gungeey

I wondered why a 65 would be equipped with 64 vinyl seats

Your vacuum reading suggests retarded timing which could cause your backfire. Is it a stock camshaft? What's your timing set to?

You are in exact location where I would be looking for sheetmetal. If you want a nice straight one with big gaping rust holes let me know 😆 Tim at www.rivicentral.com in CA will give you an honest assessment regarding condition of parts. Also, www.rivparts.com That's Larry but he may not have what you're looking for right now. Also, Gene G. But he is in Pennsylvania.

I hear the flashers at MardiGras in 1964 were very inappropriate.

It is in the shop manual. The manual says to adjust to state specs.

Two things I do when getting a "new to me" 63/4/5: Go through the brakes and disconnect the harness for the center console. An old timer named Dick Sweeney taught me 20 or so years ago that it has been the source of fire. I doubt circumstances have changed for the better in that time. The wire sheathing shrinks, especially in the west coast cars where hotter climate, the ends fray from repeated disassembly during repairs. The dried up cardboard heater duct is right in there alongside a set of 60 YO cigar lighters. Perfect storm. Since then I have had personal knowledge of a total loss with a very nice 63 due to fire. So, it's really not so important to me that I see what gear I'm in with a three speed automatic. Steve 9236

You dont happen to have a picture of the timing cover when you had the water pump off? The thermosta might open but do you can you see turbulation in the radiator with the cap off?

Philip you say the water pump is new did you put it in? Your engine timing cover could be corroded behind the pump vanes to the point of needing replacement. It's not uncommon. Start the car with engine cold and radiator cap removed. As engine reches operating temp the thermostat should open, starting a lot of visible coolant movement. With that said, if you were my next door neighbor in France my gut would check ignition timing before anything else.

Had to send him one back

Count me as #2

parts123.com Rebuild kits. Not hard to do.

I wanted to put amp up on trunk shelf but was too tight. So in keeping with a hidden system (plus I have lots of crap in the trunk):

Just sent you his info through this site's email

most of the stuff is fairly generic ( trunk, seal between front and rear windows, door weatherstrip). Soff-seal is a good name. AA1 is good. Some people say the roof rail weatherstripping is incorrect but seems to work for me. The one top dollar part that you cant get around is the vent window seal. Go with Steele Rubber for that. The window felts to the best of my knowledge are not reproduced correctly. Close, but no bend for the rear interior swipes. PS: not an easy job in a finished car

Gene is out of PA

Sounds about right. 8" subs are nice right bass. Kickers =good stuff I have one 8in sub in small sealed enclosure. That's plenty for me. Steve

Cut a couple 10-32 brass machine screws down to size ( a shy 1/2") and drive em in there. The brass won't hurt the pot metal. Notice: I actually DO the crap I say to do 😆

If the cables were corroded I would think the mirror would be stuck in place, not flopping around. I find them with the cables in the wrong slots of the know but that makes them tense up, too. They were originally color coded to prevent a mix up. Your cables look quite a bit more banged up than average. I wouldn't want to play with them too much. I'd end up scratching the inside or the outside of the car. My thought wouild be to get a badly pitted mirror (CHEAP) and gut it out to use on my good chrome bezel.

What do you have in the back seat? 2 woofers?

I've done this with the plastic vents still in place but not a 6X9 this is a 5.25". If you take out the factory vents you would of course have more room...the soundstage is great but I love the vents 😄

Yes defroster works (Though I don't know that other than heat will ever be needed) Steel wool is stuffed down the half I mauled 😇 The head unit is a Pre Amp only. It sends a signal to amplifiers in the trunk. The trunk also has a 6 CD Player. All is hidden for stealth effect. How a picture of your radio with AUX, Bob?

Feel free to add your own. If there's interest we can get into amplifier CD Changer and head unit placement

I hollowed out the original radio so there would be enough depth for the woofer., also cut back the defroster duct for clearance. Had to keep that B U I C K button set up 😆. So this system has front and rear channels as opposed to traditional L & R. Rear Speakers.. same as front.. these are vintage Polk dB series 5.25" Woofer and 1" silk and titanium tweeter with adjustable crossover network.

Starting a thread regarding the title: Aftermarket Stereo Install. This thread is for all who care to join in so others can have easy access to sound related info. From mild to wild, 1st Gen Rivieras have limitations on speaker placement. Myself, a stock looking interior is preferred. Stealth is the goal for me. Front speaker.. stock location

Nice! So where does the spare tire go? I will start a new thread for *Aftermarket Stereo Installs*. Why don't you repeat your last post there so others can research in the future. Steve