rocketraider

80 ft-lb on the head bolts, 35 on the intake manifold, 25 on the exhaust manifold. Cylinder head torque sequence- start at the two middle bolts and work outward, clockwise. Intake manifold- start at the four end bolts and work inward, clockwise. Hope your luck with exhaust manifold bolts is better than mine usually is. Spray some copper gasket sealer on both sides of the intake gasket port area, and don't spare the RTV at the corners of the end seals. You can always wipe off any excess once everything's set in place. Make sure you've got some help. These intakes are HEAVY and awkward to handle by yourself. I usually leave the heater valve and the thermostat housing on to have something to grab it by. Also recommend a Victor/DANA intake gasket. I've never gotten a Fel-Pro to fit or seal right. An electric drill with some scotchbrite cookies does an awesome job cleaning things up. Judge for yourself, but I'd be inclined to do a valve job while the heads were off. Have fun! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

Preston Bryant's vote doesn't surprise me since he is known to be anti-BS and anti-stupidity in the GA (ask the folks up around Charlottesville). McQuigg however DOES surprise me since she has been involved in some of the most inane and restrictive legislation ever laid out on the House floor. Anyway- good to hear this news, and thanks to all VA members who worked for it.

I think it was on display in the Country Music Hall of Fame at one time. Seems like it was 1998 or so we stopped in Nashville on our way to an OCA meet and toured the CMHoF, and it was there along with the Hank Williams Cadillac. Wait a minute- that was Webb Pierce's Bonneville we saw. My bad.

It's just a little too far away for me this year when I look at time off vs what it would take to drive out there. Hopefully it will be as good as the last few have been. It's the same thing for 2005. Maybe 2006 in Texas, and 2007 for sure if Music City Rockets bid to host goes thru. Having chaired the 1995 North Carolina meet, I know all too well what it takes to put on a show that size. It's a lot of hard work and frustration, but when someone comes by and thanks you for a nice time and a good show, it's all worthwhile. Even when it looked like everything was going to hell in spite of your best efforts. If we could just get hotels to quit starting construction, or changing owners and closing 6 months before showdate, there'd be a lot less gray hair and ulcers in OCA <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />.

Hoo boy. There's little to nothing out there on these cars. Your best bet for reference is factory sales literature and photos, dealer albums (Color & Fabric, Product Selling Information) and a good set of factory parts books. I would make sure the cars are mechanically sound before sinking time and money into anything else. Then tackle the body restoration, and finally the interior since it will have to come out anyway to properly do the body and paint work. (Take it out- you will never get all the bodyshop dust off it.) The top frame is a big concern on these cars too. New front bows, latches and electrical are available, but expensive and most trim shops hate to see one of these cars coming. There is also a noticeable difference in manufacturing quality of tops for them. Check the Buick forums for top discussions- there seem to be a lot of 71-75 LeSabre/Centurion ragtop owners there. You have what are arguably the best of the big 70s ragtops. I've never been able to warm up to the front and rear styling of the 72 and especially the 74. When the cars are done, stick on a set of Super Stock IV Polycast wheels wearing about a 1-3/4" whitewall, and you will have a very stylish big ragtop.

08C is the build time- in this case 3rd week © of August (08). The 595 isn't showing up in any of my stuff but I suspect it is an internal Arlington plant code. May be an option code. Does the car have any of these options? Power windows/seat/locks, rear shoulder belts, electric rear defog, air conditioning (though that usually shows up as C60), Night Watch, or demand wipers? These required different wiring harnesses and/or body components.

How ruff? The mantra I live by anymore is "Get the best car you can find to start with". You'll come out cheaper in the long run. You can find very nice examples for $5-8,000, where you might spend a lot more than that to restore one especially if it needs everything. That said, a Jetstar I is at least as collectible as a Starfire (they're basically the same car, just less unobtainium trim on a J-I), but they can usually be had for less money. This one is well optioned. The 1964 J-I shares its interior and exterior trim with Dynamic 88 and is considered a Dynamic subseries (D88 is series 3400, J-I is series 3457). The bucket seats are the same as Starfire and other full-size GM cars from that period. Drivetrain and body glass are same as Starfire. Some things to look out for: Parts for the 394 engine and Slim Jim transmission are available but can be expensive. If the transmission needs work, it may be hard to find anyone who'll touch it. The rear bumpers are often rotted thru at the mounting brackets. They also tend to be intolerant of 93 octane fuel- they were designed for 100+ octane. Rubber parts are available thru Steele www.steelerubber.com and Fusick www.fusick.com. Fusick has some reproduction trim. Mechanical and electrical parts are available thru NAPA and our old friend ebay, but be warned, you'll be up against me and a couple of other hardheads for the NOS GM stuff <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />!

