rocketraider

John, the single line unit is for non-air cars, while the two-line unit with fuel return line is for airconditioned cars or certain performance options. You should be able to see the 1/4" fuel return line if that sender unit was put on. It would mean shipping it across country, but if you have no luck finding the right one, www.autoinstruments.com in Martinsville VA. They do fuel sender rebuilds as well as tach, clock and gage restoration. The guy is good and has done a couple for us, notably one from a 66 Starfire that read full all the time. Gentry Zentmeyer, classics@autoinstruments.com or 877-450-0110.

We have them here in the States too, and my uncle used to swear by them for Farmall tractors and six-cylinder Chevrolets. The demonstrations here usually switch between the factory ignition and the product, which is nothing more than a small high-voltage transformer. More voltage to the plugs = more spark and smoother performance.

1/2" air impact wrench. You may have to go thru a couple of loosen/tighten/loosen cycles with the wrench but the bolt will eventually come out. Use it to replace the bolt too.

Are you looking for the chassis manual, or the Fisher Body manual? Get both- good investment. Be aware that 442 and GTO have driven the price up on these, but you should still be able to get both for under $100. I think some of the guys on here mentioned CD-ROM versions too.

I think the color you're talking about is "Antique Jade", but to be sure, look on the data plate underhood, left upper cowl area, and you'll see a pair of two-digit numbers followed by PNT. 1st number is lower body color, 2nd is upper body color or vinyl/convertible roof color and are the codes for the factory applied paint. Antique Jade is code 49 Palm Green is 42 Lime Green is 43 With this paint code number, you can have touch-up paint mixed at any paint & body supply store, and many of them can put it in a spray can for you. Of course, if the car has been repainted a non-factory color, all bets are off. I have a soft spot for those old big wagons. A 1976 woodgrain 2-seater was my daily driver for several years and it never failed to take me where I needed to go. Finally developed a deep engine knock so I decided it was time to retire the old beast.

12.5v at the alternator is too low. Should be 13.5-14. Alternator has quit. Get it rebuilt at a local shop, I think they generally do better work than parts store rebuilts. You might want to make sure someone hasn't put a later style internally regulated alternator on the car. Your blue/white wire plug orientation should be ||. Later alt is - - . If repairing the alt doesn't solve it, you have wiring issues.

I really don't see how a local government can dictate how many historic plates you can have. State law ALWAYS supersedes local law. Contact Maryland's DMV and make sure they're aware of this little stunt. I think a few well-placed letters and phone calls from the higher authority will convince them to back off. How does stupid legislation get passed? It's because we elect stupid people or those with agendas to office. Elect stupid people with agendas, and bad law gets passed. You need to start writing letters and making calls to the people who passed this law. Hold their feet to the fire and make sure they know you will work to unseat them next election. Get the whole AACA Region and other car folk behind it- there is power in numbers, and one thing any politician fears is defeat at the polls. They also get tired of being bugged about things, and if you bug them enough they'll start listening to your concerns. Just be professional and courteous about it. Don't think it will work? A Confederate heritage group I belong to unseated Gov. Roy Barnes of Georgia using the same tactics. After his defeat, Barnes admitted he "underestimated the power and convictions of this group".

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">BTW, if anyone with the national club's website reads this, it would be nice to see an interactive and maintained version of the FAQ managed by the OCA. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> </div></div> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> Sorry- had to laugh. The website gets updated, what, once in 5 years? And we think it could incorporate or manage a FAQ section? 442.com is a privately owned and managed website, and I expect its owner would not be amenable to the OCA managing its FAQ.

There's a C-shaped clip in there that you remove before taking the castle nut off. Once that's out of the way remove the bearings and drum should come off easy unless the brakes are adjusted up too tight.

F block indicates an early 455 engine which would be right for a 68 Ninety-Eight. G heads didn't come out till 1971. Is this intake aluminum? One mind tells me we're being taken for a ride here, but it's entirely possible the car has had a 1971 engine put in during its life, and it was a W30 engine.

That IS a <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" /> ad! One of the kids at work has this huge toothy smile- I mean like big mule teeth or Chiclets <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" />.; no telling how much money his folks spent on that smile. I frequently call him "Buick", and being 26, he has no idea why I call him that. I'll have to show him the ad <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" />.

I'd try a polish like Meguiar's 5 or 7 glaze, or 3M's Finesse-It or Imperial Hand Glaze first before I set in on black paint with any rubout compound. Always best to use the finest and least aggressive cut that will clear up the problem. There used to be a glaze called "Liquid Ebony" made especially for dark colors, is it still made? Also- Zymol is a nice wax, but from what I've seen has very little paint cleaning capability.

Well, Sky- if you lived near DC, wouldn't you be uncontrollable too? <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> I think I95 is one of the worst roads to drive and will go out of my way to avoid it. I81 isn't much better in certain stretches. As I grow older, I find I prefer traveling the Federal and State routes. Not as much traffic for the most part, and you can make nearly as good time on four-lanes as Interstates. Except for that morass on US 29 called Charlottesville <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif" alt="" />.

Any Borg-Warner T-5 or T-10 designed for a GM bellhousing will bolt up, as will a Richmond Gear unit. Your problem will be finding a B-O-P pattern bellhousing. Originals have gotten expensive and I don't know if Lakewood or Zoom still make them aftermarket. Don't hold me to this, but I think 82-later F-body pedals will work in the G-body car. My guess is you'll have to use a hydraulic clutch. www.realoldspower.com will have some good tech info on this sort of stuff, and guys on there can direct you to G-body sites. And then again you could just build up a Turbo 400 and put in there. Same overall length as a 200-4R, just change the driveshaft yoke.

