nearchoclatetown

That sounds encourageing. Turn it over lots of times to circulate oil. I think I would change it even before it runs, maybe something extra light. Especially , depending how much penetrating oil you put in each cylinder. CAn you take an oil line off at the filter to make sure of good flow?

I rarely use first gear, so that cuts down on 1/2 the problem. I short shift to third as soon as I can, slowly not double. You can just about start out in third gear on the flat in a DB.

No gasket or oring. But McMaster-Carr does sell new ones if it can't be rehoned like Jan said.

Does a '39 have lugnuts or lugbolts? If it has bolts, wack 'em with a hammer straight in. If you did it to nuts it would ruin the threads, but won't hurt bolts. That's how VW guys loosen frozen brakes.

Just a guess, but is it positive or negative ground?

What's the compression like and timing is important?

Chris, I would pick one and go with it. Remember, all right, write down which one you used and see how long they last. I've made a few soft drill rod king pins and bronze bushings for diferant projects. With the few miles and type of driving I doubt you will have any problem with whatever you choose. Keep them lubriacted. I've found the steel pins usually wear faster then the bronze bushings, VW used king pins until '65. I do agree with not useing sintered bronze because of the shock may break them. McMaster-Carr would be my first choice. Just an opinion.

By holding in the clutch pedal and putting the trans in second or third gear you will have lots of SOFT leverage rocking by hand. The tractor doesn't know when to quit, could break something. When the disc comes free and the engine runs, the clutch will still be grabby until the clutch plate and flywheel get shined up. Looks like a pretty nice car from the pics, the paint will probably clean up. Seems to have the same poor aim at the garage opening every other old car had. Dryer sheets are supposed to help with the mouse smell.

BE patient. Let the MM oil work a few days and don't force the engine to turn over. The clutch disc may be rusted to the flywheel, not a big deal. WHile the engine is still stuck prop the pedal in and put the trans in gear. Gentally rock the car by hand front and back, might free it up. Fix the electric one wire at a time, checking with a test light or ohm meter.

'37, it's too deep for a DB, inside radius is too big at the top of the core. Looks more like a Whippet. Ask Clark for a pic of the 999 shell.

Dave Berg, the SWEEP idea is excellant. There are more rules that need swept, in my opinion. One thing I have not understood is the "if you can't see it you can't deduct points idea.Everyone knows ALL cars have headlights but because of hideaway headlights some cars get a free pass. At judgeing school I was told the AACA can't require owners to expose their headlights. Why not? If you are useing a '63-'67 Corvette for example, they all get the same benifit. But switch classes to say a Camaro RS, or Pontiac Grand Prix, not all cars in the class have the same "exposure". All of these headlights CAN be exposed before the engine is shut off when the car is parked for judgeing. The discussion could include antenaes, batteries in pickups, etc, etc. Thanks for your time and explanations.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 1937hd45</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Anyone else catch the start of the Boyd Coddington/Reese's/ELVIS/'57 Caddy give-a-way project on the TLC channel last night? Will it get any turntable time up on the hill? </div></div>'37, just make sure you buy what the reason for the treason is.

Do you think there will be a class for historically significant Funk conversions?

Make sure you wrap a long piece of mechanic's wire through a link before you take out the master link. You'd be surprised how nervous you get trying to fish out the chain when it falls into the engine.

HAl. most people I talk to say their favorite classes are trucks and race cars. Neither fits the "as delivered" form.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lister</div><div class="ubbcode-body">its a Series 54 26.33 HP. </div></div>What is the head for?

Like they say, A picture is worth a bunch of words.

Joe, bring the new bride. The Soda Jerk has multi-culteral cooking, both baklava and shoo fly pie.

Yes. About 300-500 cars of ALL types attend a monthly cruise-in.

I think you are getting camber and toe in mixed up. My DB manual calls for 2 1/16 camber on some models. My book actually doesn't spell out toe in, but the ROT has always been 1/16 to 1/ 8measured at the center of the height of the tire front and back.

I'll open the bid at $100.

The engine is a blueish-green color. Look through the gallery on DBC site. I hope there is one shown in the correct color. I believe Romar has it in spray cans, maybe Myers and Brister too.

Cool video, thanks. The Caddy didn't fair to well with the back door flying open.

Best thing she's mine?? It looks to me like you have at least 2 other interested partys involved. You should be able to clean the ice cream off the new leather.