You could, but consider the thing is 30+ years old now and would need new seals and bearings at the very least. Plus there are compatibility issues in those years- some deep gears won't fit in some tall gear carrier housings without changing everything. $1500 does sound a little high though, but price often depends on where you live. As bad as I hate to suggest it, try finding a Chevy 12-bolt rear end to swap out drum-to-drum. You may come out cheaper and some of the cars came with them, so it's not complete heresy to put one in.

$3500 is a fair price for a rust-free matching numbers car. Partially restored means different things to different people. Look around the back window and the quarter panel lower edges for rust. Also check the trunk floor closely. 1965 was the year GM went to butyl tape windshield/backlight sealing and leakage was common. The chrome diecast tail panel and side scoops are prone to pit and hard to find, and are expensive when you find good ones. realoldspower.com and 442.com have extensive tech sections and knowledgeable people, though they tend to be a little heavy on 68-72. 442.com is not as easy to navigate as some sites and has no provision for editing or bumping a post to top. fusick.com for reproduction parts. Year One and The Parts Place carry a good selection of stuff too. Keep us posted!

<img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" /> I missed this post when you made it. Had all the info you needed too <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />. Glad you figured it out.

There were actually 92 Delta convertibles supplied for the 1974 Indianapolis 500 program, in addition to the Cutlass based Hurst/Oldses, the Custom Cruiser wagon photo platform car and a bunch of GMC trucks. Olds even furnished one Cutlass Salon 4 door sedan in Pace Car trim for IMS owner Tony Hulman's personal use. There was some discussion about that car on the Forums a while back. Visit www.hurstolds.com and contact H/OCA Director Calvin Badgley for a realistic value. He owns one of the Delta convertibles.

OK- you've nailed the VIN. 53=1953, 8=Super 88, M=Lansing MI assembly plant. 53-3667DX: 53=1953 model year 36=Super 88, 67=convertible D=deluxe trim X=equipped with all hydraulic controls (top, seat, windows) TX= hydraulic top only. L 471= Lansing assembly, 471 is the Fisher Body job number Trim #39 is Ivory leather/Black leather, used on 88 convertibles. All the above is from the 1962 edition Olds Body Parts and Accessories Catalog. I don't have any documentation on the ACC codes, though I'm pretty sure K2 is Autronic Eye. Does the car have a vacuum power antenna or tinted glass? that may be the K3. Hope this helps you.

It's good that these cars are finally getting some recognition, but it also means the end of affordable ones once the hucksters see it. Now every plain jane four door Wildcat extant will suddenly become a $20,000 car. That said, GS ragtop or not for $55k that car had better have been in a time capsule. I just don't see that money for those cars.

Beautiful and interesting pictures, Brian. Esp in context of all the E350 vans and 2-ton box trucks used as ambulances now. Two funeral services here are using stretched Chrysler minivans as hearses/flower cars. I'm sorry, but I do not want to be taken out of here in a minivan! At least Brooks, long-standing funeral service provider to my family, is still using their light green Superior Cadillacs as they have since about 1950. Minivan indeed! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif" alt="" />

The hot light works a little differently as it grounds thru a contact in the ignition switch for bulb test when starting. But since it's working, that says it's getting power thru the fuse. Did you make sure the contact wires on the new bulbs were inline with the strips in the sockets? Possible bad bulbs or sockets, or could be the printed circuit on the back of the gage clusters. Try twisting the sockets back and forth a bit to cut thru any corrosion on the circuit board.

