rocketraider

Tim, look on your decklid and see if there's a chrome badge on it that says "Cutlass Supreme Classic Last Edition". If so you've got one of the very last 1000 or so rear wheel drive Cutlasses made. A T-top car is fairly rare that year.<P>Limited is right, a 307 car isn't and won't be a hotrod but they're good engines and given reasonable care will last almost forever.<P>Now, young friend, if you get a jones for some horsepower, a 350 or 403 Olds engine is exactly the same size as the 307 and will drop in yer car in place of it.<P>Take it you've already found the G-body Webring? Think the Olds Club site links to it.<P>Bring yer car to the Carlisle All-GM Nationals June 14-16 at the Carlisle PA fairgrounds. Olds people will be there and the guy who coordinates the Olds show has an 87 442.

Hazarding a guess, in a non-pressurised cooling system I'd say it is a high point vent to get air out of the cooling system. These tubes are probably also higher than the top of the engine block. Air bubbles will always travel to the highest point in a vessel.<P>If feasible, I'd reproduce them. They were there for a reason, whether as a vent or otherwise.

Delco carb book says 1978 LeSabre/Riviera/Electra 350 cid engine, 49 states, automatic transmission, A/C or non A/C.

1st number: 4= Buick Division<BR>next 4 numbers: series and body style<BR>6th number: production year 1= 1971<BR>letter: assembly plant code<BR>last 6 numbers: sequential vehicle ID number<P><BR>Post it here or e-mail me and I'll decode it for you. I'm more familiar with Olds and Chevy assembly plant codes but I can do the rest of it.

I don't think the 4L80E will work without a computer. It's basically an electronic T400 from what I understand. Probably only made in Chevy bolt pattern too.<P>If you want overdrive, I'd go with the 200-4R for two reasons. First, the shift characteristics. Second, the BOP mounting pattern and size, which is the same as yer current Turbo 400. Way less complicated. You'll spend the same cash adapting a 700 as you would beefing up a 200. All in where you want to spend yer money.

Actually 1981. I had a Pontiac Safari wagon that was a 307 OD car. Couldn't pull a wet noodle out of a cat's behind and worked it to death going up long grades, but the thing got consistent 22-25 mpg until they started using reformulated gas around here. It met an untimely end at the hands of a Mitsubishi Eclipse that ran a red light and hit it square in the RR wheel. And do you know that girl drove that POS Mitsubishi away? I had a bent axle and had to be towed.<P>One thing I remember about that tranny is that it would invariably try to shift into OD any time you were in a bind and needed a quick part throttle downshift.

Back in the mid 80s when GM was eating a lot of 200s and early 700s, HydraMatic Division whined that they weren't able to build an automatic transmission that could stand up to the TurboBuick.<P>It was pointed out that HMD had built transmissions for years that could stand up to the most brutal big-blocks GM made. Why, therefore, could they not build one for a TurboBuick?<P>What they were trying to say was that the bean counters wouldn't let them spend the money to build a proper transmission for the car. Around 1986, those transmissions suddenly started getting a lot more reliable.<P>There's a thread on the Olds DF addressing the best 200s to use for a swap such as you're considering. High Performance Pontiac did a series on swapping a 200-4R into a GTO and turns out the 200 and 400 are the same length, meaning no driveshaft shortening. You might have to change the slip yoke to get the right splines, and you'd need the TVS cable and bracket to mount it to the Q-Jet. Plenty of dead 307 OD cars in junkyards to get them from.<P>Can you imagine? a big early 70s GM yacht that can get 20+ mpg and still bake the tires?

Try some PB Blaster. That's the best penetrating oil I've ever used. It'll unstick stuff that Kroil and Liquid Wrench can't touch.<P>If PB doesn't work, you'll have to use heat.<P>Coca-Cola is acidic. It may work. Ever seen a penny dipped in it? Comes out looking like just out of the die. Think about that next time you're enjoying an ice cold Co-Cola!

