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BillDC

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About BillDC

  • Birthday 06/29/1951

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  1. Posted for a friend, if you have any info his email is below.. Thanks, Bill The gas tank in my car rotted out and i took it out and repaired. However, in the process of removing it, the tube with the fuel line and the gauge on it had the cap break off. See the photo. Do you have access to a gas gauge, or know how to attach it with only 2 or 3 threads left on it? your help is appreciated. Jack Stang baumholder268@yahoo.com
  2. Semi-period picture from one of Dad's high school road trips in his 1919 9B. This is the same car my brother Jim drove on his 9,000+ mile road trip in 2018.
  3. I could create a 'Period Photos' section on the club website if folks could send me enough images of interest. Problem with FB is that the images are kind of a one time viewing option as they roll down and out of sight in relatively short time. The club website would be easier to browse. If you have a caption or story, even better. Send photos to the Gmail address: Rivendellracing or message me from this forum. Cheers, Bill Eby
  4. BillDC

    Gas tank

    There is a fellow here in Virginia who I believe has made tanks for other Franklins. Used to work ar White Post. His name is Thetan Ogle, phone 540-three zero three-7377. Bill
  5. Hi All, In our continuing efforts to keep the club web site as helpful as possible, it now contains the ability to search the ACN's and FSS's by article or topic. This is now available on the Members Only page in the Publications box at the top. Big thanks to Roy Canfield who updated the Index in a way that made it easy to use as the basis of a search engine, and his index is still available on the web as an additional excellent resource. Search on a topic, article name, author, person, or whatever. The search will list the article and clicking on the link will take you to the issue, and in many cases to the page in that issue. There are many FSS's that are not on the web, so not every hit will be a link, but the search result will give you the issue and page for a physical lookup. I hope you all like this new feature. Bill Eby
  6. Hi, Does anyone know a source for BUDA engine bearings, and/or out of production Federal Mogul Bearings. I'm looking for part number 8880 SB (code on the back of mine are 8880 SB FW DW STD. My clearances look OK, and the journals OK, but the bearings are pretty torn up, so I'd like to replace them. Thanks, Bill Eby 202-four-one-five-3037
  7. Hi All, The service vendors, merchandise vendors, parts vendors and general references on the Franklin Club web site (other than the specific ads posted by members) have not been updated or reviewed for quite a while. These are on the FORSALE tab under parts, services & vendors, and merchandise, as well as on the TECH tab. Does anyone have any suggestions of any vendors that we are missing and should be put up on the web to help us all out, or vendors that are listed that are no longer relevant? Let me know and we will update the website to keep it up to date for our members and others looking for help. Cheers, Bill Eby
  8. Hi, Does anyone have a source or go-to guy for spring pivot bolts (series 12B)? Do you have to have new ones made, is there some old stock, or can a machine shop build up worn bolts to original diameters? I am working on ending front end wabble, so I put a big herken wrench on all four joints on the front springs at the pivot points and got a little movement on one pivot. I pulled the bolt and it is out of round by approximately .020. Is that enough to create wabble? I suspect that that particular bold was not tight, due to the fact that I could tap it back and forth before taking off the castle nut. Should I just put it back together and make sure the nut is tight(er)? It was well lubricated, and the grease passages seem to be clear. Appreciate any thoughts.... Cheers, Bill
  9. Hi. I am posting this ad for Dean Diefenderfer. He is looking for 2 window regulator lift channels for his 1925 series 11A . Also, the windshield seal that mounts into a groove on the body around the windshield frame . Email Dean at dcdiefenderfer@aol.com if you can help or provide a lead. Thanks, Bill
  10. Folks, The following was set to the FSS editor. Thought I would put it up here to get some eyes on it before his ad appears in the FSS. Let me know if you can help and I will forward you Victor's email address. Bill Eby The motor of my 1925 11A sedan has suffered a catastrophic failure which leaves me needing a replacement cylinder block (crankcase). Would you kindly let me know if it possible for me to place a quuarter page advert in the next issue of FSS in the hope that I might find someone who has a block that might be for sale. I am, of course, happy to pay the appropriate fee. Best Regards Victor Holliday ENGLAND
