Smartin

JR - thanks for joining the Centurion forums! Those rallye wheels come around fairly often, but shipping can be a bear. Thanksfully, I had found mine at a local swap meet for $100 for the set. Those are the ones on the convertible that Rolf owns now. JMC - I won't be trashing any of those CA emission parts. They are in good condition and intact...surprisingly! Even the air pump belt is still on it <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

St. Augustine sounds like a great idea!

Oh, and for some specific or general questions you might have with the LeSabre, feel free to come over to the Centurion forums! www.buickcenturion.com/forums

Hey John! If I decide to keep the Wildcat, I may do something under the hood, but that's not in the cards at the moment. I am working on my 71 Centurion Formal Coupe now. ..doing the same thing I did to the LeSabre, hopefully trumping that job. Although, that will be a difficult task! How is the LeSabre, still have it?

It's finally getting some attention!!

I tried this for the first time on my stainless trim around the windshield of the Wildcat when I had it off to replace the glass. It's actually very easy, and difficult to screw up.....unless you get the piece caught in the arbor by slipping off the wheel. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" /> OOPS! I managed to straighten it and get it back on the car with no problems... It's not as hard as one might think - but Matt's right - it's MESSY! And absolutely wear eye protection.

Ok, I see. This picture does a good job of stating that.. Looks like I need to alter my paint job <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Am I correct in assuming that NO 425's in 1966 had Carter AFB's on them? If that is the case, then I just solved my mystery.

I see the engine has the code MT, and it is numbers matching with the VIN. OK, so I went here: http://www.buicks.net/years/66/66tech.html#engine%20ident If you click on the CODE link for the engine identification, it states the MT code is a 425. COOL! BUT, if you go here, it says differently. http://buicks.net/shop/reference/engine_ident_63_75.html Intake casting number: 1375549 Block casting: 1364705 Carb: 4059 S What engine is this??

Well this is interesting.. Your question prompted me to go look at the engine code on the top on the engine.. MT! EDIT: Buicks.net has it wrong in one spot on their website. It's a 401

Mine is no match for the ones shown...but it is at a point where the only thing I can do is scoop everything onto the floor and just sift the good parts out <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> Plus, I have absolutely no room to work, with the car sitting there. I also need to figure out a new shelving system.

I just used an off-the-shelf parts store flat black spray paint. Where on the fender trim is grey paint? I must've missed that. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />

They have to be custom made...no one makes these en masse.

Tom, I can post this on the v8buick board as well, if you are not currently a member over there.

Well that was fun.. I finished buffing this afternoon and put a coat of wax on it. I cleaned up all the windows and trim, and gave the engine compartment a dusting off...which didn't do much. I also repainted the flat black "highlights" in the whiskers on the front fenders. ...as well as the rear panel between the taillights. It helps to get those sharp lines and contrasting colors back on the car.

Pretty car!!

I imagine that most of the G body websites will cover this car.. www.gnttype.org www.turbobuicks.com www.turbobuick.com www.t6p.com

I was just going to throww them on the shelf...so if you want them, you can have them. Once I get the car registered here, I will let you know.

I can't help that I have high standards.. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

Bill, if you are very familiar with color sanding, then go ahead and use the 1000 grit. It will work fast, so make sure you avoid corners and edges. I used 2000 on the 71 LeSabre last year, and it worked well. 3M makes nice compounds for buffing. The compound I am using is supposed to be for 1500 and finer paper, but it seems to be working well. It is 3M PerfectIt 3000 rubbing compound 06062. It can be used with a machine or by hand. I highly recommend a machine with a wool pad to get the first run done. After that, switch to a foam polishing pad and some 3M PerfectIt 3000 Trizact Spot Finishing material 06070. This will remove the swirl marks left by the Rubbing compound. I wish I would've done the swirl mark remover on the LeSabre. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" /> You can do through, and hit the spots you missed with the buffer, by hand. Be sure to remove as much small trim as possible, such as BUICK letters on the hood or trunk, or anything that will be snagged by the buffer.

74 is correct... I bought one of those speedos a few years ago, and placed it in my 71...pretty neat. But it was slightly skewed wrong, so it was hard to read the numbers in the top corners of the dial.

I did a little buffing today. I was stumped at the layer of old dirty paint when I started working this morning. The wool pad just loaded up with crap almost instantly. This was looking to be quite a project if I had to rub the entire car out by hand BEFORE I machine buffed it. BUT I had an idea. I just copied what I did with the 71 LeSabre last year. I looked through my box full of various grades of sandpaper, and finally found some 1000 grit paper. That did the trick! It takes off the dirty layer pretty quickly, and leaves a clean smooth surface for me to buff to a shine. The paint is in pretty bad shape. There a numerous spots all over the front end of the car that look like it was parked under a bird's nest, or possibly a tree that dripped sap all over it. Oh well, it'll be a good 20-footer when it's buffed completely. I also had the front windshield replaced today. That was $244 I wasn't planning on spending. I pulled the stainless trim on both the front and rear windshields and polished all the trim while I had it off. Gotta love that good ol' GM rear window rust!! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" /> Here is the car with just the passenger side of the hood buffed. Here is a comparison from the side, showing the buffed front fender, and the DULLLLL doors. more

I have been turned away from the Sloan Museum due to their lack of 71 references. Apparently, it was lost in some sort of fire?

<img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> I guess it all depends on how nice the paint buffs out...that was the deciding factor with the 71 LeSabre 4 door last year.

You know me too well... <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" /> It'll get a detail job with the paint...I already cleaned up a spot on the right fender. It really cleans up well and shines under all that dirt and oxidation. As far as the interior goes, it'll get cleaned up, but no seat upholstery replacement...unless I magically learn how to sew seat covers! I'll probably clean the motor up a little, just to knock the dirt and grease off.