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BamaWildcat

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  1. Buick did use all 3 speeds in drive. Low position was either dropping it from 3 to 2 if you were at speed, or 2 to 1 if you were going slow.
  2. I always leave mine attached to the jack.
  3. Since you purchased a motor to get working, you may already be an expert at this, but I have a video of putting new brushes in my motor that may be mildly helpful: https://1964buick.com/resto_logs/engine/odds and ends.htm
  4. I just finished replacing the heater core in my 64 Wildcat with AC. I found that the Advance Auto/Carquest 399062 still fits. Some others were reporting it was too short. TI replaced the heater core, glove box liner, and added a mercury switch for the glove box light instead of the plunger switch that always hung up the door. I've attached the video I made. It is a deep dive, with the hope to help someone else that has to tackle this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0fIWUCx2G7I
  5. Inline Tube sells them on eBay through their store: https://www.ebay.com/itm/64-88-GM-Models-Windshield-Wiper-Motor-Firewall-Mounting-Grommets-Brass-Strap/200929854014
  6. 1962 full size car manifolds for $150 plus shipping from North Alabama. No cracks, weight is present, and a bit of spring as well. Valve is not present. Includes bolts.
  7. My Wildcat always was hard to start after siting so I took the plunge and put a pump on just for priming. I wanted to put this on the forum because the types of fuel pumps that a mechanic pump can pull through are not well documented. I used an Airtex E8251 and it works very well. The Airtex E8016S seems to have the same specifications as the E2851, and is listed for motor vehicles, however some say the design will not pass fuel when not engaged, like having a mechanical pump pull through it. The manufacturer's literature shows a gear like impeller to pump the fuel on the 16S, instead of the solenoid style of the one I am using. Airtex says the warranty is void if a fuel filter is not in place, so I am using a Wix 33046 before it goes to the pump. The neatest thing I belive I have done is wired it up to an accessory switch, so it is right on the dash and doesn't look out of place. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sUUJd8ECvXU
  8. My 2019 project of the year was getting my Nailhead removed and rebuild by the very own DualQuadDave. My block ended up being cracked and it had to be swapped, but it has been a great adventure getting my Wildcat back on the road! Don't know why the thumbnail isn't showing up, but here is the first drive:
  9. Afternoon Everyone, I just uploaded the entire 852 page 1964 Buick Chassis Service Manual to YouTube. It'll be on my website later on. If you view in 4K, you should be able to take easy, viewable, screenshots. https://www.youtube.com/embed/yWsUv0yZtqM
  10. I'm super proud of the fact they didn't paint the door striker.
  11. For those with 63s and 64s with A/C, I’ve found the reproduced 61-62 Impala heater valve can be used if you add a bracket. I’ve also used a Gates 28473 90 degree hose to make the bend toward the engine, but I bet normal hose would work. If you fast forward to 4:59, I go over it in this video:
  12. Bead blasted the bracket that holds the U Shaped A/C hose that goes to the STV. Found out it had a rubberized coating. Anyone know if the whole bracket was rubberized, or just the part that goes around the metal hose?
  13. Chiming in here late to the party, but my 1964 401 had the plastic tipped gear on the crank. Got the whole timing set in steel at probably AutoZone: http://www.1964buick.com/resto_logs/motor_rehab.htm
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