BamaWildcat

While doing the Google thing today I stumbled onto some photos of the former Fields Buick, Inc. building being torn down in Hyattsville, MD. It was sold to Lustine in 1988 and disbanded shortly after. I've got a whole write up on my website about the dealership, but I just wanted to recap here for those going down memory lane. I'll start with the photos I have that show the difference between the past and last year: </p> <a href="http://www.1964buick.com/fields/front%20large.jpg"> </a> </p> South elevation: </font></p> North elevation: </p> Please click below to be taken to the pictures taken February 12, 2007: (I can't post the pictures directly as they aren't mine) </p>

The ashtrays in the doors were chrome plated, the dash ashtray is just natural.

Ever notice how many plain-jane 50s and 60s cars came with LEATHER? I've e-mailed a few sellers to let them know just because it is shiny doesn't automatically mean it is leather... hello vinyl!

One more thing: Old rubber hoses may be collapsing under the pressure of suction stopping the flow.

Unless it is a trick question I would gather it is locked away in a climate controlled garage or was wrecked and scrapped.

http://forums.aaca.org/showflat.php?Cat=...ge=0#Post458917

Flush it. If you have owned the car since day one, a flush every 30,000 is fine. If however the car has more than 30k on the clock I would recommend to a drain and fill only. On higher mileage transmissions, the flush will literally take out all the dirt and varnish that was holding the transmission together.

From http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.php?t=102694: "Here is what I did that may or may not be helpful: I went to Advance Auto and bought a Cardone 1967 dual brake master cylinder. I took the crapshoot and went with the one "With Power Brakes With Drum Brakes With Deep Piston Hole With Bendix Brake Booster". It is part number 10-1328. I brought it home and it mounted up perfectly. It looks like it will work with the exception (big exception), that once I mounted it up to my 64 booster, the bar that holds the lid on will not open up. It hits on a dimple of the booster. It seems that the only solution that would be bulletproof would be to buy a '67 booster and '67 master cylinder."

GMPARTSMAN, I did some extensive research on this issue and it is peppered on this BB and v8buick.com. In a nutshell, a 1967 dual master would fit on that booster BUT the metal clamp that holds down the lid will not actuate. It appears the only way to make it work is to get a 1967 booster, and a 1967 Master Cylinder. Once that is done, the only other hurtle is plumbing. As it is now the three brake lines go to a block on the frame, and then up to the MC as one tube. With the new setup, you'll need to take the rear brakes off off one port of the junction block, put a plug in, and run a line to the new MC, and then union the back brake line to the MC. The MC connections are much bigger than the factory brakes lines and two different sizes, so you will also need adapters.

Any good radiator shop can re-core it.

Try this guy http://thepartguy.com/ac-valvesALL.htm

Dave, You need a Matt Harwood or Barry Wolk style website to detail all this. You are a great craftsman.

So GM shouldn't do a thing because they weren't involved with the sale, but for those 22 months I took my brand new GM in 24 times needing warranty work they kept saying it was a GM problem, and not a dealership problem since they didn't make the car? It is just an interesting point of view seeing how either party, the manufacturer or the dealer, will point the finger wherever it will save the most them the most money.

My Wildcat needs restoration. I have a great story. Look at www.1964buick.com

I've got crash pictures at my website at www.1964buick.com. Here they are: <p align="center"><span style="font-weight: bold"><font face="Verdana" size="6">Wrecks and Fires</font></span> <p align="center"><font face="Verdana" size="2">A collection of Buick mishaps</font> <p align="center"><font size="2" face="Verdana">1963 LeSabre </font></p> <p align="center"><font face="Verdana" size="2">1964 Electra Convertible </font></p> <p align="center"><font face="Verdana" size="2">1964 Wildcat Convertible; rear-ended another vehicle </font></p> <p align="center"> <font face="Verdana" size="2">1964 Wildcat; was rear-ended, Rockland County, NY </font></p> <p align="center"> <font face="Verdana" size="2"> </font></p> <p align="center"> <font face="Verdana" size="2">1964 Buick Wildcat Sedan; Driver side damage </font></p> <p align="center"> <font face="Verdana" size="2"> </font></p> <p align="center"> <font face="Verdana" size="2">1964 Buick LeSabre; in Canada </font></p> <p align="center"> <font face="Verdana" size="2"> </font></p> <p align="center"> <font face="Verdana" size="2">1964 Buick Wildcat; front bumper damage, Atlanta, GA </font></p> <p align="center"> <font face="Verdana" size="2">1964 Buick LeSabre; Washington State, fire damage. Believe electric heater caught seat on fire. </font></p> <p align="center"> <font face="Verdana" size="2"> </font></p> <p align="center"> <font face="Verdana" size="2"> </font></p> <p align="center"><font face="Verdana" size="2">1963 Wildcat 2 door; South Dakota, side damage </font></p> <p align="center"><font face="Verdana" size="2">1964 Electra, side damage </font></p> <p align="center"><font face="Verdana" size="2"> </font></p> <p align="center"><font face="Verdana" size="2">1964 LeSabre Sedan; Illinois, front passenger side damage </font></p> <p align="center"><font face="Verdana" size="2"> </font></p> <p align="center"><font face="Verdana" size="2"> </font></p> </body> </html>

