woz442

Thanks Glenn! What are good donors for the 700 autos? Are the adapter plates custom or available somewhere? What about 5 and 6-speed manuals, are there good choices available for manual trans donors that would fit, such as Trans Ams?

I have a nice streetable Rocket 350 in my '70 Cutlass covert, estimated 300hp. I have read about swaps to 4 speed autos and loved the stock one in my '86 442 years ago, the 3.73 worked well with the 4 speed. I would like to know if the swap is viewed as stupid, smart, a waste.....the ins and outs of this swap....and the best donors from which to pilfer the appropriate trans, if it's even a 700!! I understand that the 700 is more robust and thought that to be the right choice should I continue to tweak my motor or go with a big block someday.

Thanks Terry! I've actually only had big blocks in the past with the exception of an old 283 in a 63 Chevy, so I want to keep the low end there. I would be using a regular Performer manifold and not the RPM version, I understand those differences. I am alos looking at an exhaust with an H pipe as you suggested. I also agree with your suggestion about keeping the pipes reasonably sized but headers and exhaust. Any good sources out there for the Olds small block Gold hi-temp spray paint? I thought Year One used to carry it but couldn't find it anymore. Thanks again. Tom

I have a '70 Olds Cutlass Supreme w/ 350 2-bbl automatic single exhaust. I believe this engine is a 250hp model with 9:1 compression as it is original with stock rebuild. I have, however added an HEI ignition. Does anyone have experience with mild performance modifications to this configuration? Specifically, I want to add headers, dual exhausts, a 600cfm carb on a Edelbrock Performer intake and want to know if I am wasting my time by keeping the stock cam with these mods. Not a race car mind you, but I want to approach the 310hp of a W-31 as economically as possible. Thanks. Tom

Thanks, good idea to try it on a place that doesn't show. I also was told to try acetone on a Q-tip, I'm just not sure how strong I can get with the solvents before they start to attack the vinyl. Thanks again.

Fortunately, I have a zero deductible on Comprehensive so I'm good on the insurance front, it just seems such a shame if I had a way to clean it off. I found out that the genuises went up and down the street that day doing it to lots of cars, only rubbing it out of a clear coat on paint would have been a lot easier!! And to think that I'd be the one on trouble if I caught them and worked 'em over......thanks.

My '70 Cutlass convertible with WHITE top was subjected to some ass#@*! with a black permanent marker......HELP!!!! I'm told I'm probably out of luck on cleaning the top and that the strongest solvent I dare apply is lacquer thinner. I have tried Wesley's Bleach White tire cleaner to no avail. Any miracle cleaners out there folks???? Thanks. Tom

Anyone have any experience in utilizing a 5 or 6-speed manual trans in a 70-72 442? Many of the manuals I see have a 450 ft-lb torque limit and we all know that isn't enough for even a stock 455 of that vintage, let alone one built to hang with a Viper on the street. I'd like to run a 3.90 gear yet still have some top end cruising speed. An alternative would be a 4-speed auto, but there seems to be the same issue with those I have seen being able to handle the torque. Any suggestions? Tom

Thanks Glenn! Your tips made finding the problem easy, I really appreciate your help. Tom

I've got what appears to be a bad ground in the dash of my '70 Olds 442 convertible. When I hit bumps or put the car in reverse all of the dash (radio, lights, convertible top controls, etc) does not work....then will come back once in a while when hitting a bump or something. Before I tear into the dash, any spcific places I should be heading to find this bad ground> I hate to remove all the air ductwork and such if I wouldn't be heading in the right direction. Thanks. Woz

Does anyone have any info on the difference in weight between '70s vintage stock cast iron 350 and 455 engine assemblies? Any ideas on the weight savings that would be achieved in using aluminum heads on a 455 versus the stock cast iron heads? Thanks. Woz