There is a 10 amp fuse in the fuse block labelled "GAGES/TRANS". It is the power source for the fuel gage and warning lights. Check to see if it is blown or clips corroded. There's a remote possibility of a bad terminal in the ignition switch, but if it's bad there'd be other problems- no turn signals/backup lights, and the car will probably not run. Let me know if they still don't work after replacing the Gages/Trans fuse.

And I'm willing to bet the Toyota ad agancy is totally unaware that Buick built Century and LeSabre <span style="font-weight: bold">"LUXUS"</span> models 1973-74. Took my high school driver-ed behind the wheel training in a black 1973 Century Luxus sedan with a blood red interior.

Indeed they are, unless someone went to an awful lot of trouble and e-bay to find a correct dated set. The 3Q75 is the giveaway. That's the date code- 3(rd) Q(uarter) 1975. The cables are usually dated either 1QXX or 3QXX for warranty and service campaign purposes, and the cars generally had cables made at least 1 quarter-year ahead of actual car build. 3Q75 would be correct for a 1976 Buick built between late Fall 1975 and Spring 1976. Try wiping the cables with some WD40. It will clean off any grime and won't disturb the printed lettering. You may find they are actually gray.

Dave, if there's any concern (and there should be), you can put a bolt thru the two arms of the regulator to keep it from moving. Either drill a hole thru both or it may already have one. I am fortunate in never having had to replace a rear quarter motor. The Toro's front driver window is getting weak and I do not relish replacing it. Other carlines are a simple motor changeout. The Toro cannot use that shortcut.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> my guy has been on several nationally televised car shows and is considered an expert in this area.</div></div> I think you've answered your own question about why the estimates are high. The gear setup sounds about right for NEW posi gears and installation. The exhaust sounds a bit steep, but is probably not out of line since you're getting two cats. Consider yourself lucky to find someone who will do full duals on that car. Most shops are afraid of an EPA fine since the original exhaust configuration is changed.

Most HydraMatics have a reverse blocker piston that physically prevents shifting to reverse if the car is moving more than a few mph forward or if engine speed is high enough to actuate its hydraulic circuit. It may be misadjusted. Also check engine and transmission mounts. There's a similar thread in the Buick forums concerning Dynaflows doing the same thing.

Looked for one for 13 years before finding a suitable one- that was largely original and unboogered, or hadn't been restored incorrectly. I ended up with an appearance package 350 car, but it has Indy history and documentation from new. Also lowest optioned 74 known to H/OCA. Air, AM-FM mono and courtesy lamp package are it. I installed a tilt column for my own convenience. Just to let you know what you may be up against. 380 W30 cars and 1420 350s built, and typical mid-70s GM attrition rate. My experience is that the original owners usually took care of the cars, but once they got into the used car pipeline and the redneck yahoos got hold of them, they weren't long for the world. And a yahoo with a fat white-trash girlfriend and a couple of snot-nosed yard apes can screw up a car like a Hurst/Olds quicker than you can say scat. Found one that had been painted red "Like the factry ought to have done" and several that had suffered badly done engine transplants. One even had a SBC and Chevy Rally wheels on it. I had driven 3 hours to look at it, but I saw that and got back in the car.

A lot of the original body cloth was made right down the road from here by Collins & Aikman in Roxboro NC. Some of the local guys can tell you when they made certain cloths. They're still making it- one of the few textile plants that hasn't been decimated by NAFTA.

Barker, glad to hear Judy is better. I don't think I've seen you since y'all used to come up to Roxboro Plant switchyard though I know Tim sees you at Denton about every year. Ran into Joe Ledford at Raleigh swap meet this afternoon. I hope I'll be able to retire from CP&L/Progress Energy/whatever it is now and enjoy life a little in a few years.

www.smsautofabrics.com . Not always inexpensive, but they are truly amazing when it comes to sourcing original upholstery yardage. Examples: I was able to get wet-look and woven vinyl for my 74 Hurst/Olds. A Pontiac friend found the correct "Palais" cloth for his 1966 Bonneville Brougham. They just came thru for me on 1964 Olds Ninety Eight Custom Sport Coupe cloth. Someone here on the forums from Sweden found "Navajo" cloth for a 1958 Buick thru them. The website has a contact page. Fill it out and send to them, and they'll send you samples of what they have.