On full-size 1964 Buicks, it is very common for the switch boot to disintegrate over time allowing water and dirt into the courtesy light switch. Once this happens, the dome and courtesy light will come on intermittently when the door is opened and is an annoyance. There are a few ways to correct the problem. The one I will show off in this post I did today, which was modifying an aftermarket switch that looks very close to the Buick switch to work. The best part is a pair of the switches shipped only costs $10, whereas to get your switches rebuilt, it is nearly a $70 ordeal. <p align="center"> <font size="1" face="Verdana">Non-functioning factory switch with bad switch boot</font></p> <p align="center"> Looking through eBay, the switch I found that had the closest external look to a GM switch was this Scott Drake C3AZ-13713-A. Nobody throw a fit, but these are made to fit 65-66 Mustangs. The best part? The price. If you only need driver quality, here is a solution for $10, if you have basic soldering skills. <p align="center"> This is the backside of the Scott Drake switch. As you will notice, it has round female connectors instead of female spade connectors. Also, the switch retaining fingers do not connect the switch to ground, like the Buick switches do. Why is this a good thing? Because now the switch can be wired to a good, solid ground, instead of a simple body to switch press-fit. <p align="center"> Here is the procedure: Acquire two female spade connectors and one ring connector from your parts bin, Home Depot, Radio Shack, etc. Solder the ring connector to a 7 inch piece of at least #14 wire for your ground connection. Push the other end of the wire into one of the round connectors on the door switch, and crimp down on the connectors with pliers. Now, solder the wire to the female terminal. Be careful here as too long of a soldering job will melt the switch. Now position two female spade connectors back to back in the other connector. Crimp the connector around them, then carefully solder them to the connector. It may take two passes to alleviate heat to be able to get a great connection for each terminal. <p align="center"> Snap the switch in the factory hole. Even though it is longer than the factory switch, it will not come in contact with anything. Connect the factory dome light and courtesy light spade connector into the spade connectors. Remove the closest vent screw, place the ring terminal behind it after cleaning it, and torque the screw down tight enough to hold the ring terminal tightly to the screw head, as the vent is plastic and does not conduct. <p align="center"> Finished product. The O.D. of the Scott Drake switches are a little less than the Buick switches, but I would bet if a factory switch boot was installed, no one would notice. I'd love any questions or comments.

I thought I took detailed notes but I didn't. Anyone know which connector the upper and lower transmission cooler lines connect to on the radiator? For instance, does the upper port on the trans connect to the driver's side port? Car is '64 Cat.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks for all the info. Actually, it's not an old car I'm talking about -- it is a 1997 Toyota Tacoma. My other cars have been older Camaros and Chevys. I've used 20-50 regular oil on these GM V8s and have driven over 250,000 miles on each car. I've got a 1986 Camry with 500,000 miles that loves 20-50. With the 1998 Tacoma, I know the engine won't like such a heavy oil. I'm switching to a lighter 10-40, but am open to advice. Maybe I'll keep a 10-30 synthetic in the truck. The general consensus seems that should be the way I go. By the way, my 1921 Franklin uses Mobil synthetic (10-40). I will never switch to regular oil on that car. </div></div> You sure it uses synthetics? I've got a 2000 Tacoma and factory fill is dino oil, 5W-30.

Well, outside of what has already been shown, NO work has been done on this car since June. After conversations and empty promises that led nowhere about my car, I have lined up another person to fix my car. Made a nice table for former bodyman, huh?

E-mail KD Tools and ask: http://www.kd-tools.com/contacts.htm

I loved it too. I bet my wife buys it before me. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

Don't ask me how I learned the unfused lesson. This one was in regards to an I/P circuit in my Wildcat. After having to replace the I/P circuit board, there is now an inline fuse in circuit.

Phillips screw.

They show up on eBay from time to time.

Factory.