  11. Teresa's email is TERESA CARVER <carvertd@gmail.com>
  12. I know this is late info, but the club received this note and so far there haven't been any takers. If you are interested, contact Carver below: Subject: Re: seeking information on a potential 1913-18 Franklin sedan Dear Mr. Harrison, My name is Teresa Carver. I am Area Coordinator of Antique Cars for the Midwest Old Settlers and Threshers Organization in Mt. Pleasant, Iowa. I have a group who is wishing to recreate a period photo that was part of their 50th anniversary celebration, and they have requested our assistance. However, I do not have a lead on the forefront auto of the picture, which we believe is a Franklin sedan from somewhere around 1915 (as the picture is dated 1919) What they believe they want to do is to actually create a video that begins with this photo and then pans into a real live scene staged like the photo to begin the introduction into the 150th anniversary celebration. I have no problem with the 4 background autos as I believe I can pass off model T tourings for those and I have plenty of access within my local exhibitors. The Franklin however is my problem at this point. Do you possibly know of anyone near who might be willing to help out the ladies PEO organization with their grand project? We will be filming this on the Old Threshers grounds sometime in July if we can get a car nailed down. I don't think I can pass off a 1912 Overland as a Franklin even with laying a Franklin hood over the top of it... Any assistance you might provide will be greatly appreciated.
  13. Hey Matt, Can't offer any advice on your question, I am sure somebody will have the answer for you soon. Just wanted to say I look forward to seeing the progress, and great to hear that things are coming together. Have fun. Bill Eby
  14. Hi Jim, The Franklin web site has the following info. QUESTION: HYD BRAKE TUBING Hi: After reading the latest FSS, I am more confused than ever about replacing Franklin brake lines. I replaced mine in the 12B last year with Cunifer brake line material. I flared everything with single flares just like the original copper. I had no problems at all making the flares, and there have been no problems at all with the braking system. Soon after finishing that project, I read the article in Skinned Knuckles about installing Cunifer brake lines. The article said the flares should not be single fares, but should be double flares. I immediately becamed concerned, but not quite enough to do the job over. It seemed like I had done a job that was a little better than what the car had for the first 80 years. The recent FSS article says never use double flares with the original Franklin fittings. So, that makes me feel better about the job on my car. However, my Father wants me to install new brake lines and hoses in his 145. What should I do? Single flares? Doubles? David P.S. The FSS article called the Franklin a low pressure brake system. Could you clarify that? ANSWER: HYD BRAKE TUBING David, I haven't read the Skinned Knuckles artical you mentioned, but since they don't do as much coverage of Franklin era cars, I suspect they may be refering to later brake systems where double flairs are more common. The double flair not only gives more crush, but it is meant for higher pressure systems than a Franklin is. Double flaired type fittings have the nessassary longer thread engagement needed to give enough room within the tightened fitting for the folded over flair and still have enough threads caught to give maximum strength without resorting to over-tightening. For all Franklins using the original style 'tapered flair nuts', stick with a single flair as you've done already. Say hi to your folks for me. Paul Fitz. …………….. Hope this helps. Bill Eby PS, Are you a member of the club? If not I urge you to join up, lots more good info is available.
  15. Here's some info from Dad Bill Eby : In the early 1940's the only tires I could buy for my 9B was well worn used tires from auto salvage yards. I got lots of practice changing tires on snap ring type rims. In this case practice does not make perfect. But I have one suggestion in addition to what is already said. Buy yourself a tool that keeps the valve stem in control. It is essentially a short length of flexible metal wire with a cap on one end that you poke through the rim stem hole and screw it fast to the end of the valve stem before completely sliding the tire onto the rim. The other end has something on it that can not escape through the hole. In the case of my current tool it is a couple of valve stem tools. After the tire is completely on the rim the valve stem is pulled into place by pulling the tool. It simplifies the retreival of the valve stem out of the tire and getting it seated in the hole. The last tool I bought was about five years ago at an auto parts store. See attached photo. Wendell
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