Hee hee.. or ANYWHERE, Grumpy. One of the best old car yards in the VA/NC area closed up a couple months ago and I hated that. Try Jim Michael at Classic Olds in Clemmons NC. clasic442@aol.com or 336-766-7845. He has a lot of 68-72 stuff and may have the braces. From what I see in the parts books, 68-9 are all that fits properly.

Remove the instrument cluster bezel and the fuel gage, then you can go in from the top side and remove the switch attaching screws. Two screws at the top hold the bezel on, then tilt it toward you and lift out. Three screws hold the fuel gage in. Remove, disconnect wiring plug and it's out. Battery disconnected of course. There's a large Olds club in the Cincinnati area. www.cincyoldsclub.org . Lots of knowledgeable and friendly Olds people there, who put on a very nice OCA National Meet last year.

I don't even want to hear about a Slim Jim. The green Starfire has suddenly developed a seal leak, and as usual no one here will touch it. So it has to go to Greensboro or Charlotte for service. Seems to me that if someone can rebuild a Powerglide or TorqueFlite, they could do a HydraMatic. They work off the same principles.

Junkyard item.

There are several ground straps in the 1970 dash. Three are behind the instrument cluster, for headlights, cluster lights/gauges, and heater/AC control. You can access these by removing the cluster bezel and then the instruments. It comes out from the front. Another is behind the dash in the radio/ashtray area for the lighter and radio chassis. All of them attach to the metal lower dash by studs that attach the plastic dash to the metal dash. Make sure the nuts are on tight. You can see them from behind the dash. Since everything is affected, I'd check the bolts attaching the dash to the car body first, then work your way to the other ground straps. In a convertible, it's possible exposure to weather has oxidized the ground connections or they may have loosened over the years. One more thot- is car automatic or stick? Sometimes AT cars will ground thru the shifter cable if any of the chassis ground straps are broken or loose. Check all of those- engine to firewall, (-) battery cable to fender, frame to fenderwell. Usually if that happens, the shifter will be very hard to operate or may freeze up entirely. Neighbor's kid had a 4-speed 69 Camaro ground thru the heater control cables once and there was enough current to melt the main cable to where you could not operate it. Sure enough, the kid had been messing underhood and didn't put the engine to firewall ground strap back.

Kent-Moore J-9215 should work for 1965 if you can find one. Try Eastwood www.eastwood.com . They have some tools that might work here.

An old-time carburetor guy told me a few years ago that a 4GC would have to have the fuel level raised above factory specs anytime an aftermarket carb kit with rubber-tipped needle was used- sometimes up to 3/8" higher depending on engine. Most kits available now also do not have different primary and secondary needle/seats as the OEM Rochester kits do. I have one on a 64 Olds that drove me up the tree with the same symptoms, and I have yet to tweak all of the stalling out of it. I found that using a Rochester kit gave me better results than even a HyGrade or Echlin could deliver, and I think those are generally the best aftermarket.

A good electronics or radio supply shop (probably NOT Radio Shack) should have an adapter plug that will work. You still may have to make up some jumper wires and run rear speaker wiring. I think AM cars had only the two dash speakers. I put an 80s Delco Digital AM-FM-cassette in the 76 98. To avoid cutting up the car wiring, I got the proper aftermarket adapter plug for the radio unit and then put small straight spade terminals on the plug wiring to adapt it to the car wiring.

Drive. Then loosen the clamp that connects the column shift rod to the equalizer shaft under the car. Pull the column shift rod tight against the D stop, then tighten the clamp. You may have to readjust the neutral start switch. To do that, put shifter in D, then loosen the two screws holding the switch to column. There is a small hole on the side facing the seat. Move the switch until you can insert a 3/32" drill bit into the hole and then tighten the screws. To adjust the shift pointer: shifter in D. Remove the dash trim plate under the steering column to access the pointer. Loosen the screw holding it to the column and move it to point to D. Tighten the screw and button everything up.

They could need to be completely lubed from one end to other. My guess is that the speedometer head itself needs lubricating, or the cruise control regulator may need some. Is it the original electric motor driven cruise? Speedometer magnets may have gotten weak too. A good speedometer shop can clean, oil and remagnetize the speedometer to work perfectly. 65-66 speedometer is not difficult to remove once you get the A/C ducts out of the way, just kinda close quarters. Disconnect the cable and wiring plug, remove two screws and it's out. Here's a short tech session on how speedometers work. It's actually a small induction generator. The cable drives a small two-pole magnet inside a small cage. The spinning magnets induce the cage to turn, and the cage is what drives the pointer. There are springs on the pointer that resist the turning of the cage. The faster the magnet spins the farther the cage turns within the limits the resistor spring puts on it.

The VIN tells the tale. 442 should have code 44 in the VIN. You need a build sheet to document W30. Example 344679M100001 is 3 (Oldsmobile) 44 (442) 67 (convertible) 9 (1969) M (Lansing assembly) 100001 (sequential serial number. Look for the boxed control arms and swaybars, and check the engine serial # to make sure it matches the VIN. It's stamped in a machined pad at the left front of the engine, may be covered by the PS/alt bracket. Should be an E block (long stroke 400, 68-9 only) with C heads. Visit 442.com for more info and a good FAQ section. If everything checks out, it is an original 442 or someone went to an awful lot of trouble to clone one.