Dan't know of any camping facilities in Carlisle, some guys rent a motorhome space close to the grounds but I don't know how that works or how much per night. <A HREF="http://www.carsatcarlisle.com" TARGET=_blank>www.carsatcarlisle.com</A> should have some info.<P>What I DO know is that Carlisle area hotels are nothing less than rapacious during an event week. The year (1996) the Super 8 told us the next year's rate would be $125 a night, 3 night minimum, payable in full in advance and nonrefundable, was the year we moved to Gettysburg. I can drive 60 miles a day thru some of the most beautiful country anywhere to cut my lodging bill in half.

The worst that "could" happen if you change the fluid and filter is an expensive transaxle rebuild. The worst that "will" happen if you don't change it periodically is an expensive transaxle rebuild. I've heard that myth about not changing automatic transmission fluid too and I suppose it could be so back in the days when AT fluid was based on whale oil (that's what makes it stink so bad when it gets overheated or burnt). Modern AT fluids like Dexron III no longer have whale oil as an ingredient and are compounded to reduce varnish and deposits.<P>GM used to recommend trans fluid changes every 30,000 miles under normal conditions and every 12000 under severe service. So the 100,000 mile interval says they've improved things a lot.<P>If the fluid is clean, clear dark red and has no terribly burnt smell (Dexron III always has a slight stink to it), changing it won't hurt a thing. If it's brownish and has a noticeable stink, it's past time to change it. Most dealership service departments offer transmission flush service which is the way to go on a fluid/filter change. It gets all the old fluid out.

Bore is different between 62-64. Don't know if they'll bolt up or not. I'll say no since the 61-3 cars are very different than the 64-67. The LH is even different between 61-2 and 1963 according to the factory books I have.<P>It's always a last resort for me because of the expense, but have you tried Kanter? Lotta times they'll have it when nobody else in the world has it. <A HREF="http://www.kanter.com" TARGET=_blank>www.kanter.com</A>

You've considered the effects sun fading, dust and general wear have had on your original material? That may be why the SMS sample doesn't match. Or is it the pattern itself that is wrong? Sometimes you have to go with the best available match for your application.<P>Wasn't Hampton Coach making this stuff at one time?

I'd look hard at available fuels before completely dismissing the 9:1s. The 10.25s are going to require high octane fuel or additives to be happy and not ping holes in themselves. The 9.0s will run happily on 93 octane.<P>This is one modification I have no problem doing. It will allow the car to be used and enjoyed and gassed up almost anywhere.

Well- we've given you two factory sources that identify the cylinder as a 1953 only part. I think what is confusing you is the difference in parts subsection breakout between Buick and Oldsmobile.<P>The body edition of the 1962 Oldsmobile Parts and Accessories Catalog (the exact same book the dealer parts man used) lists Group 14.475 as "Lift Cylinder-Lift, Folding Top Operating" and identifies 4615149 as 1953 All Conv, 2 required.<P>The Olds book lists Group 14.481 as Motor- Pump, Folding Top and does not include the lift cylinders in that group. Buick apparently includes the hydraulic cylinders in that group.<P>So- the factory parts books confirm that your parts are for a 1953 GM car and were originally distributed thru Oldsmobile Division Service Parts.

Tetraethyl lead (TEL) lubricates and cushions valve seats. It has the added benefit of increasing octane and allowing higher compression ratios. Pure and uncut, it's also nasty poisonous stuff.<P>TEL formulations are available for those who don't mind the risks and hazards associated with handling it . Rubber gloves and goggles at a bare minimum and thorough washup after you're done.<P>The 54 Olds engine probably doesn't need TEL for octane as the compression was below 9.0:1. Most older engines can be safely run on 91-94 octane unleaded fuel as long as they're not really horsed around too hard. You might get into some exhaust valve recession problems if you really dog the car a lot. The heads can be reworked with hardened valve seats which will eliminate valve recession when that time comes. If you hear obvious detonation under normal load, then you need to 1)find better fuel, 2)tune the engine properly or 3)decarbon it.<P>In the meantime, Marvel Mystery Oil or something similar added to gas tank will provide SOME valve lubrication. Not a lot as it tends to burn off at high combustion temps (aggravated by current oxygenate gasoline which burns lean, creating more heat and possible detonation) but enough to stave off problems.<P>But I can vouch for better performance and cooler operating temps in a 64 394 and 69 455 when they get some 110 octane fuel or even TEL supplement in the tank. Then they run like they were meant to run, and smell so good behind them! leaving the smell of burnt high octane fuel in their wake...

