BamaWildcat

I am having a doozy with my front drum brakes in my Wildcat. Specificially, my front passenger side brake grabs before all the others do. I have thrown hundreds in new parts at the whole system, but it does not seem the self adjusters are right. On my rear brakes, with the drums on, I can stick a brake spoon in, and only get the wheel to turn one way, the other way is locked with the actuator arm. On the fronts, I can spin it both ways. The only way to pull the actuator arm down to the star wheel is to pull the whole shoes/hardware assembly forward, and that puts the arm into the wheel, but once I put the drum on it resets itself. With the drum on the shoes, shouldn't the front brakes auto adjuster not be able to be moves with a brake spoon just like the back unless I push the arm in from the back?

Check out http://www.buicks.net/years/65.shtml and click on "Engine Identification."

I found out yesterday that my booster is shot, but I pretty much knew that for some time. I have long wanted to switch my single reservoir master cylinder to a dual, but kept abandoning the project as I could not figure out which 1967 model year master cylinder would fit my 64 booster. Well now is the perfect oppritunity for me to get a 1967 master cylinder <span style="font-style: italic">and</span> booster. The only problem is I do not know if it will fit my car exactly, and I would rather not spend $150 at a clip for trial and error. As far as fitment, I refer specifically as to whether or not: 1) The four studs that hold the booster are in the exact same spot between model year 64-67 2) The four studs are of sufficient lenght to bolt up 3) The rod from the booster to the brake pedal will bolt up with no major modification. Could someone shed some light on this? I've tried to do a google search to see if any company had engineering drawings on the web, but could find none. Basic question is will a 67 booster fit exactly in a 64, and if so, the Delco or Bendix. Thanks. 1964 1967 Bendix>

I always jack up the front first and put jack stands under the car and lower the car down onto the stands. Doing the front first means the car does not really move when you jack up the back. I jack up the back using the rear diff. I jack up the front using any point on the frame close to the front. If you do not jack up the front first, and jack up the back first instead, the whole car will roll forward until it hits your chocks (if you put some out ). Putting the front on jackstands first eliminates this rolling.

Notice how ugly the back wheelwell is?

Have you tried running a title history search through the DMV? https://www.dmv.state.va.us/ They can usually provide you will ALL owners in the state. You usually have to sign a few paper due to the Driver's Privacy Protection Act of 1996.

Whoops, did not keep track of this post. I agree with Matt's answer: there was no splatter paint, just primer covered in the liner that turns to yuck over the years.

I think the "official" thread (with Mike and Jim's commentary) is here: http://www.bpgforums.com/showthread.php?s=f23d9177ff3ad96e098ad740b6030b17&threadid=1247

Sweet car! We need a larger picture attached For Wildcat figures, check out http://www.buicks.net. Under the 1964 Production figures page, they state Buick made 12,185 2 door Wildcats. No figures are given for the 425, but I think someone made a spreadsheet about them here or on v8buick.com.

If you do a google search for Kentucky DMV, you should be able to come up with a KY government website to request a title search based on VIN. I have traced a Wildcat I own across three owners and four states using a VIN search. Note: Under the 1996 Driver Privacy Protection Act (DPPA), even if you find out who owns the car now, you can get fined if you try to contact them. http://www.accessreports.com/statutes/DPPA1.htm

My passenger side motor mount on my Wildcat is broken. I have the replacement part and I am ready to replace the mount. How do I replace the mount without pulling the motor? I would think I can unscrew the tranny mount, and then stick a jack somewhere on the passenger side of the motor to angle the engine over for enough space to get the mount off. Also, do these bolts come out easy, or do they always break? Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

If it is an automatic, the transmission is an ST300. These are two speed transmissions, and I've read plenty of posts where people give them away for free. I've got one sitting in a garage right now that won't shift into second gear. The ST300 for the small cars has a longer tail than the big cars. You can use a small car tranny in a big car by cutting the driveshaft, but not vice-versa. Also, check out v8buick.com. You could probably scrounge up a free ST300 pretty quick over there.

Here is a well written article about switching from a Generator to an alternator: http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/AlternatorConversions.htm

You probably don't want to hear this, but mice probably got down into your ducts or enough of their nesting/feces fell down to make a sizable addition to the stink fund. Bet bet would be to pull the heater core and vacuum that stuff out. You could just live with it until the odor goes away, but if there are any fuzzy nesting materials that fell down and are touching the core, you could have a smoldering fire on your hands.

Their online catalog is at http://166.82.96.9/xframes.html

I've got a catalog from Steele Rubber that seems to have a load of stuff in it. http://www.steelerubber.com/

Rivdriver, I don't know how much your knowledge of automotive electronics is, but there should be a harness you can unplug around the seat/under the seat that sends 12 volts to the butt warmer. If you have 12 volts there, your butt warmer element has opened, and you need a new element. If you do not have 12 volts, you trace back and see if a relay is bad, switch, fuse, etc.

Oregonian, Could we see a picture of the sill plates? I would like to see what a non-Fisher plate looks like.

Factory AM/FM... Cruise... Dual 4bbl... in a wagon DROOL!!!!!

I also have some scanned literature and an 64 Buick commercial located at my website.

The Oregonian, Congrats on your purchase. Could we see some pictures? I especially like to see the minute differences between a wagon and big car such as rear wiper switch, dome lights, etc. Welcome to the 1964s!

I've owned single and dual cars. The manifolds are the exact same between a car with a single exhaust and dual exhaust.

PF 24 is the correct filter for the car, and that is all I run. Regarding oil, everyone has their opionion. I run 10W-30 in all my cars. This link explains Multi-weight oils: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question164.htm Multi-weight oils (such as 10W-30) are a new invention made possible by adding polymers to oil. The polymers allow the oil to have different weights at different temperatures. The first number indicates the viscosity of the oil at a cold temperature, while the second number indicates the viscosity at operating temperature.

I remember reading in Collectable Automobile that the Wildcat/LeSabre/Invicta/Electra shared most of the basic sheetmetal from 62-64. I have never seen any repo panels for these cars, so I think fabrication is probably in the works. At least with a floor pan, the metal does not have to be exacting as does a fender, etc.

I am trying to determine if 64 full size Buicks shipped with a Moraine Power Booster or a Bendix Power Booster. Can anyone help me with this? If you own a 64 full size, please let me know if your Booster is gold or black. Thanks,