules. I do not want to PM or email you for basic information. How much are you asking? Where is the Bugatti located?

You can pay anywhere between $14-25K for a 1929 sedan/coupe in good running condition. The higher end of the price range is for nicely restored cars. Of course, this does not cover open or special-bodied models. Engine condition is all important. Ask who did the engine work. There are a few names out there in Franklin-land that are worth paying extra if you know they worked on the car. Ask other Franklin members & they'll be glad to share. I bought my '29 sedan mainly because of the mechanic who worked on the engine (a Franklin master). I called him and he said, "That's a good car." He told me all about the history of the car going back to the 1960's. That was good enough for me.

For a first Franklin, I recommend a 1929 model 135. Parts are readily available, hydraulic brakes and a nice engine. If you can, get wire wheels and side mounts. Very nice driving cars at a reasonable price. And you can work on them yourself.

Sorry to intrude on this thread, but I am looking for a set of wheels. kbeach, would you please send me Wheel Guy contact info, too? Thanks.

I would pick a '71 Cadillac color that I liked and then bite the bullet - have the whole car resprayed, including door jambs, under the hood, etc. In the long run, you would feel better and the car would be easier to sell. Don't know if you would recover the cost of paint. That depends on the quality of the paint job.

Have your battery checked out via a load test. A ten-year old battery would be my first suspect.

Our family had 2 AMCs/Ramblers with the 232 6 cylinder - a 1966 and 1970. We never had to re-torque the heads

My 1930 Timken Tapered Roller Bearings catalog lists the following numbers for 1930 Franklin Models 145-147 Front Wheel Inner: Cone - 2581 Cup - 2523 Outer: Cone - 1779 Cup - 1729 Rear Wheel Inner: Cone - 347 Cup - 332 Outer: Cone - 347 Cup - 332

A very interesting collection of photos. Thanks!

Edgar, I would be very interested in some pictures and procedure of your fender-making tool. I need to make several fenders and your method may save my day. Please send pics to jamesrunde@yahoo.com. Thanks.

Need some advice on tightening down ball joints and tie rod ends. Most of the time you torque the nut down, insert the cotter pin and then bend the pin around the castle nut so it won't work loose. Most of the time. I'm working on a car where my replacement ball joint nut tightens down below the cotter pin hole. Question #1: Do I dare place a flat washer under the nut so that it aligns with the cotter pin hole? #2: Do I just bend the cotter pin into the castle nut as best as possible? Thanks.

Thanks for sharing this valuable information. My 9B touring has been running great for years, but if I ever need to work on it, I'll have the advantage of knowing what to look out for.

I've had several rebuilt for my 1/2 ton Suburban. We used it to tow a 16 ft enclosed trailer. Watch out for those who try to sell you a heavy duty racing transmission. Sure, it's beefy, but not what you want. First upgrade is a shift kit. It holds you in the lower gear a little longer and then shifts harder. You want that for towing. Next, upgrade your parts. We upgraded to Corvette parts because the mechanic said they were more heavy duty than a std Chevy. That's where we stopped. Added less than $500 to the rebuild cost. The tranny served us well. You can spend gobs more $$$ in upgrades. I stayed away from Summit because they are drag racing oriented.

Mike, I need several parts for my 1929 135 sedan: master cylinder, some spare jugs and some miscellaneous stuff. I will give you a call after the Trek. I'm not there (sigh).

As a veteran traveler of the I-10 between Austin and San Diego/Los Angeles, I can tell you the weather can get hot & the road can get steep. If there was any doubt about my car's condition I would just replace the water pump, thermostat and radiator, preferably with the desert/towing version. Never had a problem, except for the one time I ignored my own advice and got stuck with an overheating radiator in Van Horn, Texas. There are so many wonderful things to see and do between Phoenix and Austin. Arizona: Seligman,Tombstone, Bisbee, the Franklin museum in Tucson, Wilcox. New Mexico: the area around Silver City, Deming (El Mirador has the best NewMex food), Carlsbad caverns, Mesilla & Las Cruces. Texas: Van Horn, Ft. Stockton, Fort Davis, Junction (stop for BBQ) The road is long and empty but very interesting. I find myself turning off the radio and just driving. I need a road trip.

Don't kick yourself that much. You caught the error before serious money and time were wasted. We've all made stupid mistakes - it's a part about working on cars. I made the same painting mistake twice on my Camaro hood. Have to sand down the hood and paint it a third time.

If you get a chance, I'd like to see a picture of your motor mounts. Looks like you did some nice work on adjusting the engine height. With the 1930 engine and a light speedster body, you are going to have a fast car.

Google Maps is what I use when mapping out a route for my 1921 Franklin. Set options to avoid highways and tolls. then, look at the route in Satellite mode. You'll get a bird's eye view of the route and be able to see what the road actually looks like, surrounding buildings and any alternative routes. I use Google Maps all the time. Found some wonderful Texas back roads that make you feel like you belong there.

Yours is a generous offer, but I'm looking for a running engine. Thanks.

I am piecing together a wooden-framed Franklin (circa 1922) from a bunch of parts and need running gear. Not picky on authenticity, so I think any engine from Series 10 through 12 would do, including a Series 13 Model 130. Does anyone have a running engine/transmission? Any leads would be appreciated. If so, how much should I expect to pay? Thanks. This is a project I have been working on for quite a while and it's taking shape.

I'm looking for a 1960's-'70s complete Toyota drive train. Need everything from the radiator to the rear end. Will consider a complete car but just need the running gear. Looking for a 4 cylinder rear wheel drive with manual transmission. Something like a 1972 Corolla would be wonderful. Does anybody out there have any leads? Thanks.