Me? Diss? Sho' ya right! Didn't catch the handle off the bat, did Britt ever get you those wiring plugs you were trying to find?<P>I figured they'd have some VOC emissions law in place regulating spray paint, knew there was an 18-older law to buy it. VA has a law against spraying paint in a retail store, but you go by the touchup paint rack and it's every color in it.<P>If you can find a 1971 GM paint chip chart the interior paint codes should be on it. A good paint supply might still have them laying around somewhere.

Look thru Hemmings Motor News. You'll find a bunch of literature vendors who will have the factory shop manuals you want. Don't know about Buick and GS, but the 442 crowd have driven the price of the early 70s Olds manuals thru the roof. $40-50 for a very nice one is fair.<P>Have you checked with a custom wheel shop? Thye should be able to fit your car.

Corky Coker himself is on this board every so often. I'm sure he'd be interested to know that his peons are trying to convince potential customers that no one is collecting the cars they want tires for.<P>I ran into the same thing trying to find an 8.85-15 tire for my Toronado. Finally said the hell with it and put on a set of Goodrich T/A radials. The factory documents indicate the BFG Police Pursuit Radial in size 225/75R15 was optional on Toronado 1967-70, and the T/A is a direct descendant of that tire. I lost the whitewall, but no big deal. They were optional way back when anyway.<P>Actually, a 3/4"- 1" whitewall would be correct for a 1967 GM car. The dual white pinstripe came out around 1970 as best I remember, then by 72 there were triple white stripe tires.<P>L78 will correspond to a 235/75 radial tire profile or 9.00. J78 is 8.85 with no direct metric radial crossreference. H78 would be 8.45 or 8.50, or 225/75.<P>I think Coker needs to start making some large 14" tires. Too many 1957-70 GM cars use them. The market is there.

Year and series? If you can furnish a paint code, some paint jobbers can make you a spraybomb matched to the original color formula. Very handy!<P>Now I see you're in California. I'm sure they have some ridiculous law in place prohibiting making such things or allowing the general public to use it.

Asked Waldron about duplicating the chambered exhaust system on my 1964 Oldsmobile Starfire and his reply was that I didn't need those. Well, dammit, that's the way it came, and that's the way I want it! Had better luck with a local shop who made them up using Walker Turbo-Tube chambered sections.<P>It irks me when someone tries to sell me something different from what I asked them for, especially when they advertise they do the job right.

See Oldsmobile DF. The Olds group # is 14.475 so they were originally in the Olds service parts system. My experience is that Olds tends to break out their service publications a little farther than the other GM divisions.

From the 1962 Oldsmobile Body Parts Catalog- 4615149 fits 1953 all convertible and takes two. Doesn't list it fitting any other year or Olds application, though it would probably fit Buicks and possibly Cad and the larger Pontiacs.

The 67-78 axles are a bolt-in for 66. Once in a while you may find a pass side without the torsional damper, but I've noticed no difference in my 69 since installing one of those.<P>Replacing axles would be an expensive way to go, but it beats hell out of trying to find unobtainium CV boots, when the later design fits and functions perfectly well.

I've never known GM to use a gasket behind a script. They used them behind side marker lights, or door and trunk handles and locks.

The fear of a bumper jack collapse is why I have bought inexpensive small 2-ton hydraulic floor jacks for all the cars. Sears has them on sale every so often complete with molded plastic storage case. That and folding wheel chocks give me ever more peace of mind in event of a roadside tire change. I keep a short length of 1x4 plank with the jack to give it a reasonably solid surface to bear on- soft dirt or gravel don't work too well. <P>Also learned long ago to keep an 18" breaker bar and appropriate 6 point socket in the trunk. I never could break a lugnut loose with a jack handle.