BamaWildcat

I installed an electric fuel pump for priming only in my 1964. It is mounted on the frame rail, using one of the bump stop bolt holes to mount the bracket.

If it is repair you are after, I echo the others advice of a local radiator shop. I have to warn you radiator shops are a dying and non-technology embracing breed, so expect to call on the phone. It looks like Old Air Products sells you heater core outright: https://www.ebay.com/itm/192918888606

Agree. I'm looking at one of the Caswell plug and plate kits.

Replying here for those that might stumble on this years later. Turns out the original finish is the copper plating over the nickel or steel. Wish I had known this before I sanded through the copper...

Getting ready to take my 64 Wildcat to the paint shop. Took out the fuel vent loop and after sanding I'm seeing a brass/copper color, and then with more (inadvertent) sanding comes up with silver/plain metal. Anyone know the factory finish?

Thank you for the kind words. The dyno staff actually drove, but as I stood in front of the car I thought "wow, I'm glad I have newer motor mounts!" I've never had the car to 110 MPH in my ownership. It sounded great though.

Here is the last chapter on the project. Over 14 months, I documented what it took to re-rebuild the engine. Once it was broken in, I took it on the dyno! Please check it out:

Ladies and Gentlemen, here is the update.The machine shop tells me about a certain oil gallery plug. This plug is apparently close to the gear on the camshaft. Whether this was a replacement screw in plug, or converted to a screw in plug, whichever one, Dave or Revenge Machine put in a plug that was too long. The cam gear ate the softer metal of the screw in plug that was too long, depositing all those metal shavings in the oil until it dug the plug threads out of the way. The machine shops also believes the engine was not assembled in a clean environment. They aren't saying it was assembled out in a dirt field, but they found debris within the engine that indicate due care for cleanliness was not a priority.The damage included needing to replace every bearing in the engine. The crankshaft had to be ground and different sized bearings installed. All cylinders were honed and all rings were replaced with cast ones to solve the problem with sealing.The reassembled short block came home.$1,841.92 to fix the problem for an engine that was guaranteed "against anything but leaks". (The engine did leak, of course).Have I mentioned I have never heard from Dave?Dave, if you are reading this, the address you may send the check to is still the same.

Surprisingly, on the problem cylinder, none of the rings were broken. The mechanic did notice a wear pattern he didn't like within the cylinder wall and on the piston, almost looked like a darker steak. It's highlighted by the darker streak up and down. I wish I had a root cause right in front of me, but as soon as the mechanic saw we saw, he recommended we pause I and I call my engine builder. It was only after it became completely apparent I was now in this alone have I engaged a machine shop the next metropolitan area over, and I will have a full report after disassembly.

I was very excited to get this part of my restoration complete. Sadly, the engine is back out of the car, and I'll let the video speak for itself:

Buick did use all 3 speeds in drive. Low position was either dropping it from 3 to 2 if you were at speed, or 2 to 1 if you were going slow.

I always leave mine attached to the jack.

Wow those are neat.

Since you purchased a motor to get working, you may already be an expert at this, but I have a video of putting new brushes in my motor that may be mildly helpful: https://1964buick.com/resto_logs/engine/odds and ends.htm

She needed the pets!

I just finished replacing the heater core in my 64 Wildcat with AC. I found that the Advance Auto/Carquest 399062 still fits. Some others were reporting it was too short. TI replaced the heater core, glove box liner, and added a mercury switch for the glove box light instead of the plunger switch that always hung up the door. I've attached the video I made. It is a deep dive, with the hope to help someone else that has to tackle this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0fIWUCx2G7I

Inline Tube sells them on eBay through their store: https://www.ebay.com/itm/64-88-GM-Models-Windshield-Wiper-Motor-Firewall-Mounting-Grommets-Brass-Strap/200929854014

1962 full size car manifolds for $150 plus shipping from North Alabama. No cracks, weight is present, and a bit of spring as well. Valve is not present. Includes bolts.

My Wildcat always was hard to start after siting so I took the plunge and put a pump on just for priming. I wanted to put this on the forum because the types of fuel pumps that a mechanic pump can pull through are not well documented. I used an Airtex E8251 and it works very well. The Airtex E8016S seems to have the same specifications as the E2851, and is listed for motor vehicles, however some say the design will not pass fuel when not engaged, like having a mechanical pump pull through it. The manufacturer's literature shows a gear like impeller to pump the fuel on the 16S, instead of the solenoid style of the one I am using. Airtex says the warranty is void if a fuel filter is not in place, so I am using a Wix 33046 before it goes to the pump. The neatest thing I belive I have done is wired it up to an accessory switch, so it is right on the dash and doesn't look out of place. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sUUJd8ECvXU

2023 Edit: Please make sure if you are going to do business with David Gaines out of Florida you read this entire thread. My 2019 project of the year was getting my Nailhead removed and rebuild by the very own DualQuadDave. My block ended up being cracked and it had to be swapped, but it has been a great adventure getting my Wildcat back on the road! Don't know why the thumbnail isn't showing up, but here is the first drive:

Afternoon Everyone, I just uploaded the entire 852 page 1964 Buick Chassis Service Manual to YouTube. It'll be on my website later on. If you view in 4K, you should be able to take easy, viewable, screenshots. https://www.youtube.com/embed/yWsUv0yZtqM

I'm super proud of the fact they didn't paint the door striker.

For those with 63s and 64s with A/C, I’ve found the reproduced 61-62 Impala heater valve can be used if you add a bracket. I’ve also used a Gates 28473 90 degree hose to make the bend toward the engine, but I bet normal hose would work. If you fast forward to 4:59, I go over it in this video:

Bead blasted the bracket that holds the U Shaped A/C hose that goes to the STV. Found out it had a rubberized coating. Anyone know if the whole bracket was rubberized, or just the part that goes around the metal hose?

Chiming in here late to the party, but my 1964 401 had the plastic tipped gear on the crank. Got the whole timing set in steel at probably AutoZone: http://www.1964buick.com/resto_logs/motor_rehab.htm